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Alec

Replace control arm or just rubber mountings?

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Hi all,

 

Another question for the experts: The flanges on my control arms are bent and I'm not sure if I should replace the entire arm or if I can just replace the rubber mountings? The angle of the arm itself looks okay and appears to be just the flanges, but I can't make out the exact angle that the arm should be from images/diagrams online. 

 

Here's some photos showing the arms:

 

Photo backup: https://goo.gl/photos/S3c8SfB2pZmRdQjP9

post-47854-0-30427500-1458504539_thumb.j

post-47854-0-70888400-1458504542_thumb.j

post-47854-0-80467200-1458504547_thumb.j

post-47854-0-86208000-1458504551_thumb.j

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Some maintenance jobs I calculate by cost/effort. While bushings are independantly available, unless you are going poly, control arms are sold with bushings.

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I think they should be straight in your side view (bottom two photos).  Those are seriously bent.  They probably can be straightened, but I think even I would go with new arms.

 

Harold

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I messed mine up drilling the rivets for the ball joints out. At $137.50 each they aren't cheap, but you definitely want them to be right right shape or your alignment and steering will never be quite right.

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(edited)

Price isn't that bad.  Discounted online dealer price is around $96.  WallothNesch has them for about $82, but I bet it is about $40 for shipping.  Includes bushings, but no ball joints.

 

I rebuilt mine with new bushings and ball joints.  They were a bit banana shaped, as well as having some twist.  A little work with a press, and a long bar and a vise to untwist.  I then sandblasted them and had them powder coated.  Yours can probably be salvaged, but it depends on whether you value your time or not. 

 

Oh, one more thing.  The left and right are identical.  So clearly yours are bent.

 

Harold

Edited by harold

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Those are not control arms any more!  They're raw material for making a Kia.

 

t

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Bite the bullet and buy complete new arms (that come with new bushings) then install new ball joints.  Those look like the old style control arms.

Jim is sooooo right.  You can't use those.  Get the new ball joint as well.  How are the bearings?  That is also cheap insurance.

 

cheers,

 

Michael

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I got the new control arms. I tried installing them but when I tighten the nuts and 108 foot pounds of torque that the Chilton's manual recommends, I get no up or down movement in the control arm.

 

If I remember, before there was actually good up and down movement when the bolt was still tightened. Should it be movable by hand?

IMG_20160528_201015.jpg

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 i'm almost certain that you should not tighten your suspension on jack stands but rather with the tires on the ground so that they are torqued in the running condition.  otherwise you will unnecessarily shorten the life of the rubber bushings.  i typically have my car sitting on four cinder blocks so i can get clearance to get underneath.  if you want to get really anal, put someone in the driver's seat as well.

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5 hours ago, thetwentyone said:

I got the new control arms. I tried installing them but when I tighten the nuts and 108 foot pounds of torque that the Chilton's manual recommends, I get no up or down movement in the control arm.

 

If I remember, before there was actually good up and down movement when the bolt was still tightened. Should it be movable by hand?

IMG_20160528_201015.jpg

 

What piece of literature does this excerpt come from? Looks like I need to buy it. 

 

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Only snug the large bolt and radius arm nut while the car is off the ground (full suspension droop).  Install the wheels, lower the car, roll it around to settle the suspension then tighten the hardware. I drove my car up on ramps to get some clearance.

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What piece of literature does this excerpt come from? Looks like I need to buy it. 

 

That's the Haynes manual.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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