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dasfrogger

#1507592, 1966 1600-2

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I'm hoping you ran out of gas :)

 

Pull the plugs and have a look. I'm sure it's something simple.

 

Good luck,

Unfortunately it's got gas...I'm hoping it's something like the plugs too.

 

I just went out and tried it on a break. It had charged overnight. After about 10 seconds of cranking it fired right up and idled well. Was happy to rev. It ran for about 3-4 minutes, stumbled a bit, then died. No restart. I tested battery voltage with a multimeter before and after and it went from 6.16 to 6.06 - doesn't seem like a significant change.

 

Edit: at least we know the radiator doesn't leak!

Edited by dasfrogger

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Pull the points, file them and reinstall. Worked for me :)

 

I still have the incorrect resistance combo with coil and ballast. Should be 3 ohms and I'm at around 2. Chews up points quickly....

 

Cheers,

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Hey Jake,

 

Any news on your '66?

Hope she's back in rude health and being used out on the road where she belongs...    ;)

Unfortunately I haven't gotten much of anything done on the 66. My efforts have been focused toward completing a rebuild on my Jeep XJ (a desperately needed winter car as my DD '73's heat is sad at best) and the holidays.

 

My best guess at this point is the carb needs a rebuild. I'll probably order parts and do a rebuild in the coming weeks. Not in a big hurry as I want to keep the car off the road during the winter - no heat, as the replacement hoses didn't fit to the heater box and I don't want to risk rust via salt and moisture.

 

hopefully it'll be running and driving again soon. If this mild Kentucky winter keeps up, it may be back on the road sooner rather than later.

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Well best of luck!

If and when you see some progress on your '66, please do keep me informed as I will then update the info I have on your 1600-2 in The '66 Registry.
If you have any good pics of the car, I'll also swap the current pic in the registry for a better and more up-to-date one.
You can always wrote me on : andersbilidt (a) hotmail dot com

 

;)

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Finally got around to rebuilding the carb. Spoiler alert - the car still isn't running.

 

The carb is an Italian Weber 34 ICH with a 1985 build date stamped in the bowl. It was pretty gunked up and i was hoping that a rebuild would be the magic bullet. Pulled the carb off the car, disassembled, soaked in chem-dip, cleaned and reassembled with a pierce manifolds rebuild kit. I was disappointed to find that the kit didn't come with the power valve diaphragm (#59 on the diagram)...the included diagram and parts list actually showed a 34ich without the power valve. 

 

61A0BECB-7596-42BF-9204-E57F0F88D076_zps

 

F0F21E1F-5116-4D76-9E84-40E70A7290BC_zps

5D5A527E-E6B2-453F-A787-BF49DA14F973_zps

C4B05DDA-C5CC-49CB-AE3D-DF55600319D4_zps

C4F6151A-E91B-409D-97A3-70757232B895_zps

 

Of course in my zeal to put the carb back together and get it on the car, I didn't take any pictures of the beautiful, clean, freshly chem-dipped carb. It looks really great for such minimal effort.

 

Anyway, as I said above, after install and priming the bowl with gas via turkey baster, I still don't have a running car. Not sure what's going on, but at this point I have to think it's still something in the ignition system. With a new cap/rotor/points/condenser/plugs is it possible the dizzy itself is just complete garbage? Perhaps it's still the carb and that power valve has something to do with my woes?

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John Blake bought some repair kit for his DCOEs.  So he will be doing a similar project.  

 

Scott

If y'all don't have the berryman's chem dip already, it's totally worth it. Takes some patience to let it soak and get all the dirt, but the finished product is really nice. https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/

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I took a half day off today to work on cars with a friend of mine. After pulling the engine block from the jeep & deciding the 73 needs a new steering column, we decided to spend a few minutes diagnosing the 1600-2. We decided to start from the beginning all over again to see if anything had changed & to find anything we'd missed.

 

Since Frogger isn't going anywhere anytime soon, we decided to pull its plug wires and transplant them into the 1600-2 to kick off the night. We returned that kick for a touchdown - she started right up! (OK, enough superbowl inspired football references).

 

https://youtu.be/IgEKTscsx58

 

After much celebration we went inside to the warmth to plan out what happens next. Here's the list I've come up with:

Confirm Generator Polarity / Charging system is operational

Tune Carberartor

Finish Coolant hose install

Install heater hoses (need to buy correct sizes as IE kit missing one hose/other size too large)

Install new water pump

Repair drivers side chair support sheet metal

Install 66 correct donor interior (seats, steering wheel, center console)

Replace Rear view mirror

Replace side view mirror

Adjust window regulators

Check Fuel tank for leaks (IIRC, it leaked a bit after adding gas)

Replace diff oil

Replace E-Brake cables

Replace brake hoses

Check brake pad/shoe life

Rebuild Front/Rear Suspension

Research Replacement guibos

Replace door and trunk seals

Replace 10 slat kidney

Tires

Alignment

Edited by dasfrogger

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Suspension rebuild pt 1

 

I decided to use the subframes that i pulled from my 67 project for the 66. First, because they are period correct w/o mounts for a swaybar and the ones on the car currently are not. Secondly, I wanted to be able to fully rebuild a suspension before removing the existing suspension to minimize time that the car is immobile since I'm using a friends shop to complete this job.

 

39F49D7C-DA60-4BAB-BCB2-317E90E7160A_zps

ACC6F045-483B-47C9-9A5B-0A5660215D7D_zps

484E30FB-9F05-43AA-8993-0507EFCE8826_zps

 

I spent about an hour pressure washing the front and rear (not pictured) subframes and got most of the gunk off of them. Spent about 10 minutes with an old screw driver and scraped at some more of the thick stuff in the cracks and crevices. I had intended on sand blasting them and repainting, but with time constraints, i'll just touch up some of the bare spots and call it good enough.

 

everything came off this subframe way better than it did on my 73 last year. piece of cake.

 

0C5D2B68-0AE5-476A-944F-AF63788C78C6_zps

9D89600B-8F27-4139-ACF0-8C98D53A2121_zps

 

Had a few extra minutes and wanted to do as much as i could to get ready for next weekend. Spent that time torching out the bushings instead of patiently waiting for the press tool that will arrive next week. I'm glad i've experienced torching bushings, but don't think i'll ever do it again.

72FE4F6D-BD92-416E-8F8F-08B36B5A8D04_zps

80D8B7E0-69A2-4F21-9ED7-0939D7C78E1B_zps

Obligatory gratuitous flame shot:

D79CA39B-2E78-4CD0-B2D4-0CECFC97EAFC_zps

 

I plan to spend all next weekend in Lexington working on the suspension. With any luck, we'll have everything swapped out by Sunday night. The plan is to:

Paint rusy or bare areas on subframes

finish pressing out old bushings, press in new bushings

Reassemble front and rear subframes

flush diff and steering box fluid

Drop old subframes

reinstall new subframes, ebrake cables, and stainless soft brake lines.

Replace front and rear wheel bearings.

 

 

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The past two weeks haven't gone as planned - from easter, to getting my friends new two post lift installed, there have been other priorities. Story of my life - i should learn to stop estimating when things are going to be done. I've got the day off tomorrow, with any luck things will go quickly and we'll be in business.

 

I did get some prep work done on the subframes. I'll let the photos speak:

BEFORE:
C8F08257-4F23-4506-BA18-1611A57DEC5F_zps

30905195-82C6-462D-B200-5E7A4ADE657E_zps

5AC499E5-B65D-4433-A7B4-A5D328A06984_zps

EB6C9A94-677C-403E-96E0-CB3E645AFAE9_zps

B0411050-A828-47AD-AEC1-CB3EBA22AD2C_zps

0F45D5F3-9607-448B-B20D-F798770CE2D6_zps

 

 

AFTER:
526070F1-697F-445C-8C4B-9AA5BCDE4F5E_zps

0311086B-A37F-45A7-AC30-46CB4BA4A8E7_zps

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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(edited)

After doing Frogger's suspension last year i saved the original trailing arms w/ riveted ball joints to use as cores for a later project. I knew i'd have to drill the rivets out, that'll be a fun and easy job right?

Let's get started....

87310074-6259-43D6-ACD3-845C0486D2E0_zps

 

I've nearly drilled thru the right side with a stepper bit, still no dice

FFAF306C-10BE-4532-93AC-EF82C21E4839_zps

 

20 minutes of drilling, a numb leg and a headache i called it quits. Andrew came along behind me a few days later with a fresh bit and got them out. No clue if it was swift or not, but the job is done. Next time, I'll just spend the cash for a replacement control arm with bushings already installed.

 

Next we went to work pressing the bushings out of the Derby Car's original trailing arms. That car had a production date of 1/67, and I discovered something about early cars i hadn't known before. There was another trailing arm - very similar to later cars, that has a bushing encased in a metal sleeve. I emailed blunt, and he is in the process of tracking down a set of these goofy bushings to swap out for me.

9B5CA550-AFC2-4E4A-A197-213EA763B7FB_zps

E36F1B58-1CA5-41D5-800E-71E292AB5972_zps

 

We were able to press bushings into the control arms, but that was about it and of course i didn't take a photo of the finished product. Since we'd been beaten by lack of tools or correct parts to go any further with the suspension rehab, we stuck the car up on a lift to poke around.

08085B45-4E31-4855-A375-73BF47841CF4_zps

Here's what really started us down the rabbit hole of suspension rehab - this boot is severly torn, and instead of just replacing the boot, or axle, I figured, why not do a full rebuild. How terrible could that be.....

79B5A583-CA79-460B-812D-28DC0D450959_zps

At some point someone swapped the drivers side axle to CV style instead of grease-able u joint

0DF92930-D88D-4371-8F47-5CE752E10CDE_zps

 

Well, it wasn't entirely the axle boot's fault...both early control arms have been pretty seriously tweaked and welded

77902546-C61F-41B4-998A-FAFD7C964DC8_zps

35952A25-88E4-4EDE-AE20-07444B1F2CE8_zps

 

Also, I knew the guibos were in not good shape, but upon closer inspection, all three are very not good.

Can't see the cracks , but the one connecting to the transmission is by far the worst.

572E5811-661E-4A46-B91F-3C597331B87F_zps

 

For those unaware, the early cars had driveshafts with three guibos, and mine is the style with the CSB as seen in the bottom of this parts diagram:
driveshaft_zpszrweprny.png

Of course, the individual guibo part number wasn't listed. Thankfully Blunt was able to come to the rescue and find it (26111100863 for posterity)...but they're $169.09 EACH. Not. Good. 

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the driveshaft issue. First thought was to have a regular 02's driveshaft shortened to fit, but that still leaves me in need of two expensive guibos, and the cost of driveshaft work. Anyone out there have any ideas?

 

I'll be back in Lexington again this weekend - hopefully things will turn around and it'll be a very productive two days.

Edited by dasfrogger
guibos. argh!

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This past weekend got scrapped - I'm sure no one expected that. However, it wasn't the usual reason. I've got a huge dog who decided it was time for an emergency trip to the vet, then to a vet hospital for emergency surgery. Long story short, dog ended up not having surgery, but required constant attention all weekend. Good news is hes mostly out of the woods, bad news the 1600 is still off at least another week or two.

D8D436EC-4F9C-48B4-BE56-264AFBE9F05C_zps

 

One small update though. When i bought the car, the early 'swan neck' mirror was missing. Later it turned up from the auction house staff, but without it's glass and the housing had a crease. I was able to take it up to a local glass shop who cut and installed a new piece of glass. It's not factory, but the look fits the car well.

 

Before

A60CC23D-F9AE-4256-ACB0-C497FA542ABA_zps

 

After

C540089D-EC02-4CDB-9F58-3BE1D02EB533_zps

 

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