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Taking the 02 apart. Word of wisdom?


MildSeven

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Intro

 

...before winter I brought the 2002 to a paint shop (which I've known to be inexpensive) for a quote to fix up my rust issues and re-spray the entire thing. They quoted me $4k and that's because I said I'd remove and re-install all trim, windows and engine myself, to save a few pennies (plus I enjoy doing these things). I was hoping for a quote of like $3k, no dice.

 

After leaving that paint shop I started to think, how much will this thing cost me? Do I really want to get into spending all this money on an old car? I was doubting my 2002 ownership, I even posted the car "for sale" on a local car enthusiast website (not kijiji or other classified sites because I wasn't truly sold on the idea).

 

I a lot of lip from a couple of friends, who themselves are also trying to buy “3rd, for fun" cars. I say "trying" because lovely wives are always a factor :P.

 

I received an email from a guy who was interested in purchasing the 02, I felt bad about informing him I had decided to keep it. It’s def not a ‘smart decision’ but smart decisions are never fun. I told him if he was in the market for an 02 he could swing by and take a look and we could 'shoot the shit.' There aren't many 2002s in Montreal (especially ones that are for sale), so at least it would give him an idea of what the car is all about and what to look for..etc.

 

My 2 buddies said they'd give me a hand dissembling the car (their reliability might be in question, remains to be seen), which is great, I'm sure we'll have a good time in the process. I enjoy working on things but at the end of the day, I’m paying for it.

 

/long intro

 

Going to start taking apart the 2002 on Saturday... I am worried that this will take years to complete but am trying to stay positive, I really hope I can drive it towards the end of the summer but realistically doubt it. I plan on doing a compression test to know where I stand with the motor before removing the battery and starting the tear down.

What things should I be thinking about during the dismantling/rebuilding? Any advice?

  • I will be taking tons of photos, labeling everything and bagging all smaller parts.

I figure now would also be a good time to do some upgrades, refreshers, etc... I want the car to look good but also perform well for some fun, quick driving maybe even a few laps (which I’d love to do, not so sure though).

  • I already have a rear-strut (with battery slot) to be installed, I will also get a front strut bar.
  • I’d like to add a front/rear sway
  • I want to buy a throttle linkage which doesn’t look like it was “thrown together.”
  • All the seals need changing, I already got a quote on those from the always helpful blunt.
  • Plan on redoing fuel lines and will reseal fuel tank. The fuel small kills me.
  • Suspension bushings?

I’ll be posting my progress on here and as usual, doing a lot or search button clicking.

So that’s my story... I welcome any advice you guys might have.

 

Thanks,

Anthony

 

2002 Background:

I bought the ’76 2002 in January 2014 from Smitty in Toronto.

 

Here are the engine specs from what he told me... It doesn’t feel like it has the 130 or so hp (I read) it should be producing... but maybe I’ve just become accustom to more power.

 

- 1969 M10 block w/ 121ti head

- Weber DCOE 45 - Warnforn Manifold

- Crane ignition

- Ireland 292 cam

- 10:1 compression ratio

- E12 valves w/ 1800TiSA valve springs

- Mechanical timing chain tensioner

- 2000ti-style air-box

- Ireland step header

- E30 M3 starter

- Electric aux fan

- Upgraded fuel system with FPR and Bavaria pump

 

 

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Coupla thoughts--as I'm sure you know, you already have front and rear sway bars; suggest replacing with 22mm front and 19mm rear, with urethane mount and link bushings.  Using urethane bushings here won't harshen your ride as using 'em in the suspension will.  Replace the suspension bushings with factory rubber ones unless you want a really harsh ride (or are gonna track it).  And if they've never been replaced, it's time.  

 

Fuel lines (tank to firewall) are a special plastic that will collapse and self-seal if heated (like in a fire).  Don't replace with ordinary plastic tubing.  Do replace the short rubber sections at the tank and forward of the firewall with US-mad rubber hose, not the cloth-covered German stuff--it hides cracks and leaks.  

 

Check archives for well-engineered throttle linkage used on sidedrafts.  Some FAQers have come up with very good ones.

 

Above all, don't lose faith/hope when the car is all apart and looking like a junkheap.  Like a caterpillar in a cocoon, it will emerge (after a lot of hard work on your part) as a beautiful butterfly.  If you give up partway, you will have done all the really hard, dirty work for someone else!

 

cheers, and happy tinkering

 

mike 

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Coupla thoughts--as I'm sure you know, you already have front and rear sway bars; suggest replacing with 22mm front and 19mm rear, with urethane mount and link bushings.  Using urethane bushings here won't harshen your ride as using 'em in the suspension will.  Replace the suspension bushings with factory rubber ones unless you want a really harsh ride (or are gonna track it).  And if they've never been replaced, it's time.  

 

Fuel lines (tank to firewall) are a special plastic that will collapse and self-seal if heated (like in a fire).  Don't replace with ordinary plastic tubing.  Do replace the short rubber sections at the tank and forward of the firewall with US-mad rubber hose, not the cloth-covered German stuff--it hides cracks and leaks.  

 

Check archives for well-engineered throttle linkage used on sidedrafts.  Some FAQers have come up with very good ones.

 

Above all, don't lose faith/hope when the car is all apart and looking like a junkheap.  Like a caterpillar in a cocoon, it will emerge (after a lot of hard work on your part) as a beautiful butterfly.  If you give up partway, you will have done all the really hard, dirty work for someone else!

 

cheers, and happy tinkering

 

mike 

Thanks mike... I appreciate the advice and good word.

 

Why not 22mm in the rear as well?

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For me these old cars are a hobby :)

 

I did a complete refresh of a 1973 Bavaria 3.0s a couple of years ago which was purchased $1100.  Four years later and after a full paint job, efi and 5 speed conversion, front suspension refresh, re-upholstering front and rear seats, new headliner and carpet.  The grand total was well over $11k and not including all of the man hours I personally spent on it.

 

Was it all worthwhile in the end?  In the context of this being a hobby for me, yes.  Financially speaking, not so much.  If I had bought a E9 coupe or an alfa GTV that needed a full restoration, I may have broken even :)

 

 

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/gallery/image/3072-00y0y-17wamebgs2-600x450/

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My only comment would be to look out for the syndrome I experience all too frequently... the "As Long I'm Here" syndrome. You can tell you have this going on if your wallet is shrinking, your timeline is increasing, and your better-half keeps yelling "You don't NEED another engine!"

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$4K is a good deal. You'll understand that once you get the car totally dismantled and see the amount of repair, prep, and painting that's required. The shop may even complain that they under-quoted.

YES, bag and tag EVERYTHING. Clean all parts thoroughly. Most metal parts can be soaked in citrus type cleaner to refresh.

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taking it apart is easy.  you can field strip a 2002 down to a shell in a weekend if you go slow....

 

take thousands of pictures and bag all the nuts and bolts.   (there are over 2,000 pictures posted in my pbucket folder of my build)

 

two approaches...

 

you can do it all at once (see jgerock's wannabe ti thread).  great way to  do it, but you have to be patient as it will take a while.

 

or you can do it in stages (see my build thread)  i drove it each summer, and had planned phases of redo every winter.  six months of burning up tires and gas and six months of twisting wrenches each year.  5 years in, still have several phases to go!
 

either way.. EMBRACE SCOPE CREEP!  (aka, "as long as i am in here").  it is inevitable.   accept that it will happen and recognise that if you don't do it now, you will end up having to take it apart again later to do it then...... :D  :D :D  

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Thanks everyone for the advice...I really appreciate it all and will definitely consider it while working on the 2002.

 

For me these old cars are a hobby :)

 

I did a complete refresh of a 1973 Bavaria 3.0s a couple of years ago which was purchased $1100.  Four years later and after a full paint job, efi and 5 speed conversion, front suspension refresh, re-upholstering front and rear seats, new headliner and carpet.  The grand total was well over $11k and not including all of the man hours I personally spent on it.

 

Was it all worthwhile in the end?  In the context of this being a hobby for me, yes.  Financially speaking, not so much.  If I had bought a E9 coupe or an alfa GTV that needed a full restoration, I may have broken even :)

 

 

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/gallery/image/3072-00y0y-17wamebgs2-600x450/

 

Yes, that's the thing.. this will become a big fun/dreadful learning experience. I know it's a horrible financial decision but I'm 33 so I can put in an extra year before retirement if it gets out of control ;)

 

isnt this a very clean red/verona car w/ steelies?...I recall smitty.


shesh..i woulda thunk the car was fine as is for a few yrs?

and 130 hp never feels like 130...lol,........theres just not much to feel.

 

Yes, it's in decent shape... the paint looks nice from far... but is cracked to hell close up, the rear shock towers are rotting a little more than I'd like + there's a hole under the driver's side + a rear fender needs some rust attention.

 

I did a whole bunch of repairs after buying it to be able to drive it without worries last summer but in all fairness, I could have driven it as it was.

 

Despite everyone telling me to keep those Porsche Steelies... they were really freakin heavy and the rears would rub more than I like.

 

 

The rear strut brace belongs in your neighbor's pool. And the battery, as an AGM under the back seat. :)

 

My $0.02.

 

Cheers and good luck!

 

It's more to help with rigidity... but if it's useless. I picked-it up from the guy who sold me the euro-turns because he offered it for a few extra bucks since he had it laying around.

 

I like the under the seat thought. any AGM recommendations?

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The teardown to get to the paint shop goes quickly, I did that to my third 2002 in 2003. took it apart in May got it back from the paint shop in September. Get a firm timeline from the paint shop as to when it will be ready. Same shop[ sat on my E9 for 6 months. I'm restoring a 71' right now. Its been a year and I'm just getting the engine back in the car after a complete overhaul. Painted the engine bay while it was out of the car. Some things are better when simmered slowly taking your time to get it right

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The rear strut area may well be the strongest part of the car.

 

I know the Miata AGM battery has been recommended in the past. Dimensions shown here. http://www.amazon.com/BatteryMart-com-Mazda-MIATA-Battery/dp/B0038N1VD6

 

That pic appears to show vent ports, tho AGMs are sealed as noted in the description.

 

... The AGM I have is a little big and we cut some springs out of the rear seat above it (terminals are facing the rear as situated). It's been in there 5 years now...

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+1 for all of the above AND take more pictures and make more notes than you think is reasonable.  In some cases I have taken photo's, printed them and then made notes (re-scanned and saved).  Things take longer sometimes than one might think.....and the memory fades.  My car was taken apart by someone else and then sent to me in boxes and bags.  What nightmare.  I am Still (12 years later) figuring some stuff out.  Good luck with your project.

 

http://www.alpinabmw2002.com

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thanks for the advice, again... and thanks for the info ray.

 

We started taking a few things apart on Saturday it went pretty smoothly... although I'm starting to fear that I haven't taken enough photos. I think I'll go through them today and write some notes.

 

 

I did one big screw up, when doing the compression test, I didn't open the throttle :(. Stupid, I know.

 

 I did the dry test, then the wet then I realized the I should have had the throttle open. Are my numbers useless? The spark plugs were carbone'ie and even a little wet.

 

 

 

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