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1976 CA Car - Worth it or gutless?


silasmoon

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  I bought a completely original emissions/paint 1976 car in CA and had it shipped to WA.  It's even an Automatic and I still really enjoy the car for what it is.   I took the advice to find the cleanest car in my budget.  I say go for it!  Like Marshall noted -  It will still bring a smile to your face.

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Edited by Vintagedavid
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Step 3: Blunttech, (repeat).

 

I checked under the car, and only saw the most minute of rust in the floor board.
 

 

In my limited experience, I have learned that floors rust from the inside out and that a lot of insight can be gained by pulling up the carpet.  When I bought my car it was sold with "one small hole on the driver's side floor." What that really meant was that I would be welding new metal across the front of both floor pans.  There is also a lot to be learned by pulling the back seat out.  I found enough rust there to warrant taking the bulkhead beneath the seat out.  I did not see all that coming, but I would still buy the car, knowing what I know now.  However, I do not yet know what I will be in for when I cut into the rockers.  

 

Mine was an impulse buy.  Luckily I currently have a shop with some tools.  Good that you are doing the research.  As is so often said, RUST should be the deciding factor.  If it is not rusty and everything checks out go for it. (step 1) Then put your belongings in the trunk and move north to Oregon, or Washington; like everybody else.  (Step 4)   :)

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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In my limited experience, I have learned that floors rust from the inside out and that a lot of insight can be gained by pulling up the carpet...   There is also a lot to be learned by pulling the back seat out. 

 

So I agree that I really wanted to check the floor pans and backseat, but realistically how are you folks doing this when you go look at a car? A lot of 2002 owners (or anyone selling their used car) aren't really ready for me to say, "Hey let's rip up your carpet and remove your entire back seat really quick." Is there any easy way to get down to bare metal for inspection that I am missing that wont trash the owners car in the process? Thanks for all the help everybody! :D

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any 2002 owner selling a car and not trying to hide something would be more than happy to lift up the carpet section and pop the back seat out.  only takes a couple of minutes and does not cause damage. if the seller won't do that, run away.

 

i wouldn't buy a car i couldn't inspect to that detail.  including putting it on a lift to tap all the key metal parts with a hammer to check for painted over rust.

2xM3

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If you like it buy it, re-establish residency of the car in a non smog county. Never worry about smogging again. Rip the anti emission devices out, bag and stash them if or when you want to sell the vehicle in CA. It's up to individual counties whether to smog check or not. It's NOT a State law. Be sure to check the "would you like to keep your mailing address the same?" box on the change of residency form so you get your tags in the mail. You can just make up an address if you want. They will not check. The DMV computer goes by zip code to determine whether or not to send you a letter demanding you to get your vehicle tested. The whole "clean air" thing is not about clean air at all. It's about revenue.

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Were I you, living in California, I'd find a 75 or earlier car so I wouldn't have that emission inspection-by a state agency with an avowed goal of getting all those old cars off the road--hanging over my head every two years.  

 

Someone outside CA would love to have that '76, and it'll escape the CA  smog inspections.

 

IMHO

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I was hoping you guys could drop some knowledge on me to prevent me from making a regrettable purchase. I am genuinely curious how you peel up the carpet from the floor boards without damaging it. I am looking into how to remove the back-seat (two hinges and then push up and back). In terms of getting it onto a lift that might be a bit trickier in the neighborhood. He has the original BMW jack, do you think that would suffice for shining a flashlight under the car? 
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It is a little harder to get behind the one piece carpet found in a late car.  

Mine came with a one foot rip widthwise behind the pedal box.  (did I look/care at the time? no)

There are tar mats stuck to the floor under the carpet and water can wick under them and encourage rust.

Pulling up carpet does not let you see under the mats, but it does give you some info.

The pinch welt at the front edge of the driver's door is easy to pull off, to release the carpet, but that vinyl edge on the carpet is delicate.

 

In my car, I see evidence of carpet glue on the sheet metal, but mine was no longer stuck to it... nor is it now, since I am not done under there.

 

I can understand why an owner might not want strangers pulling their car apart.

The hammer trick from below should suffice. 

 

The back seat bottom lifts out pretty easily, but you do have to be careful of the vinyl panels on the sides... and stuff.

One screw in the middle of the bottom of the seat back, irrc?? and it lifts straight up.  Most problems will appear under the bottom pad, or there may be evidence under it telling you to look above it as well.

 

I am just encouraging a thorough going over, because I neglected that and found a lot of surprises.

 

That jack might tell you something about the condition of the rockers.  NO WAY my rockers are going to see a factory jack.  DO NOT crawl under while using the jack.

 

Is this an emergency purchase?  How about a ppi?  It sounds like there is room in your budget.   

 

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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I am just encouraging a thorough going over, because I neglected that and found a lot of surprises. That jack might tell you something about the condition of the rockers.  NO WAY my rockers are going to see a factory jack.  DO NOT crawl under while using the jack. Is this an emergency purchase?  How about a ppi?  It sounds like there is room in your budget.   

No I appreciate the advice. I am looking up nearby auto-shops to see if they'd throw it on the stand for a fee (any suggestions what to offer?). Are the original factory jacks bad news? I am going to really try to get the car off the ground when I go look at it again soon (battery was dead today). Not an emergency purchase and not sure what a PPI is? My original budget was $7k, but figured I needed to spend $10k to get a solid car. Found this one today for $5500, and I thought it was too good to pass up on - plus I was the first guy on the scene so I get dibs. 

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I guess the ultimate question is - how common are square 2002's in this condition for the price point in the most expensive city in the US? If the folks on here can assuredly say - you can find an excellent condition 2002 in the Bay Area for around $6k then I could pass. It's just that I got that 2002-itis you know?

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