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two more engine bay items


1972-2002

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Let me guess, white pine, sequoia and aspen? or is that cottonwood? poplar perhaps?  

The leaf is a tough one, but it looks like you have a beautiful parking place. :)

 

(sorry... I couldn't resist either...)

 

New strut mounts might be necessary...  

(unless this is your parts car) 

 

You can leave the spacers out and lower the front 1/2" - 3/4" when you replace them.  

(unless this is your parts car)

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That is interesting.  I ordered a Black coil from Blunt and received an aluminum colored one with green stickers.  

(that was a few years ago now and I have since put the 'original' back in because it looks cool)

 

I recently read on this forum that the stock coil was a Red one, in spite of its black color.

 

original black coil, that's the same as a red coil. 

 

 

 

Measuring the resistance will tell Blue (internal resistor) from Black or Red, neither of which have internal resistors.

 

All of this is especially important if you are using a Pertronix, as improper resistance can cook it.

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I found that with the blue coil, secondary resistance mattered.

 

As in, a resistor rotor, resistor wires and resistor plugs would hesitate under heavy throttle,

but switching out the rotor and the plugs to non- resistance completely cured the problem.

 

Impedance matching at 10kv.  Who knew?

 

heh

 

t

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I found that with the blue coil, secondary resistance mattered. As in, a resistor rotor, resistor wires and resistor plugs would hesitate under heavy throttle, but switching out the rotor and the plugs to non- resistance completely cured the problem. Impedance matching at 10kv. Who knew? heh t

 

What?  Way over my head. :blink:

 

My car needs about 10 turns of the starter to fire up. Used to be 6 turns. I've seen tiis that start immediately, 1-2 turns. All timing, settings, fuel, etc. seem correct.  Once it's running, it's very smooth.

 

I'm always looking for the gremlin that's causing this anomaly.  Coil maybe?  Resistance?  Still looking.

 

Are we still on-topic?

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(I am not claiming to have a handle on all of this... just adding info)

 

The resistance of the rotor is typically written on the underside, so that is easy to check.  

 

R1 and R5 shown here.

 

063.jpg

 

 

Resistor plugs have an "R" in their number.

 

Some plug wires have resistors built into their ends as well.

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The R1 rotor came in a #164 vacuum advance distributor (which was stock in '76).

The R5 was in a #002, mechanical advance only (that came installed on my engine).

I am using the R1 now in the #164 and went back to points/condenser, after trying Pertronix for a bit.

 

I asked the FAQ why they were different and was told that the larger contact was to accommodate the increased advance associated with the vacuum pod.  

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