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Help! Engine screams and shuts off!


joshinthebox

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Hey fellow 2002ers!

I've been driving my 74 2002 for months without a problem. On cold start ups I usually aid the engine by holding the gas down about 20% and then keep it at 2000rpm until engine is warm enough to idle easy on its own.

This morning I attempted the same, however after the engine turned on after a minute the engine squealed and shut off. It seems its not a slipping belt, and has gotta be internal. Oil level is fine however the oil light has always been on until the engine warms up a little.

The engine will restart and run above 2200 rpm however any lower I get the squeak and violent shut off.

I've tried research but have come up with nothing so far.

Thanks for any and all help.

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Rod or crank bearing? Oil pump nut come undone? When you change the oil do you have any metal in it?

 

Others may be able to help more accurately however any violent stop is never a good thing. Ever. 

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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Unless there are mechanical problems internal to the engine, the description seems to indicate you might be located is a cold climate with heavier oil than necessary with the delay of oil pressure.  The squeal doesn't sound good and there may not be any oil pumping and so the metal to metal squeal.  If so, it's off with the pan and an oil pump/connecting rod bearing inspection.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Rod or crank bearing? Oil pump nut come undone? When you change the oil do you have any metal in it?

 

Others may be able to help more accurately however any violent stop is never a good thing. Ever. 

I will check the oil in 2 days when the e30s 5 lug swap is done and the garage is clear! Im thinking its a cam or crank bearing as this is my logic: Above 2200rpm the engine is putting enough torgue on the bearing to turn the cam or crank and push past its resistance but ender 2200 rpm the resistance of the bearing is too large resulting everything coming to a screeching halt.

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Unless there are mechanical problems internal to the engine, the description seems to indicate you might be located is a cold climate with heavier oil than necessary with the delay of oil pressure.  The squeal doesn't sound good and there may not be any oil pumping and so the metal to metal squeal.  If so, it's off with the pan and an oil pump/connecting rod bearing inspection.

Im actually in Fresno CA. its been freezing during the nights but other than that it is pretty warm here in comparison to other places. Im running a pretty lightweight oil too in leu of the weather conditions here in the California valley. Looks like I will be pulling apart the entire engine soon anyways. Or I need to find an s50 to swap into my e30 and do the m20 swap :P

thanks for taking the time!

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You could just check the oil to see if there are metal filings in it --or if you have a magnet on the oil plug that'll tell you as well. 

 

Before you pull the whole motor you can drop the oil pan and have a look. I'd tend to lean towards bottom end as anything with enough force/resistance on the cam to grind your motor to a halt would do some pretty nasty things to your cam... Crank on the other hand... 

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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  • 3 months later...

Sorry for the late reply, I've been busy with work and school. I have the engine out and the car apart. Now I just gotta figure out some longer bolts to put the engine on the stand, and then completely apart it comes. Ive decided to do a full rebuild on it, possibly even upgrading to I.E. s14 internals and making that work with my 36carb until I can figure out a m10 MS EFI system!

Im still assuming its the crank or cam bearing that maybe shifter but I will update this as soon as I know!

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This doesn't address your car's current issue but it does speak to your past cold-weather procedure.  If you don't take the EFI route, the carb route (generally) includes a choke that should obviate the need to hold the gas pedal until the car warms up.  I don't know if your carb currently has an automatic water choke, an automatic electric choke, or a manual choke.  But each of them is designed to facilitate cold-weather starts that don't require your foot on the accelerator!

 

If you have the stock Solex in your '74, you have an automatic water choke.  You press the gas pedal to the floor before your start the car to activate the choke.  Don't mean to insult you if you're familiar with carbed cars, but lots of people today have grown up in the fuel injected era!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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