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Guest Anonymous

Gearbox/shifter help needed!

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Guest Anonymous

'69 1600 with mechanical clutch linkage- the past two days I was having a strange over-center pop in the pedal cluster when shifting. I adjusted the tension on the spring at the clutch pedal tighter and lubricated all the bushings and the sound went away for about ten miles.

I looked in the factory work shop manual this morning and found a spec for the spring length, so I took some of the tension off and set to the correct length. The pop went away completely, but when I drove the car I can't get it to go into second or fourth at all even with the engine off. It goes into reverse, first and third normally. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Mike Kuhn

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Guest Anonymous

After closer inspection, it looks like the tension bushing which is supposed to be on the inside of the shift rod at the gearbox end has lost the roll pin that holds in in place. It's part number 4 (25.11.1203.132) on page 23/16 of the factory parts manual.

When shifting into reverse, first or third the bushing remains forward on the shift rod and then blocks the shifter from going forward when going into second or fourth.

Any tips on replacing this? Do you have to remove the entire shift housing to install the roll pin or just put it in one of the gears it will go into?

Mike Kuhn

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Guest Anonymous

The problems are most likely unrelated. I had a similar popping noise from the pedal box on my 1600, which was solved by lubrication. Be aware that there is a little metal tab on the bottom of the 1600's clutch pedal that was originally designed to keep the pedal from drifting reward when the pedal is released. These tabs can wear down/break off, and sometimes squeak when you press the pedal in - they've been worn off on every 1600 I've ever driven, including the 1971 50,000 mile time capsule. When you're under the car to replace the roll pin, take a look over the whole linkage and make sure things are well lubed. I've found that silver anti-seize paste is good for the threaded rod at the clutch release lever. Also check the rubber donuts on either side of the linkage bar (between the left frame rail and the engine block). Might want to put some silicon or other rubber care type product on them - they cover nylon bushings that are NLA (I think??), and if the nylon bushings deteriorate the likage can get stiff and notchy. For adjustment, the best advice is the follow the factory manual. However, most of the adjustment is how the pedal and engagement/disengagement feels. The pedal travel should feel light, direct, and precise when it is properly adjusted. I prefer the feel of the 1600's mechnical linkage over the hydraulic linkage in 2002s, which to me always felt mushy.

Be aware that on 1600's with badly rusty left front frame rails (usually 1967 and 1968), the linkage bar mount can tear away from the frame rail over time and bind up when the clutch pedal is depressed.

As for the roll pin, you will need to see how much working room there is - it might be a good time to replace shifter bushings and inspect your guibo if you haven't already done so.

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Guest Anonymous

Derek- thanks for the suggestions. I installed the new tension bushing last night in about five minutes, but it came off today. The Guibo was slightly cracked in a couple of places and had distorted to an oblong shape causing it to touch the compression bushing as the engine torqued over. I replaced the Guibo and the problem is solved!

Mike Kuhn

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Guest Anonymous

I'm thinking of upgrading to the euro 316 intake this winter. Might start looking for another 8-bolt crank 1.6 liter to build up to 9.5:1

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Derek- I installed the 34ICH and played around with the jetting for a couple of weeks and finally gave up and sent it back. It idled great and got incredible gas mileage, but the off-idle transition and upper end throttle response was not even close to the stock Solex.

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