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I've been reading for a couple of days now about engine break-in and break-in oils. Man my head is swimming from T.M.I. (too much information). I think I'm set on most of what I need except the level of zinc to use in the oil. My oil of choice for day to day driving is Valvoline VR1 20/50W Racing and I've been very happy with it since I started using it and will return to it after break-in. But now the engine has been rebuilt I need to pick the oil to use for break-in. The mechanic I've been working with suggest using a 30W non-detergent oil with a zinc additive. I really don't want to use non-detergent oil during this period so I've been thinking of using Valvoline VR1 30W Racing which has the zinc in it already. I guess what's causing me to ponder a little is should I add additional zinc to the oil as was suggested or leave it out. Could a person wind up with too much zinc during break-in?

 

So too add or not add additional zinc to the oil? If a little is good is more better?

 

Good things in moderation are best in life.........willie

I've survived damn near everything.

1974 - 2002, Mild - sold to son
1976 - 2002, lil' Wild

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I was instructed to run non-detergent SAE 30 oil for 500 miles/break-in in 1990. (Valvoline)  Perhaps things/chemistry has changed.  We have some well-informed members here.  I look forward to their current recommendations.

A060_1_20150511385857587.jpg

John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

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You can over- ZDDP it, I've read, but no- one seems to agree what ppm is too much.

 

I have been using a non- detergent oil with Comp Cam's additive as a break- in, and

haven't been having cam problems even with stiffer valve springs.

 

Given that the break- in oil is pretty short- term (several hours) the non- detergent

part doesn't matter so much, really.

 

And honestly, I try to pay attention to the cam in the  10 or so hours AFTER the initial

break- in period, just because I'm paranoid.  The Valvoline VR has good numbers-

I suspect you'll be fine that way.

 

 

And with a stock cam and springs, break- in's not too bad.  It's the really stiff springs

that have bitten me- to the point that I ran the last engine with softer springs at first.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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 I just buy the low price, parts house brand 10W-30 for break in, but I don't ever do crazy engines with ridiculous cams or springs.  At just before 500 miles, I drain and go with Rotella T6 and a Purolator Pure1 filter. 

 

That has worked just fine for 4 engines now including an S38.

 

Jose

Edited by DaHose
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I broke in my new engine with (IIRC) plain ole Pennzoil 20w-50 driving to and from Vintage in 2004 (yes, I varied the rpms and did a lot of closed-throttle coasting) and then switched to Amsoil 20w-50 synthetic.  

 

Engine's doing fine after 45k miles, so I guess I did things right.  So far.

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I broke in my new engine with (IIRC) plain ole Pennzoil 20w-50 driving to and from Vintage in 2004

That was just before things changed.  I did the same, about that time, and had no problems.

 

2 years later, very similar circumstances, same type of oil but 'reformulated', the cam chowed itself.  Pretty spectacularly.

And that wasn't even a particularly aggressive cam. 

 

What really hurt was that I still had a few bottles of the 'pre- starburst' oil kicking around the shop...

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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