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1600-2 clicking under shifter linkage


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Hi all,


After doing a complete under carriage upgrade I finally have her down on the ground.  Driving in first and reverse everything sounds smooth.  In 2nd and 3rd an increased clicking sound occurs while driving very slowly.  Would be worse at speeds.  I did replace the shifter linkage with a kit and it definitely stiffened up the shifter.  There is a thick foam donut that was holding the linkage down a bit from the tunnel where the shifter goes through.  I loosened the bolts on the diagonal brace and pushed upward and retightened.  I thing/though I had enough clearance.  The noise persists and "sounds" like right underneath the shifter and maybe another clicking just forward of the shifter.  There is a very slight line around the driveshaft right at the shifter linkage.  As you shift from first to second the shifter linkage moves and seems to get closer to the driveshaft.  I would think since the driveshaft is smooth I would hear a consistent rubbing and not a clicking sound.  Anyway, going out again and see what I can see.  Since I had the driveshaft out, all new guibos installed, I'm sure that these might be related too...  Any obvious problems that you all have seen?  Thanks!  Paul

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Here's what you do: go buy a xxl hose clamp at your favorite hardware or autoparts store.

Without disassembling anything wrap the clamp around your quibo and tighten to firm only. Loosen ALL the guibo bolts. Now tighten the hose clamp A LOT. Re-tighten your guibo bolts.


Likely your guibo is expanded too much and subsequently your hardware hits the shifter shaft or edge of the shifter shaft housing. This method pulls the hardware in closer to the center.


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Hi Paul, 

Very interesting!  Please explain how this works.  If the holes for the guibo line up with the holes in the tranny how does "moving" in the guibo holes work?  Do the bolts slightly angle differently?  I should be able to see something hitting, correct?  Thanks!  Paul

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My guibo's didn't come with them.  They are different than guibos for later models.  And are VERY expensive!  No bands and I didn't read anywhere to compress them.  That could be the trick!  By the way, 6 bolts vs 8...

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Hi all, thanks for your responses!  Here is a shot of one of the guibos and the new shifter kit.  The foam donut was thick and I pressed the linkage up compressing the foam donut as much as possible.  It did clear the driveshaft up in the air.  Just two days ago I loosened the bolts on the diagonal brace and was able to compress it even more.  I will look tomorrow at the guibo and spin the driveshaft looking for indications... Paul, do you think your hose clamp trick will work on this?





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Although your shifter foam looks incorrect, and may be stressing the shifter platform and transmission mount I don't think it interferes with the linkage and dshaft.


The later model replacement guibos come with a steel band to keep it compressed.  This also allows it to line up easily with the holes in the flanges. Once everything is assembled and tightened the band is removed. The guibo holds the compressed shape at this point.   An uncompressed guibo is slightly expanded and can cause rubbing (ticking).


Do I see shredding on the edges of your guibo?  Do I see a flat spot on the shifter input sleeve? 


All you probably need is 1/8" of clearance to solve the problem.   Also, compressing the guibo will likely make your bolts slide through EVEN EASIER!

I think this will work for you.  6...8 bolts...shouldn't matter.  Hey, it's only the cost of a hose clamp.  Good luck.

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picture you included in post #11 I assume is the old one. Get a new OEM foam, replace trans mount with upgraded one. How old are the engine mounts?

Also, look at shift shaft rod and any sign of rubbing while under car.

original foam



Trans on the bench with homemade band and large hose clamp


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HI all,


Great to wake up to many responses!  Everything, and I mean everything, underneath has been replaced with new.  Tranny mounts, shifter kit, all new guibos, engine mounts, every other mount, bushing, springs, shocks, sway bars, brakes, steering coupler, steering box, and whatever else I am forgetting.  I did a complete undercarriage upgrade.  I am a novice at this so things could be wrongly installed.  Biggest noob mistake was not marking the driveshafts so I have a 25% chance now that it is as it was...  Guibos came from Germany and are OEM.  $156 or so each!  Yes, that is the old one in the photo.


The foam for the shifter is new.  I don't remember a metal sleeve in it though.  The foam certainly isn't centered on the shifter body hole but it does go underneath as I have it, correct?


I will jack the car up today and take a good look while rotating the driveshaft.  I will also make a 2x4 "straight edge" and see how it turns.  Am I assuming right that clearances should be the same whether the car is on the ground or up in the air?  With all new motor mounts, tranny mounts, diff mounts, rear subframe mounts, etc?


What I really want/need is for a shop to go through the car front to rear to check all my work and make sure everything is correct.  I know it's not rocket science but with limited experience (especially being new to these cars), and not any special BMW tools, I put everything went together using photos, literature, these forums, books, etc, so things should be close.


I will take good photos today and post later on.  Thank you all for giving good ideas.  And yes, I will try the hose clamp too!


Cheers!  Paul

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