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jdeitch

Headlight basics: An enlightening discussion

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Nice writeup...couple of suggestions:

 

when unplugging your old sealed beam units that have been on the car for the past 35 years, it's often easier to remove the outer headlight retainer ring and pull the sealed beam out of its housing a few inches--there's enough slack in the wiring harness to permit that.  Gives you more wiggle room to persuade the connector off.  A little penetrating oil will help too if it's really corroded.

 

If your retainer ring screws are all rusty and nasty, suggest replacing 'em with stainless steel screws:  they're M4 x .7 and are 6mm long.  Your local hardware store probably has 'em.

 

A comment on high powered bulbs--roundies not only don't have relays for the headlights, the early 6 fuse cars don't even have 'em fused.  12 fuse roundies have fuses for the low beams, but not the high beams.  So be careful if you're adding driving or fog lights to these cars; you must use a relay.

 

And...where did you get the LED headlight bulbs?  Haven't seen any meant for Euro headlights.

 

cheers

mike

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One suggestion - you should "bench test" the various setups, directing the beam at a wide, white wall and then take pictures of the output in the same exact conditions using the same focus, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. You may find that the LED bulbs scatter just as much light as the HID variants.

 

I do like the write up though and yes - HIDs in reflector housings designed for Halogen bulbs are a no-go as you mentioned.

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Nice writeup...couple of suggestions:

 

when unplugging your old sealed beam units that have been on the car for the past 35 years, it's often easier to remove the outer headlight retainer ring and pull the sealed beam out of its housing a few inches--there's enough slack in the wiring harness to permit that.  Gives you more wiggle room to persuade the connector off.  A little penetrating oil will help too if it's really corroded.

 

If your retainer ring screws are all rusty and nasty, suggest replacing 'em with stainless steel screws:  they're M4 x .7 and are 6mm long.  Your local hardware store probably has 'em.

 

A comment on high powered bulbs--roundies not only don't have relays for the headlights, the early 6 fuse cars don't even have 'em fused.  12 fuse roundies have fuses for the low beams, but not the high beams.  So be careful if you're adding driving or fog lights to these cars; you must use a relay.

 

And...where did you get the LED headlight bulbs?  Haven't seen any meant for Euro headlights.

 

cheers

mike

Here is the link to the post I made about the LED headlight upgrade:  http://rato2e.blogspot.com/2015/11/led-headlight-upgrade.html

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Nice writeup...couple of suggestions:

 

when unplugging your old sealed beam units that have been on the car for the past 35 years, it's often easier to remove the outer headlight retainer ring and pull the sealed beam out of its housing a few inches--there's enough slack in the wiring harness to permit that.  Gives you more wiggle room to persuade the connector off.  A little penetrating oil will help too if it's really corroded.

 

If your retainer ring screws are all rusty and nasty, suggest replacing 'em with stainless steel screws:  they're M4 x .7 and are 6mm long.  Your local hardware store probably has 'em.

 

A comment on high powered bulbs--roundies not only don't have relays for the headlights, the early 6 fuse cars don't even have 'em fused.  12 fuse roundies have fuses for the low beams, but not the high beams.  So be careful if you're adding driving or fog lights to these cars; you must use a relay.

 

And...where did you get the LED headlight bulbs?  Haven't seen any meant for Euro headlights.

 

cheers

mike

Thanks for sharing your experience.  

 

I  would really appreciate it if you would add these comments to the blog itself.  Comments/feedback make the blog better for everyone.

Edited by jdeitch

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"(remember not to touch the bulb with your bear hands)"

 

...."bear" hands?  :)

 

again, nice write up.  Those LED bulbs appear to be the shizzle...especially since I go through OSRAM lamps like oreos...

 

Ed

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Definitely want to relay those headlamps. It will eliminate a huge voltage drop at the bulb and they will be much brighter! Not to mention the lighter load on your 40 year old wiring harness. I have converted many old European cars over the years and usually wire in two relays. One for low beam and another for high as I will run a slighter higher wattage German h1 or h4 bulbs. You should also increase the gauge of wiring from the relays/power source to the headlamps. In essence, the stock wiring would just be used from the switch to trigger the relays. With patience it can be done without any cutting of the factory harness.

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Definitely want to relay those headlamps. It will eliminate a huge voltage drop at the bulb and they will be much brighter! Not to mention the lighter load on your 40 year old wiring harness. I have converted many old European cars over the years and usually wire in two relays. One for low beam and another for high as I will run a slighter higher wattage German h1 or h4 bulbs. You should also increase the gauge of wiring from the relays/power source to the headlamps. In essence, the stock wiring would just be used from the switch to trigger the relays. With patience it can be done without any cutting of the factory harness.

 

Yes, and rallylights (Susquehanna) has a plug and play kit just for that. http://www.rallylights.com/hl282-upgraded-headlamp-wiring-harness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html

 

No cutting.

 

OTOH, what's the amp draw of the LED's? :)

 

jdeitch, can you link us to the specific bulbs you bought off ebay?

 

Cheers,

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Not sure of those particular LED's. There are multiple 7" LED headlights for sale on Amazon and Ebay. Thank goodness there are so many Jeeps and Harleys out there so we can benefit. 

 

If you can tolerate some of the Darth Vader looking lenses, wattage of some of the complete PAR bulb replacements (sealed units) run between 30 watts to 75 watts max. If you do some research will will notice some are more efficient than others, higher wattage does not necessarily mean higher lumen output. With some, you can get pretty good output with only 30  to 40 watt draw on high beams. Most are plug and play, and you don't need the funky CANBUS harness attachments that come with them. 

 

Also be aware a good number of them are not DOT approved for road use. The prices are much less stratospheric than they used to be. Some are now going for about $150 a pair on Ebay. 

 

Cheers. 

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Instead of that blog, how about putting the info in a tutorial on this site, comments could be added and contribute to the content.

The FAQ is a awesome reference tool and a great community. I am a regular contributor.

For this car project I wanted something that I could call my own and be wholly responsible for the content. I hope you can appreciate this as I respect your opinion.

FYI - Comments CAN be added on the blog.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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