Guest Anonymous

working on my door locks

9 posts in this topic Last Reply

Recommended Posts

Guest Anonymous

200204.jpg

after putzin w/them last night. it looks like the throw (the tab behind the door handle lock) isn't broken after all. the problem is the piece the throw moves up and down on the door lock mech. get's "sticky" and doesn't want to move up and down.

the passenger side, i have working enough that i now can lock the door, but have to give it like two turns to full disengage it.

the driver side is the same situation. but is EXTREMLY stubborn about moving.

if i take the lock mech out of the door and clean it REALLY well and lube it up, do you think that'll cure it? I'm a bit 'weary' of taken the lock mech. out of the door, but it doesn't look too too hard.

gotta get this all done before my new door panels from Al show up. =)

thanks,

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

Spray some of your favorite penetrating oil into the mechanism. This is what I've done, and it works for about a year before you have to repeat it:

1. Roll up the window. If it's down, it'll get sprayed.

2. One at a time, remove the largish Phillips head screws that hold the latch assembly and spray penetrating oil into the door through the screw hole. Replace the screw and do the same to the next one. I believe there are 3 screws.

3. Try it out. It's worked on 3 different cars for me.

I believe this was originally Mike Self's suggestion way back in time.

--Jerry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

200204.jpg

Jerry thanks a ton.

just one question...what type of penetraing oil should i use? i was using white lithium grease.

thanks a ton,

dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

Here is what you do:

Remove Door panel carefully.....X-mas trees that hold them to the sheet metal may break, but are available at any dealer.....and are cheap.

Peel back the plastic, being careful to not let the mastic (puddy) crack the plastic or tear it.....remove it only from the the upper corner where handle is.

Tools....all you need is a Phillips screw driver (large size) and a 10mm socket with extension.....Phillips head bolt is visible from the side of door, and the 10mm bolt is just forward of all the internal hardware.....make sure the window is all the way up...this makes it much easier to reach.

Remove handle....make sure not to lose gaskets, or replace if cracked or missing.

Handle has slot head screw on the inside end....undo that....remove lever, spring and then push out the tumbler.......

Clean thoroughly with cleaner of choice.....blow out residue with compressed air or similar, lubricate with your favorite light oil......(graphite tends to lead to the sticky condition that you are trying to fix.....)

Reinstall opposite of above.....but check operation of tumbler before reinstallation to insure that the problem is fixed.....You may need to have them rekeyed if they are worn out.

that should do it......

I've done lots of cars, and this is the easiest way....

Don't worry...the small mechanicals in the tumbler will not fall out......unless really really really worn.

Cheers.

02MonsterMike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

All door latch mechanisms eventually get gummed up to the point that they will cause the lock cylinder to break if forced. Dave has picked the perfect time to correct this. If you remove the latch from the door, you can soak it in some solvent, such as mineral spirits, to clean it, then dry, then lube with lithium grease. The 'snappy' feel of a clean latch is very satisfying.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

When you get the door panel off, you will find that you need one or more of the following parts:

51-41-1-870-718, $1.36, door panel snaps, 12 per door.

These are the newer green ones, and you should discard the white plastic sockets if you use them.

52-20-8-238-999, $1.39, lock rod grommets, 4 per door.

At least one of these will be disintegrated, causing one or both lock rods to rattle.

51-95-1-924-961, ~$20, door foil, 1 meter per door.

Self-adhesive heavy plastic film, also called "acella cloth". Not sure about the price, except I paid Maximillian $19 for two meters. This or a suitable substitute is essential for keeping rain water off the door panel and floor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

I think that's what I used. Last time I did it was before I parked the car about 3 years ago. They're just starting to gum up again with the cooler weather coming on.

--Jerry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

To free up a sticky lock mechanism, unscrew the two Phillips head screws holding the rubber guide wedge on the edge of the door (these are two of the screws that hold the lock onto the door). Insert wand from a WD40 can into each hole and give a 2-3 second blast. Replace screws. While not a permanent fix, it'll free up the sticking mechanism so you won't take a chance on breaking off a key. Then do it properly later.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now