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Guest Anonymous

negative camber plate installation?

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Guest Anonymous

Negative camber plates arrived. No instructions so either

very straight forward or one has to experiment and do not

wish to do it twice? Any advise as to installation. they have 3

short bolts on one side and 3 long ones on the other and

each is marked L & R. From the mechanically and cash

challenged. Thanks.

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Guest Anonymous

They should all have short bolts. If you don't have a die-grinder you are kinda screwed. You need to grind out (preferrably with a grinding bit, not cutting wheel), or precision cut, a part of the strut mounting area. It's all mostly on the inside area. Otherwise, as you will see, the body of the car will cut into the shock mount, or not fit at all.

Good Luck.

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Guest Anonymous

these are fixed camber plates, right?

pretty straight forward to install

they work together with stock upper strut mount bearings, you have to knock out the three existing studs on each of the stock strut mounts, then attach the fixed camber plate to the strut mount using the three short studs. The top of the fixed camber plate then has three longer studs that attach to the body (same as the OE strut mount did). The left & right hand parts should result in the top of the struts to be offset inward (more negative camber) and slightly rearward (more positive caster).

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Guest Anonymous

they came from top end performance. nearly a c-buck.

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Guest Anonymous

Yes, they are fixed. So, I take it that the studs on the normal

strut mounts bearings are toast--knock them out of the body

of the upper strut bearings and they will yield willingingly

without major distortion? or is this a cash cow?

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Guest Anonymous

got mine from same place. Got the studs out out of the top bearing. one good tap! studs ( on new plates) and existing holes do not line up correctly on mine either. I'm not cutting into perfectly good body. now what?!

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Guest Anonymous

I just did this on a 3.0CS and what works well is to place the upper strut bearing on a vice with the jaws just open enough to let the stud pass through when you whack it with a big hammer, but reinforce the bearing plate surface to prevent warping or denting. (doesn't take as much force as you'd think to get them out, so be carefull.) You don't need to put the whole thing in the vise, just put the edge with the stud over the jaws opening...three little whacks later and you're set.

I used the kit from La Jolla independent for the CS and it was a good fit, even with a W&N strut brace.

HTH

-s

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