electrical and ignition Alternator harness & alternator

[Tom1]

One of my wires on the alternator plug broke. Is there anyway to remove the spades from the plug or do I cut all three wires and connect them separately now? After pulling the alternator I noticed the bushings are toast and when I spin the pulley the bearings squeak but there is no play in them. Is the alternator garbage or Is it possible to oil/ regrease the bearings and get new bushings? Thanks.

[omarcenaro]

I don't know about the bearings but you can get new bushings. The rubber ones become like gummy bears eventually and could cause premature failure of the alternator. I got the red Urethane bushing so it will last longer from www.bavauto.com about $5 dollars per and you will need 2 per part number.

Part number 11721261404 Split bushing for Alternator Bracket and Air Pump Adjusting Bracket

Part number 12311268447 Alternator Bushing 20mm length

Part number 12311268449 Alternator Bushing 8mm length

Here is a pic of the bushings on my alternator. Oh, put them in hot water first to soften them and it will make it easier to install.

[wegweiser]

You can get *new* female spade connectors from BMW - that *HAVE* the little spine on them, so they click and lock in to the plastic connector block (as used on the alternator and voltage regulator) Part number for the terminal connector is 61 13 8 608 021. Once you have the new connectors, you'll see the tiny tab that locks them in the connector block. Just use a tiny jeweler's screwdriver and depress the spine on the old one, to slip it out of the connector block, backwards. 

 

Now... with that said.... I'd recommend unwrapping the entire alternator harness (18"-24" of it, at least) carefully, and looking for other areas about to break or fail. If the wire is too corroded to solder on new terminal connectors, it might be time to replace the wires, themselves. Ask me how I know!

 

The bearings are easily obtained from auto parts stores. Just use the DIN number as shown in BMW parts literature. It translates to a standardized metric bearing measurement. Make sure to get SEALED bearings. The hard part is taking the alternator apart without damaging anything else inside. I let a local electrical rebuilder guru do mine. Cost me $50, and I supplied the $19 bearings. In your case, I wouldn't worry too much about the noise (or the hassle of getting a correct alternator - there are supply problems with those at Bosch, right now), unless it gets louder. 

 

On a tii, those wires get oil on them with oil changes and timing cover seepage.... they live a rough life.

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2001-EUR-11_1974_114_BMW_1502&diagId=61_1123#61138608021

Edited September 30, 2015 by wegweiser

[JohnS]

Here's some good pics of those spade type connectors with the tabs:

 

https://www.belmetric.com/electrical-connectors-noninsulated-connectors-c-19_164_200.html?zenid=1g1842vf0t6msl3m44814mdlr7

[Tom1]

Thanks for all the info and part numbers. I got the terminal out of the plug with some needle nose pliers and jewelers screwdriver.  I had to really pull though. 

[Buckeye]

Recently replaced Alternator bearings. I got following bearings from NAPA.

SKF - 6203-2ZJ

SKF - 6201-2RSJ

They are about $22 each. Made in Argentina. Alternative brand at lower price were available, but I believe in you get what you pay for

 

Edit: Replaced bearings in my spare alternator. This time I used the following bearings:

NACHI - 6201ZZE Shielded C3

NACHI - 6203ZZE Shielded C3

Edited April 6, 2017 by Buckeye

[Tom1]

Well I just went the dealership and got a quote of $142 plus tax for the bushings alone.  They said the terminal connector is NLA.  Going to hit NAPA tomorrow.

[wegweiser]

The plastic terminal BLOCK might be NLA, but I pretty much guarantee the terminal metal connectors are still available. Maybe your parts guy would rather take the commission on the $3200 sale he has on hold, than look up 40yr old $0.50 electrical parts.

 

And $142 for 4 bushings? Do they come with a nice romantic dinner? Do they at least put a condom on, before selling them to you, for that price?

 

Check out blunt tech.com  - Steve will get you what you need. 

[tii74]

Helpful post. It looks like terminal connector is 61 13 8 608 021 is now NLA. There may be other sources.

 

How do you get the connectors out of the rubber boot?  

 

I know they are held my a prong in the plastic connector but the whole plug has a sealed rubber boot. 

[Einspritz]

The rubber piece is not a boot, rather the connector itself.

 

What is it that you want to do?

 

 

 

[tii74]

The wires are frayed inside the connector. 

[Simeon]

I would get a new plug and crimp terminals and then cut that off and remake it. 

[tii74]

I thought the plug is NLA

[Einspritz]

I have the plugs, wire connectors, wire and sleeve.

 

IIRC it is 1 meter from the alternator to the voltage regulator, but yours may be different.

 

I would have to look up what I paid for the components.

 

Let me know.

[tii74]

PM Sent.