Sign in to follow this  
Guest Anonymous

my heater sucks-really-it does.......

8 posts in this topic Last Reply

Recommended Posts

Guest Anonymous

.....the fan spins backwards. How in blazes would that

happen? Backing up a bit, this is a heater out of the 73 Tii

parts car. I'm totally rebuilding my original one. However,

they are mechanically identical. I have installed this one to

get me by for cold weather-NO! no salt!! If I recall my DC

theory (and application-I'm an electrician-geez) if I reverse

the leads on the fan itself it should reverse the dc motor. But-

how did it get backwards in the first place?? There is no way

that I know of that I could wire it wrong. There's a ground

(brwn) and three switched leads that hook up to resistors of

increasing, er, resistance. The terminals are polarity specific

and besides, if I had it backwards only one speed would

work. Is there anything about this that I am missing?? PS-for

those looking for leaks, this is the second heater I've had with

a leaky on/off valve. I just installed a piece of copper tubing in

it's place for a "full on" condtion for the cold season. Also-

lubing the defroster and heat vent cables does wonders for

them-Smooooth now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

Strangest thing Ive heard of, first thing I thought was wired wrong but....I gotta believe you...do you believe in ghosts? Surely the blade wasent placed on backwards? naaa..Ghosts!thats it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

it's the ever present germanic gnomes....

if you treat em right you'll never have to wax your 02.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

somewhere in it's po's history the heater box must have been

rebuilt. When the mechanic (hah!) re-assembled the box he

must have installed the two factory wires that go from the

resistor unit to the fan-yes-backwards. I say this because the

red and brown wires have a factory attached, polarity correct,

spade and anti-spade (don't know what you call it) on each

end of each wire. You could attach one end of the wire to

itself to make a circle-get it? Anyway, The guy must have

attached them backwards to the resistor and then likewise to

the fan. Then the fan spun backwards. Why the HELL anyone

didn't notice this is beyond me. Must have been a verry cold

winter for po. Because I didn't want want to crack the box

open I simply cut off the factory terminals (arghh) and

crimped on new. Works like a charm. NOW I can't seem to get

coolant flow through the heater box. No heat even when the

engine is warm. I have removed the shut off valve entirely so

that's not it. I also checked the stat-works. Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

hot air too:)! At least this year I won't freeze my arse off

driving down and back to Arkansas. Having a defroster will

be nice too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

Hi Bob,

What did you do to finally get heat? I have a similar problem.

After I installed my used engine and fired it up, I noticed that I could not shut the heat off. I found that the heater control valve was not controlling. So I installed a new one. Carefully checked that it was installed correctly so the valve opens or shuts as I move the temperature control lever.

Didn't even think about it again for a while, as I was installing carpet, shocks etc. Now I fire it up again, and I'm not getting any heat.

Does this cooling system need to be bled, like some of the newer ones do? I have a coolant recovery tank sitting in the corner that I could install, but this system doesn't look like bleeding is needed or possible.

Any other ideas - yes I know, check that valve again - I can't believe that the heater core blocked overnight, just like that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

some little time (several miles of driving) to burp the heater. Are you absolutely sure the heater control lever is installed correctly? It's real easy to install the lever (on the valve) upside down so that pushing the control lever (on the dash) towards the red actually closes the valve and vice versa. Ask me how I know this! If you're not sure, look at another car to verify. If it's in correctly, I would suspect an air bubble that hasn't burped out yet.

cheers

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

....that there was an air bubble. Mine worked fine one day-I

messed around with the water/antifreeze levels when I had to

remove the core due to the backwards fan-then it didn't work.

I ended up draining the water out to check for flow. I replaced

one cracked hose, filled it up and viola-it works great. Try it

agin today and drive it like Mike said. If that doesn't work-pull

the lower hose, drain, and refill. See if that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this