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Guest Anonymous

OEM air cleaner bottom plate adapted for Webers..

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Guest Anonymous

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32/36, or 38/38. I used this on both. i am selling this entire set up and took pictures because someone asked me to do so. so here are the shots. the plate is connected to the carb by 4 brass machine screws you can see in one shot. The rig uses a K&N ring air cleaner. I received 1 call for this whole set up and will give the fellow a day to confirm stuff. If it falls through, i will repost ad cuz as i look at all the goodies, i realized it is a hell of a deal! BUT this is free to my friends: the adaptation so you can get nice cold air through your snorkel ( RAM) and not have to use a puny K and N rig like i have now on my 40/40: Here is the money shot....standard.jpg note rivets are used..... here is a close up.....standard.jpg and another perspective.....standard.jpg and note the carb with the screws.....standard.jpg and another shot of the cleaner rig....note you must use rivets to hold your custom made bottom to the air cleaner. make sure they are good: loose rivet into carb = bad day.......standard.jpg and that should about do it for those of you who wanted to see the set up.

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Guest Anonymous

First off, nice simple design. I like it. My questions are, where does the filter lay on the housing in relation to the rivets? I'm asking because it seems like if you could locate them in a place that wouldn't interfere with the filter you could attach the rivets from the underside and not have to worry about any coming loose (they'd fall out, not in). I don't think its that big a deal anyway, just a thought.

My other question is, would you mind if I added your design to my website to go along with the weber adapter setup? It would be nice to show two different approaches.

Dan

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Guest Anonymous

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1. the filter lays on top of the rivet ring. that is the only k and n ring filter that i could get that fits into the oem cleaner.Since I only use K and N stuff, I dont know where the OEM Mahle or whaytever filter would lay. It should not be a problem. just have to not exceed clampable height. I strongly recommend to use rivets, nothing else. Rivets rarely break unless they are loaded. These are not really loaded with any weight. They hold the bottom nice and tight- no air leaks. using another attachment system, (other than a weld which would be optimal probably), would create parts that would come loose from vibration, heat sinking, etc. Everyone i talked to about this set-up said rivets were the way to go. Just keep an eye on them ( like when you clean your k and n filter ) and take the whole air cleaner off and inspect the botom.It is all part of conscientious ownership and preventative maintenance, IMHO. 2: no problem: go ahead and add to this to your site ( what is URL?), just give me credit where it is due. Hopefully more poeople will be able to do this and benefit from it. I have been talking about it for 7 years, and k and n has probably sold a gazillion air filter rectangle boxes in the meantime to 32/36, 38/38 owners who could use this system, and who are using hot engine bay air through tiny k and n filters. Sure: This system delimits engine bay access: but it is OEM design. Looks proper and can hide significantly more carb than a 1 barrel Solex.

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Guest Anonymous

I am using an ITG filter setup, but it also uses hot engine compartment air. I wonder (will measure) if I could get it into the stock housing.

How do you cut such a nice outline of the Weber?

Do you sell this as an assembly? For some reason I'm reluctant to cut up my stock housing, even when I'm not using it.

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Guest Anonymous

mikem's comment "I think that it needs to be pretty rigid to be supported by the small Weber bolt pattern instead of the stock rubber shock mounts around the perimeter" is a good one. The air cleaner housing transmits a lot of load and vibration to the carb due to its large mass moment around the small bolt span and also due to vibration conducted through the rubber intake bellows. I have one car set up like this, and the housing bolts, carb half bolts, and carb base bolts constantly loosen, sometimes even with loctite. When I replace this worn-out 32/36 with a 38, I will switch to the stock side brackets and rubber isolators.

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Guest Anonymous

I WISH I COULD FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST PICTURES .

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Guest Anonymous

Host them at Roadfly or Yahoo.

What kind of places spot weld stuff?

Would a muffler shop welder just burn through the sheet metal?

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Guest Anonymous

with small lock washers. Since I started using them on my 3 '02s a couple years ago I've had no problems.

If you can't find them locally they're available from Carl @ LaJolla Independent.

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Guest Anonymous

pretty close to that. Any good weldor would be able to adapt and weld what you need.

another option is to get a small torch (propane, map gas, etc) from walmart/homedepot/wherethehellever for around $30 and just braze it yourself. just like soldering but stronger, not as strong as welding, but would work great in this application as there are no pushing/pulling forces etc on the parts you just want to "glue" it together.

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Guest Anonymous

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20 bucks a year. tons of space, easy to upload right from camera to site, or from puter to sight, via scanner. it has been great. I dump all my pics there, then take my time editing out bad ones and captioning good ones, blah... fototime.com. makes posting pics in body of board posts real easy too. cuz it can give a url address for each pic. have not figureed out how to show a series of pics automatically onthe board like dubois does. but he is more skilled at this puter stuff than me. i dont use the roadfly link cuz i never get it to work properly and i dont like the ads, etc. rather pay a few bucks and have it my way.

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Guest Anonymous

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and take measurements of wholething for you guys before i packit and ship it to its new daddy. then you can all make one .

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