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I've been reading for a couple of days now about engine break-in and break-in oils. Man my head is swimming from T.M.I. (too much information). I think I'm set on most of what I need except the level of zinc to use in the oil. My oil of choice for day to day driving is Valvoline VR1 20/50W Racing and I've been very happy with it since I started using it and will return to it after break-in. But now the engine has been rebuilt I need to pick the oil to use for break-in. The mechanic I've been working with suggest using a 30W non-detergent oil with a zinc additive. I really don't want to use non-detergent oil during this period so I've been thinking of using Valvoline VR1 30W Racing which has the zinc in it already. I guess what's causing me to ponder a little is should I add additional zinc to the oil as was suggested or leave it out. Could a person wind up with too much zinc during break-in?

 

So too add or not add additional zinc to the oil? If a little is good is more better?

 

Good things in moderation are best in life.........willie

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I was instructed to run non-detergent SAE 30 oil for 500 miles/break-in in 1990. (Valvoline)  Perhaps things/chemistry has changed.  We have some well-informed members here.  I look forward to their current recommendations.

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I use Joe Gibbs BR30 for break in and Brad-Penn Grade 1 HP (normal, not break-in) once the engine is broken in.

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If you had a shop assemble the engine I would use what they say so if there is a warranty issue they can't blame "Your" choice of oil.

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You can over- ZDDP it, I've read, but no- one seems to agree what ppm is too much.

 

I have been using a non- detergent oil with Comp Cam's additive as a break- in, and

haven't been having cam problems even with stiffer valve springs.

 

Given that the break- in oil is pretty short- term (several hours) the non- detergent

part doesn't matter so much, really.

 

And honestly, I try to pay attention to the cam in the  10 or so hours AFTER the initial

break- in period, just because I'm paranoid.  The Valvoline VR has good numbers-

I suspect you'll be fine that way.

 

 

And with a stock cam and springs, break- in's not too bad.  It's the really stiff springs

that have bitten me- to the point that I ran the last engine with softer springs at first.

 

t

 

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I used Royal Purple 10w30 break in oil with zinc/phosphorous additives and after 1kmiles changed to RotellaT 15w40

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Don't do that for break- in, though...

 

t

 

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(edited)

Joe Gibb or Brad Penn break in oils is a must on a fresh engine its cheep insurance take it from someone has learned the expensive way this really applies with new high lift camshafts   

John

Edited by flybmw02

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(edited)

 I just buy the low price, parts house brand 10W-30 for break in, but I don't ever do crazy engines with ridiculous cams or springs.  At just before 500 miles, I drain and go with Rotella T6 and a Purolator Pure1 filter. 

 

That has worked just fine for 4 engines now including an S38.

 

Jose

Edited by DaHose

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I broke in my new engine with (IIRC) plain ole Pennzoil 20w-50 driving to and from Vintage in 2004 (yes, I varied the rpms and did a lot of closed-throttle coasting) and then switched to Amsoil 20w-50 synthetic.  

 

Engine's doing fine after 45k miles, so I guess I did things right.  So far.

 

mike

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I broke in my new engine with (IIRC) plain ole Pennzoil 20w-50 driving to and from Vintage in 2004

That was just before things changed.  I did the same, about that time, and had no problems.

 

2 years later, very similar circumstances, same type of oil but 'reformulated', the cam chowed itself.  Pretty spectacularly.

And that wasn't even a particularly aggressive cam. 

 

What really hurt was that I still had a few bottles of the 'pre- starburst' oil kicking around the shop...

 

t

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