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Guest Anonymous

POR-15 vs 2 part enamel paint

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Guest Anonymous

Some time ago, there was a brief discussion on POR-15 vs marine paint. Has anyone had luck with 2 part enamel paints and if so, what kind of prep work was needed? Could I get away with simply degreasing and then applying a 2 part enamel or would all of the rust need to be removed? Also, is there an enamel product that is a little thicker to fill in the small rust holes in my spare wheel well?

Chuck

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Guest Anonymous

From what I understand the 2 part epoxy paints and por 15 make bad top coats but they are stronger. They fade or chalk when exposed to UV and dont feather when sanded. They are however stronger than enamel- as I understand it. Sorry- I know I am not being very helpful- hopefully someone with more experience will weigh in.

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Guest Anonymous

I am looking for the spare wheel well, so appearance is not important. The big questions I have are is it thick enough to bridge some of the gaps (read as rust holes) in the wheel well and also how much prep work is needed--can I get away with just degreasing the bottom of the wheel well and then slathering on the paint over the top? Or do I need to perform extensive rust removal? Will 2 part epoxy encapsulate the rust like POR is supposed to do?

Lots of questions, lots of time to read up this winter while the car sits in storage. I just wanted to pick the brains of the people on the board here who may have used one or both types of paint.

Chuck

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Guest Anonymous

Basically i think por 15 is a one part epoxy and that any paint will adhere better to a clean rust free surface. The reason the p15 folks can claim that it will stick to a rusted surface better than a fresh one is because the rusted surface has a tooth. I bet that a rusted tehn sandblasted surface will hold up longer than a rusted then wire brushed surface. I dunno if the paint will fall through the holes in the well or not but I bet that if you put tape on the bottom surface and did a few coats youl'd be fine. What I would do is to get a wire brush wheel on a grender and hit the areas in need of attention. This will undoubtably make you rust holes bugger as you will be removing all of the stuff that is just barely hanging on. The I would use "long and strong" or some other epoxy fiberglass resin mix to fill the holes. its not difficult to use but do a neat job with it as sanding the excess off takes time. Its strong stuff and can take many years of abuse. Then paint with some epoxy stuff por 15 or 2 part. Do 2 coats at least to cover any thin spots etc. This is basically what I did but since I had my car apart so I was sand blasting everything.

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Guest Anonymous

Why not just drop in a new trunk floor. Depending on how far gone your floor is you should be able to get it done without getting into the exterior paint. I'm using POR15 on my new floors and like it a lot.

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