engine and drivetrain Nifty Tool. Alternative Tii Oil Pan Removal Method

[PaulTWinterton]

Removing the tii oil pan is especially hard because the alternator is in the way when trying to lift the engine up (to clear the oil pump inside the pan).

 

This tool and the advice of a veteran BMW mechanic allowed me to remove the oil pan in record time.

 

 

Remove:

- Air cleaner

-185mmThrottle rod

- Alternator

- Radiator

- Distributor cap

- Outer (lower) engine mount bolts

- Battery

 

Loosen but do not remove:

 

- Downpipe to center muffler

- Oil pan bolts (optional)

 

Lift engine 2-3" with engine lift connected to front of engine only.  Remove pan.

 

 

This also fell out when I lifted the engine.

 

I'm happy it fell out.  Tells me that my engine was flopping around.  Hopefully I'll feel the difference with a new mount next time I'm driving.

Edited January 23, 2015 by PaulTWinterton

[M3M3]

Yes. That is the right tool for that job and engine mount replacement.

Can be made with 4x4's, but real one works better.

[eurotrash]

Indeed.  That is a nice unit.  But I have done it twice with two towels, two bricks, a 4x4 and a ratchet strap.

[DonP]

Agreed, great tool! 

 

Used mine to remove the front subframe in the M3 to get it reinforced and powdercoated.

[jgerock]

I looked at one from Amazon and Harbor Freight when I did my oil pan / partial rebuild but cheaped out and used the wood/chain method.

 

Glad you got it figured out.

[PaulTWinterton]

Hey Jim,

 

It was because of your comments that I removed my alternator. Why fight it I thought.  So I sent it out to be refreshed while I'm waiting for parts. 

 

What I also learned is that you only need to lift the front of the engine.  And not very much. 

[jgerock]

One reason I didn't remove the alternator is I had recently replaced it with a rebuilt unit and didn't want to remove yet another part from the engine. The battery tray in my car was welded in (rather poorly) after the nose was replaced years ago.  Wish all of them were bolted in place like my 69.

 

For those folks trying to lift the engine using the flat section of the front fenders as the base of your "hoist", I'd rethink that location especially if the fenders were replaced with newer ones.  They may not be as strong as the originals.  

[PaulTWinterton]

I positioned the beam on the vertical inner fender seams.  The flat of the outer fender is 'bendable' if you push with a thumb.  CAREFUL!   I wasn't going to put a couple of hundred pounds on it. 

 

I watched very closely as I was winching up the engine to make sure there was no distortion of the inner fenders.

[PaulTWinterton]

Finished the job!  Interestingly I only had to raise the front of the engine 2" to slide the pan out and back in (diagonally).  I assembled the pan with the gasket and sealant on the bench and then slid it into position on the diagonal to miss the oil pump. Then I pivoted it into position without hitting anything.  A joy.

 

New motor mount while I was at it.

 

 

 

 

[peterschop]

Job well done. Did you have to unbolt the oil pump  to get the pan off?

[PaulTWinterton]

Did you have to unbolt the oil pump to get the pan off?

 

There was no need to unbolt the pump.  I REALLY didn't want to do that.

 

Raising just the front of the engine 2" was enough to pull the pan out and to the left.  The pump squeaks by the right rear corner of the pan with 1/2" to spare.  Going in was just as easy.

 

I borrowed the lift from a former BMW technician.  He explained that back in the day this was the method to change pans and engine mounts.  Very quick and fewer parts to disconnect.

 

He also said that they used this lift method for doing "in-house" engine rebuilds.  Raise the front of the engine, drop the pan, and disconnect rods and bearings.

Edited January 31, 2015 by PaulTWinterton