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Several questions about EFI with a 318i intake


Healey3000

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Hi,

For those who have used the E30 318i intake for an EFI conversion, how did you address the following:

  • How is the M20 throttle body oriented?  Pictures showing the mounting would be very helpful
  • How do you connect the throttle linkage from the original ’02 setup to the M20 TB?
  • What do you use for an intake elbow, to feed the air charge smoothly into the TB?  Is there an OEM boot that fits?
  • What’s the best way to plug up those extra ports in the TB (while using one for the IAC)?
  • In the E30, there is a support rod that goes from the bottom of the plenum to the engine mount, presumably to stabilize the intake manifold.  Is there a way to use that on the ’02?  If not, any problems with vibration?
  • Can the E21 (320i) water divider be used instead of the 318i one?  It looks like it will fit.  M10-powered 318i's re rarer than hen's teeth, it seems.
  • What do you use for cam position sensing?  Is a distributor adapter available or does batch fire injection work just fine?
  • Best location to port the MAP sensor?
  • What about venting the fuel tank?  Do you need a vapor pressure sensor?  How do you set up a vacuum solenoid to purge the charcoal canister (I don’t mean the plumbing itself, rather, the MS control logic)
  • Why doesn’t a PWM-style idle valve work?  Ford has some good ones.  It makes the Megasquirt wiring a lot easier.
  • Did you have to upgrade your alternator to handle MS?  If so, which one did you use?

 

Whew; lots of questions, sorry!

 

Thanks.

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I dropped a complete, fuel injected E30 M10 in my former '76 with all its peripherals intact: manifold brace, crummy stock idle valve and controller, IR alternator, distributor, the whole bit. It all fits and works fine. Although it is inferior to MS or other aftermarket management systems which allow adjustability, it IS damn reliable. Tom at '02Again makes the M20 throttle body adapter and it may still be available through the FAQ Store. I used a stock E30 throttle cable and connected the pedal end to the carbed '02's vertical throttle rod using a simple adapter and bracket. Allows WOT and works fine for me. If I recall correctly, I used an early E34 525i M20 intake boot to connect to the 318i airflow meter. As Bluedevils stated, search the forums. He and other '02ers have gone about each of these things in a multitude of ways. You might also Google "Steve's BMW 320i Site" for other ideas. HTH

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I dropped a complete, fuel injected E30 M10 in my former '76 with all its peripherals intact: manifold brace, crummy stock idle valve and controller, IR alternator, distributor, the whole bit. It all fits and works fine. Although it is inferior to MS or other aftermarket management systems which allow adjustability, it IS damn reliable. Tom at '02Again makes the M20 throttle body adapter and it may still be available through the FAQ Store. I used a stock E30 throttle cable and connected the pedal end to the carbed '02's vertical throttle rod using a simple adapter and bracket. Allows WOT and works fine for me. If I recall correctly, I used an early E34 525i M20 intake boot to connect to the 318i airflow meter. As Bluedevils stated, search the forums. He and other '02ers have gone about each of these things in a multitude of ways. You might also Google "Steve's BMW 320i Site" for other ideas. HTH

Thanks for the suggestion of the 525i boot.  I think I had found your post during past searches (where it mentions that the boot would be installed backwards).  Glad it's working for you - I'll go hunt one down.  I don't think the part number changed during the M20 era, but I'll double-check on realoem.

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That boot is still readily available and inexpensive. For that matter, so is the E30M10 water divider and pipe, at least as of a year ago.

Ah, but in the modern era, where we no longer live in caves, finding a part at the junkyard is as close as I get to being a hunter in the Hunter/Gatherer paradigm.  I shall stalk a 525, capture it and harvest its elbow!

 

M10-powered 318's seem to be very hard to find, at least here in the Bay Area.  I found but one in the PicknPull chain within a hundred mile radius.  That car clearly had not had regular coolant changes and as a result, the passages were choked with buildup.  The divider was even more divided; corroded right through in a couple of spots.  Someone had taken a hammer to the head, breaking off chunks.  I got the intake, fuel rail, support rod & block and the alternator brackets but the rail is dented where they must have tried to pry the head off using the rail for leverage.  I don't think it's going to leak but I get nervous with high pressure fuel.

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At least Healey3000 is thinking.  All good questions.

No doubt they are good questions,but it is impossible to answer each one of them here. Many already answered in the past at FAQ, other BMW forums,  and also at megasquirt forums.  It also seems newbie already knows the answers to many of his own questions!  

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No doubt they are good questions,but it is impossible to answer each one of them here. Many already answered in the past at FAQ, other BMW forums,  and also at megasquirt forums.  It also seems newbie already knows the answers to many of his own questions!  

Well, newbie does a lot of research and is generally a quick study but sometimes needs a gentle nudge in the right direction :-)

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I'll bite as to cam position-

 

you can use the stock reluctive 318 ignition, and sense off the ignition control module.

Which is klugy at best.

you can use a stock dizzy with a pertronix in it, which is a bit better.

There are 36-1 wheel kits out there that work well, but you'd still need

the stock dizzy with a custom trigger to find #1 tdc on combustion.

 

If you actually wanted to sense from the cam, modifying the upper cam cover wouldn't be

too hard, and then use an E36 sensor or something like that.  I think that's probably overkill, tho...

 

As to using a PWM IAC, it's just plumbing- make a bypass route, and plumb in your

choice of solenoid.  I used a Soobie one on the Volvo, because it had one plate mount

and one hose fitting, and that was easiest for me.  The Ford version bolts to a plate,

for both in and out, and at that point, I didn't have the machining capacity to do that.

The late 320 neck might work, but as others have noted, the 318 part is still listed as available.

Likewise, the early 320 alternator's an upgrade in capacity and simplicity.

 

Your MAP sensor should read from the plenum, not a runner. Otherwise, it doesn't matter.

Having recently played with Mustang AFM's though, they are super- cool, and I'd look at that

simply for the added precision...

 

Good luck, and add a turbo soon.

 

t

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What do you use for cam position sensing? Is a distributor adapter available or does batch fire injection work just fine?

 

My impression this question is directed to the engine cycle reset trigger that is often taken from the cam.  I get that the 02 M10 is being used, so the 318 ignition would be a pain to use in that either the cam or the drive gear on the distr would need to be changed to even use the distr.

 

Putting a hole in the timing cover is just about out unless there is a decent sealing area put on the cover.  I gutted a distr except for the input shaft and mounted a Honewell GT101 on a cover plate. 

Setting tolerance on the location has lots of leeway because it is only a reset signal, nothing to do with accurate timing.

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