body and interior windshield frame rust repair

[jdt10768]

I have some surface rust and a couple rust pinholes on my rear window frame / front frame as well

 

What is the best method for fixing?

I have wire wheeled it off, and was planning to use Eastwood rust encapsulator then touch up paint - cause my car is pretty nasty on the exterior anyway.

I searched, but "still haven't found what I'm looking for"

 

what kinds of fillers would you recommend? epoxy? I have a good body shop around the corner, but $$$ 

[joysterm]

Without seeing the affected area it is difficult to offer the correct answer. None the less if you have corrosion in that area that results in pin holes, then anything short of metal work (cutting the affected area out and replacing it with clean metal) then you are likely chasing your tail...IMO. Although it seems that your ride has other issues so spending $$$ on this issue may not be worth it. 

 

Personally I would take the long route and eliminate the issue entirely, it is the more costly option but one that will last if done properly should you plan to kep the car for any length of time.

Edited September 24, 2015 by joysterm

[Beemeup]

The "best" way to fix it (which is what you asked) is to cut away the cancerous metal, as far out as you need to in order to get to solid un-rotted metal, then butt-weld in a patch. Anything short of this will require repair once again.

[Simeon]

Anthony is correct. If it has even one pin hole through then the steel is already rusting from both sides. You can treat the rust as described but unless you can do both sides it will only be temporary. Temporary could be from months to 10 years but it will come sooner or later.

[fsf517]

It's a tricky area, I have a similar problem on my car. I have a clean donor frame, but worry about fitment on this area. After all the glass is a perfect shape, can't change that, I'm putting it off for now. Good luck.

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[KFunk]

If you need a windshield frame that is mostly rust free (which lacks the bottom drivers side corner that I used), I'm still trying to get rid of one that I cut out of a parts car.  It's really in the way in my workshop, and I've almost dumped it in a scrap metal bin a couple times.

It would be better if I cut it up in a couple pieces, but I can send it off to SC for cost of shipping.

 

When it came time to fix mine, I cut that frame out of a parts car with a sawzall, and gave it to my body shop guy and dropped off my car off and he took the windshield out, then I pulled dash for him.  He found the rusty part, patched in my good corner and put some paint on it for $100 (all that was necessary, and he was really really cheap), then I drove car home and had a had a mobile windshield place come and reinstall windshield with new BMW gasket that I had gotten from BLUNT.

[Mike Self]

Voice of (minor) dissent:  I've had very good service from POR-15 paste.  It's like regular POR paint, but it's the consistency of toothpaste.  By itself it will plug a hole up to about 5-6mm in diameter; anything larger will require a little fiberglass windowscreen to bridge the hole.  

 

I tried some of this stuff on a rusted rear fender opening lip on my E30 and around the license plate lights--both are notorious rust spots on E30s.  There were several holes varying from a couple of mm to 3/4" (19mm).  I plugged 'em with the POR 15 paste, then smoothed the POR and finished the patch with filler, then sanded again and primered.  Never got around to painting, but after two Ohio winters, complete with road salt, there was no new rust, and the patches hadn't bubbled or fallen out.  

 

Based on that, it might be a good, faster way to repair your window lips.  Just paint over the POR before reinstalling the windshield/backlight.  

 

cheers

mike

[Vintage Metal]

If you don't have the 'skill-set' to cut out and fab up new metal - POR15 is a great alternative.  If the holes are small, you can put a backing on the holes and coat the area enough to fill the holes and area around it.  since the window is out, I would POR15 the whole thing to further protect it.  Hot Rod Magazine did an article a few years back showing how to fill holes in floors and non-structural areas using fiberglass cloth.  I have tried this method (on floors and kick panel areas on 40's/50's cars) and it worked amazingly well - aesthetically 

 

The US Navy uses this stuff extensively on its ships...that window surround will outlast the rest of the unprotected car.  

 

Ever try sandblasting this stuff off...I have...it doesn't work very well.  

[jdt10768]

Thank you guys for the feedback,

 

The front frame was less rusty, and only required wire wheel to bare metal then Eastwood rust encapsulator on the cleaned up spots, then touch up paint - 

 

I cleaned up the rear glass frame, but the rust is a little more invasive there with small pinholes at each lower corner so I am going to get a quote from a body guy to clean that up. I'll update the post with some pics as well.  

[KFunk]

Dammit, so you don't want the windshield frame?  I don't want to throw it out, but its big and in the way and has sharp edges.

[jdt10768]

Dammit, so you don't want the windshield frame?  I don't want to throw it out, but its big and in the way and has sharp edges.

No, but thank you very much for the offer KFunk.

[Beantown]

Old thread,  but sure I’ll give it a try.  Do you still have that rear window frame?

Thanks!