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Nose/Front Panel removal?


winstontj

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I searched. Even looked through a few project blogs. 

 

The '71 car has had a late model nose put on it at some point. Not sure if that makes a difference in removing it. I see welds at the frame rail, on the side of the inner fender (way up top) and then what looks to be no welds and glue/seam sealer going down the frame rail/engine compartment. 

 

What exactly is supposed to happen around the area where the bumpers attach?

 

Anything else I need to know or does the thing just pop off the front of the car?

 

Thanks. 

 

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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The nose floats around the bumper holes, both early and late.  No attachment but what you found under the rails.

 

Usually what happens is you start taking it off and find out what you've missed as you go.

 

Nope, it's not too hard.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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If you just want to return the car to the roundie front grille look, there are some posts on how to weld in additional metal (like from a roundie nose that's all rusted out at the lower edge) around the grille openings (especially the center one) so that roundie aluminum grilles will fit properly.  

 

If your squarelight nose is all rusted out, though, that's another story...

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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If you just want to return the car to the roundie front grille look, there are some posts on how to weld in additional metal (like from a roundie nose that's all rusted out at the lower edge) around the grille openings (especially the center one) so that roundie aluminum grilles will fit properly.  

 

If your squarelight nose is all rusted out, though, that's another story...

 

mike

 

Thanks Mike,

The current nose is a diving board bumper nose (late model US nose) and I'd like to return it to a proper '71 nose. I'm having a hard time learning exactly what the differences are (other than the square bumper holes vs. euro bumper holes) between the early and late model noses. 

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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I heard that late model noses are NLA however early model noses are still available however I can't find anything online for a '71 nose (new). I also realize these things aren't cheap so I'd probably be looking at a good used nose vs. new/NOS.

 

If the early model grills and kidneys are different that's all I needed to hear. I'll be swapping it out so the car is a correct '71.

 

Thanks esty

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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Yeah, it's significant sheet- metal surgery to change the grilles between noses. 

I'd say it's roughly the same amount of work either way, but you'll be a lot happier-

and have a better result- if you swap the whole panel.

And if you seal the new nose up better than the factory, it'll last a LOT longer, too,

along the bottom seam.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Thanks Toby. Nose is off now anyway so too late to turn back. Time to source a '71 nose panel. 

 

When you say "along the bottom seam" I assume you mean inside where all the nuts and washers get stuck when they drop down in there? Do you do anything to the water drain openings or just the seams? Thx. 

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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Yes, it's hard to seal the seam, but if you don't, it traps water in itself like crazy,

and rusts from the inside out.  The factory noses lasted 5-7 years in non- dry

climates.

 

I used a long stiff hose on a caulk gun with seam sealer, and various implements

to try to smooth it over.  Then opened the drains up again...

 

You'll see when you get to it. 

hth

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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