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phano

Greetings from a newbie

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Hi all. i recently purchased a 1973 2002 from a forum member. He was pretty forthcoming with all of the issues that the car currently has. Hopefully I can tackle as much as possible on my own and outsource some of the things that will have me way over my head. I'm hoping to get the small electrical issues and brake issues sorted ASAP and move on to more mechanical problems prior to any cosmetic issues.  I've already learned tons from this forum and appreciate all of the guidance and knowledge that you all have. Any guidance on the to do list would be awesome. Especially the sticky brake issue. This weekend I'll take a shot at replacing the E-brake cable. 

 

To Do's

E-brake

Connect horn

Figure out short in hazard lights 

Replace front headlight

Fix stop light

Repair sticking brake pedal-may have been source of stop light problem as one of the stop lenses was melted; it looks like a bulb remained on and caused this.

Repair wipers and wash fluid motor

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Cheers

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/174082-1973-bmw-2002-good-driving-project/

 

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I didn't notice the shock tower when the trunk was open. Is it running and idling smoother?

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I didn't notice the shock tower when the trunk was open. Is it running and idling smoother?

It runs smooth and I haven't noticed any issues when idling. Are you familiar with this particular car?

 

My biggest worry is getting this sticking brake figured out since I suspect it is the cause of my stop light issue.

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Your brake light problem is the use of an improper bulb. I've seen it way to often.

When testing the lights, the person helping me told me that all of the lights came  on when the car was in reverse. Is that normal w this particular problem? I'll also be taking a look at the stop light switch later on to see if that needs any adjusting. I'll report back later.

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If your brake lights aren't working, check the switch first...it's right atop the brake pedal linkage under the hood, just aft of the brake booster--a little pushbutton with two wires attached.  They work on the same principle as the switches on the door edges that turn the interior lights on and off.  They also have a habit of sticking when the car isn't driven for awhile, so when you step on the brakes, the little plunger doesn't pop out as it should.  Either that or it's misadjusted so the plunger can't come out.  If the plunger is stuck, lubricate it with a little WD40, and using a screwdriver blade push it in and then let it snap out.  Do this several times and it should free up. If not, new ones are cheap!

 

If you want to try repairing your windshield washer pump motor, I did a column on repairing them some years ago.  Send me an IM with your e-mail address (so I can attach the column) and I'll send it off to you.  

 

with your car, I think Job One should be repairing that rear inner wheel arch.  It aint' gonna heal itself, and if allowed to get much bigger (and it'll start stress cracking along the edges) it's gonna compromise your car's structural integrity.  

 

Anyway, welcome to the '02 fraternity/sorority.  Lotsa knowledgeable folks here who are happy to help.  But you already know that!

 

cheers

mike

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This is a minor detail, but the extra ground wire someone added to your battery connection looks problematic.

There is nothing to clamp it down when placed in that gap, so you might want to move it out to the side, under the nut.

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Wow! Thank you all for the great advice and welcoming spirit.

Mike, I will send you my email information so that I can get the tutorial for the washer repair.

76mintgrun02- good catch. Thank you so much. I'm a little overwhelmed when it comes to anything re the electrical system. Just yesterday, the battery needed a jump in order for me to get the car started and same today. I'm taking it to get tested in a couple of hours. Hopefully it's just a bad battery and not the alternator or something sucking power from the car that I just don't know about. Now re the extra ground wire, exactly what should I do to remedy the issue? Which nut are you referring to move it under?

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I was referring to the nut on the clamp itself.

 

Whenever I have battery trouble, the first thing I check are the connections at the battery terminals.

It is good to use a little baking soda and water to neutralize any acid residue while you are at it.

Clean the posts and clamps with scotch brite, or some fine sandpaper as well.

 

Be gentle when removing and reinstalling the connections.  If you pry up, or hammer them back on, you can break the seal where the posts meet the plastic and cause it to leak there.  (thanks Jimk for that tip).

 

There is a test you can do to tell if you have something draining your battery.

You need a test lamp, or a 12v bulb/socket... or can get creative with a bulb and a couple of wires if need be.

While you are cleaning your terminals, reconnect the negative cable, but not the positive.

Connect one of your test light wires to the disconnected positive cable and the other to the positive post on the battery.

If the light comes on, there is a short somewhere between a positive wire and ground.

You can then isolate which circuit it is on, by removing fuses one by one until the light goes out and that will be the one with a problem.

 

Side note:

I did this test on my car (subaru), my girlfriend's car and another friend's car recently, because we all have problems with the battery going dead.  Funny thing is, we are all pulling one fuse now when not using the car, until we narrow down the problem.  I am pretty sure mine was a bare wire in one of the door/dome light switches, which I fixed, but I have not put the fuse back to be sure.  It is funny how the definition of 'fixed' is somewhat flexible around here.  

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