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question regarding m20 swap


luismpr

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Sooooo I bought an m42 with intentions of swapping it. After tearing it down cone to find out that it's not gonna worth it to rebuild. We have 3 known good m20s as backups for the spec e30 race car and had an idea. M20 swap? Awesome!! Don't want to cut trans tunnel though. So my question is will the g240 from the e30 318i bolt up to the m20 and what is done regarding the flywheel and shift linkage? I have searched and not found a definitive answer. Thanks for the help guys

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The g240 I'm referring to is the e30 318i(m42) g240. It does bolt up. Just trying now to figure out what flywheel+pp+starter combo I need to run. Gonna m20 swap the 02 but don't want to have to cut the trans tunnel and get the inside close to the pedal box. Hopefully the g240 will just slide in there and at most require a little hammering with the BFH. :D

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So you used the m20 flywheel, pp, clutch in the g240trans? What TOB did you use? Because if that all worked out then using the same setup but on an m20 instead of an m42 would be the same. Assuming you also used the m42 slave cylinder? Thanks for the responses by the way!

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I used the standard M42 clutch cylinder. I used the M42 throw out bearing. I found out about it at m42 club.com. A guy in San diego that has a performance shop added a turbo to his E30 m42. He wanted higher performacne than the very heavy stock m42 wheel, so he used the m20 setup (it's much lighter). I think the shop is Dynatech.

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Awesome info rogue, thanks for that!

Barrosco thanks for the link I had already come across it and read it but ended up reading the entire thread this time.I understand most of it ,but the thing that has me slightly confused is if I'm supposed to run the spacer or 323 TOB. Reason I'm confused is because this seems to be for swapping the m20 stuff and mating it to the m42 motor. What I'm trying to do is have the m20 motor(in 02) and use the m20 flywheel and what not and mate a e30 318 g240 to the m20 motor to attempt to avoid cutting the trans tunnel. Now does anyone have any insight as to if I need to run the 323i TOB (little longer) to correctly Run the 240 trans on the m20 motor? Or could I just run the stock m20 stuff(flywheel,pp,clutch, TOB) and be set?

Sorry if this question has been answered. I've been looking around and apparently running a g240 on the m20 is taboo because I haven't found much info on it. Thanks again guys

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Well, the G240 is a weaker box, so I don't think it's done very often since the 260 is perfectly suited for the M20. Not many people have a reason to use the smaller box.

 

That being said, I believe the stack height of the flywheel and clutch components needs to be the same as it would for an M42 with a G240. I don't see a reason why being mated to an M20 would change anything. Unless the mounting flange on the crank is a different depth than that of the M42. I would suggest you measure that and make sure there aren't any issues. If they do turn out to be the same, then the M20 flywheel swap setup would work just fine.

 

You can go either route, but it either has to be the flywheel spacer with the rest of the stock M20 components or a 323 TOB without the spacer.

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Yea I know that much, just thought that I would have found a little more info on it. Figured I wasn't the only one that didnt want to cut up the trans tunnel.hmmm I'll have to measure the mounting part on my m42 crank at the m20 crank at the shop. Awesome thanks for that! I'll measure and I figure I'll just run the 323 TOB as long as the cranks measure out. Anyone have any info or tips on what to do as far as the shifter being cocked 10°?

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Yea I know that much, just thought that I would have found a little more info on it. Figured I wasn't the only one that didnt want to cut up the trans tunnel.hmmm I'll have to measure the mounting part on my m42 crank at the m20 crank at the shop. Awesome thanks for that! I'll measure and I figure I'll just run the 323 TOB as long as the cranks measure out. Anyone have any info or tips on what to do as far as the shifter being cocked 10°?

If you search you'll find the answer. But if you don't want to......

 

heat and twist the stock selector rod 10° to compensate for the change. Or you can buy the UUC one that is dual shear and already twisted. 

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I did search. Found some guy cuttingit and rewelding it but never saw anything else such as the uuc double shear compensating for that. Thanks for the input, info like this was what I was looking for but failed to find.

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