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arminyack

The IE Oil Pan Baffle and Oil level dipstick....this cant be happening!

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So I finally located my oil dipstick last night....It went missing quite a while ago. I knew it would turn up eventually, and sure enough, I found it had fallen back behind my workbench, and had gotten lodged between the concrete foundation an old engine block I had underneath. So I cleaned it up, and put it in the the newly assembled and installed engine! Then this happened:

 

temporary_zpsboj9g6j4.jpg

 

When I shoved it in...I got a solid "bonk" of the end of it hitting something solid. That's as far as it goes in. My thinking so far....its hitting the IE oil pan baffle I installed! Has anyone else had this trouble? I know I got the thing lined up and welded in correctly. I do have an earlier car with the bolt-on dipstick mounting plate....maybe it's not designed for it. if that's the case well then $%^&&* me. The amount of work I have ahead of me just to deal with this I really don't want to think about. Someone tell me I am wrong, or there is an easy fix for this??!!

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The easy fix is to ignore the oil level. Oil is one of the 3 main liquids people claim are necessary for cars but that no one can point to scientific studies that indicate that they are (the other two being coolant and gasoline).

 

It does seem to be a problem that others have experienced with various baffles though

 

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=site%3Abmw2002faq.com%20ie%20oil%20baffle%20dip

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Pull oil pan, drill hole in baffle, replace oil pan.

I have a bolt on dipstick as well. I am able to twist the dipstick around so that it sits correctly. So, play with it a bit, and maybe it will fit.

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"test before final assembly"

 

Sorry.

 

t

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(edited)

The problem is that there is a hole in the baffle, but it is in the wrong place for some models. TEP totally screwed up on this one.  I should have double checked as Toby notes.

Edited by nbcbird

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(edited)

If you ever have to drill through stainless steel, get a spray bottle, and fill it with with. Spray the bit, while you're drilling. Just keep misting it with the water. It will save you TONS of drill bits, an it will drill WAY faster. Sounds kinda silly., try it, you will not be disappointed 

Edited by Doug Riparetti

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Good tip.  Protect the drill tip, by keeping it cool.

 

 

It's not an easy task to drill the hole in stainless even with the oil pan removed.

 

 

 

One tip I learned about drilling stainless is to keep it drilling, as in, apply pressure on the drill.

Do not let it spin in contact without cutting, or it can work harden the stainless.

The next thing you know, your drill bit starts to glow... ask me how I know. 

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Your dipstick tube looks different from any I've seen.  The early cars used a cast aluminum base (some of which incorporated the bracket for the air pump) with a steel tube pressed in.  Later cars used a short tube that's simply pressed into the block with a rubber hose connecting that tube with another section of tube that's held in place by the hose and a bracket at its upper end that's bolted to the intake manifold.  They use different dipsticks:  early ones had red painted ends, later ones, yellow.

 

Yours appears to be a steel plate with a tube welded to it.   Check page 11-44 in the factory parts book:  your dipstick tube looks like item 1 in the illustration, which is for non-US cars.  The multi-part tube with a gland nut that screws into the block (items 2, 3 8 and 9) are shown as USA (only) parts.  

 

The dipstick in your picture appears to be the type that's used on the early cars; it has a cap on the end to seal it against the dipstick tube.  Later cars' dipsticks have a corrugated rubber seal that moulded to the upper end of the dipstick to seal it in its tube.  So you may well have the incorrect dipstick for your tube.  Might be worth borrowing a dipstick from a friend who has the type with the rubber seal just to see if it fits properly before dropping the pan...

 

mike 

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make sure it won't go in with a turn and a wiggle. bought my engine with an unknown baffle already installed and the dip stick catches it sometimes, but does go in. 

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(edited)

Pic shows baffle with original hole and white dot for correct placement of hole for a '71. It is not a process of just using a small drill bit. Just to clear up any confusion--the manufacturer of my baffle was TEP not IE. Did IE also mis-locate the hole in their design?

post-36158-0-44074900-1452380108.jpg

Edited by nbcbird

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Interesting thread.  Definitely test before assembly....I don't know enough about the details of what is being sold and what "instructions" come with....BUT I would say that, if it were me selling the part I would have some sort of template that went with the part (if need be) so that the part could be lined up in the pan correctly - every time, even for the guy/gal welder that has never even heard of a BMW .... and that the hole would be there for the oil dipstick (with a little "extra" clearance).... an extra 1/8" or even 1/4" on the OD isn't going to matter.  I would probably tell them again, double check to make sure everything lines up and the dipstick goes all the way down.   I would be pissed too to have to pull a motor back out to fix this.  Honestly it seems somewhat of a waste anyway for anything other than a track/autocross car which this might be, I would guess the perceived gain for anything other than that is just that (perceived).  I haven't ever purchased anything from Ireland, they do a great job of support o2 folks and many others.  Seems like an easy fix on their end for this one.

 

www.alpinabmw2002.com

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Update!  I removed the engine/subframe assy from the car, then lifted the engine from the subframe. I then dipped the very tip of the oil dipstick into some red paint, and shoved it back in, and bottomed as to get a nice red paint mark on the baffle. Once I took off the oil pan, this is what I saw:

 

temporary_zpsienmdtxa.jpg

 

REALLY?! I twisted and turned the dipstick to try and get it to shove all the way in; no dice. It was THIS close. I simply took my angle grinder, and ground a slot in. I spent more time cleaning the oil pan after the grinding then the actually grind job itself. Oh well....the engine is now back on the subframe, to be lifted into the car tomorrow.

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