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Guest Anonymous

Body experts: I'm replacing dangergrrl's spare tire well tod

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Guest Anonymous

and was wondering how much sheet metal to remove. We

were able to get a nice spare tire well from Double 02

Salvage. The patch we got will pretty much replace the entire

well section of the trunk floor. But, we really only need to

replace the bottom half of the well, starting about two inches

above the lowest point of the well.

Should I replace the whole left side trunk floor section or just

the necessary section of the well itself? My first thought is to

replace as little as possible, while removing ALL of the rust.

But, if I replace the whole left side of the trunk floor I can

pretty much make it look like new.

I guess what I'm asking is how invasive should I get, should I

rip out the entire brain to remove a tumor or just the tumor

itself?

Thanks for your opinion.

-E

P.s. Yes, I will disconnect the battery, remove the fuel tank

and have a fire extinguisher handy :-)

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Guest Anonymous

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the "mig brothers" will chime in soon with recommendations: the guys who have actually done this job; i dont recal whether they took a lot of material out or minimal: but if you have a really nice pan to put in i bet they tell you to cut back to overlap and go with the whole new one. do you have some primer and or paint ready to go? Kragans sells some rattle can paints that are very close to Sahara- i have used them for touch upon my car- although my color is slightly lighter from age than Dangergirl's. Anyway- it will be easy to get some anti rust primer and a close sahara paint to shoot the area after you do your transplant. Also- please check the condensor on the dizzy and make sure it is on correctly and tight. Thanks very much for doing the job(s). Amy luck locating a Recaro bracket- or are you going to fab one up? Good luck!

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Guest Anonymous

Cut the metal to the point that you have good full thickness metal to attach to. Beyond that it is a matter of ease of access to work and trim it up (grinding, paint, etc)and make it look good. IMHO!

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Guest Anonymous

What to replace would be based upon damage and interest in originality. Increasing either of those would make me cut out more metal.

From my experience doing other metal replacement, the well brings up a unique, and kinda cool, opportunity. if you cut the new metal a around the top radius down to the well (but in part of the radius), you will have a nice lip that will hold the well in place, centered, just a sheet metal thickness high.

One major drawback to overlapping is moisture trapping.

I have not done this, will post a pic in a minute to further describe since I don't think I am being very clear. Just tossing it out there as an idea.

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Guest Anonymous

If you leave a bit of vertical material around the top edge of the well but cut the patch panel above that point, you could make the well a bit deeper to accommodate wider spare wheels. An extra half-inch on my car would be helpful for 5" rims, and an extra inch could allow 5.5" rims to sit without contacting the trunk board. Even slightly wider-than-stock 185/70-13 tires on my 4.5" rims push the board up on my early '71.

-Dave

Colorado '71

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Guest Anonymous

tirewell.gif

that is the idea. On second thought, i don't believe cutting the new metal with in the radius is really critical.

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Guest Anonymous

standard.jpg

Carl Nelson told me that the way he accomodates big wheels for 02s is to replace the 02 well with a Coupe well( probably a Bav well would ork too) : he says it is a straightforward swap and you have the extra width and depth to make the floor cover boards flat. I want to do this for my Inka, which has uneven boards right now, OR hit the lotto and put in an Alpina 17 gallon, or a Turbo gas tank to "raise" the other side to even things up. I have some "pinholes" in my spare well that must be dealt with: pic of well exterior....standard.jpg, i will take well interior pics today- forgot i did not have them.I need to repaint the whole trunk anyway, so will do it when the cuttin' is done. Wonder if anyone has swapped in a Bavaria,or a 3.0 well. Plz post of so. thanks.

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Guest Anonymous

can we???

Yeah, I have some por-15 ready to go and I'll get a can of the

"Kragans Sahara" to finish the job. Thanks for the heads up.

No more condenser after today! I got a Pertronix unit from

Carl Nelson an will be installing that as well.

I will also install a new go pedal to lessen the chance of the

pedal popping off in city traffic... again.

I'll take a look at the seat rails, though I doubt I'll get to that

today. Still have to install a stereo (Blaupunkt Toronto), align

the drivers door striker plate, adjust the gas cap (it's very hard

to remove & install), and check the drivers window alignment.

Lots to do.

-E

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Guest Anonymous

under that overlap and have even more of the floor rust out in

five years.

An alternative to your method would be to drop the well in as

you suggest, tack weld, then cut through both layers with a

body saw. After that you would have near perfect alignment

and could fill the gap with mig wire;-)

I'll see when she gets here.

-E

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Guest Anonymous

that is a good idea. I would suggest sheet metal screws instead of tack welds. They really pull the metal together and are very useful when working the the middle of a panel where a clamp is out of the question.

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Guest Anonymous

I installed a Pertronix in a new Tii dizzy.

-E

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