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Phase One - Ze donor car.


blackmesa533i

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Hey guys,

 

So I took a step towards completing some of my goals in upgrades for my new-found obsession for the little 02. I went ahead and found myself a 01/82 e21 donor for the 5 speed and the basketweaves. I'll be doing the big brakes up front from IE (had a little trouble downtown with my brakes going out, what fun that was) and also the 5 speed swap.  I'm not sure if theres anything on this car that I could move over to the 02 other than those things since I'm keeping my old motor and not sure if it would be a good idea taking the e21 head and going with the mechanical FI...

 

I also have a dilemma on de-smogging my car. I recently had spent some time at the DMV getting a mistake changed on my registration...car was registered as a 76 but was a 75 built in march. That has now been taken care of and she needs to have the smog equipment taken off. So thats added to the list!

 

After I am done with taking the trans out and switching the wheels I will have no use for the e21..so if anyone is interested just let me know. engine runs fine and I'm sure someone could have a project with it. If anyone has any pointers on de-smogging, I am grateful. Otherwise I will be reading up on the subject with some of the info already on here.

 

I actually have found a liking in the e21, possibly more than the e30 I once owned. Here it is. Thanks for reading guys, any input is welcome and possibly appreciated!

 

-Peter

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I'd be interested in the story of how you convinced the DMV to change the registration on your car from 1976 to 1975, as most of the cars registered in 1976 were actually built in 1975.

 

Smog removal

I just completed this process on my 1975 and it completely transformed the car.

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smog harness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

Good luck,

 

 

Mark92131

 

 

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I'd be interested in the story of how you convinced the DMV to change the registration on your car from 1976 to 1975, as most of the cars registered in 1976 were actually built in 1975.

 

Smog removal

I just completed this process on my 1975 and it completely transformed the car.

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smog harness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

Good luck,

 

 

Mark92131

Wow thanks a lot, I didn't expect to get such a detailed writeup on this...there's much to be done from the looks of it but can't wait to see how she runs after all is dialed in and removed. 

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Those E21 fog lights will look good mounted below the bumper on your '75--and the inside rear view mirror is larger than the 02's and snaps in place very easily--direct replacement.

 

And if the 82 has sport seats, they will almost bolt in to your '75 if you're so inclined.  If not, sell 'em to someone on the FAQ.

 

mike

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Those E21 fog lights will look good mounted below the bumper on your '75--and the inside rear view mirror is larger than the 02's and snaps in place very easily--direct replacement.

 

And if the 82 has sport seats, they will almost bolt in to your '75 if you're so inclined.  If not, sell 'em to someone on the FAQ.

 

mike

I would have been very pleased if this was the 320is with the sport seats but unfortunately they are just brown leather..maybe someone out there would want them still. As for the fog lights, I would have to take a look at some pictures to make my decision if they look right, I have seen 02s with them but always been a fan of the round fog lights on top of the bumper.

 

That rear view mirror upgrade is something I will do, I have the car in the shop lot so I'll pull it off when I'm out there, thanks for the advice mike.

 

I'll have to post a parts for sale ad later in the month for the rest of the E21, maybe create a profile on their forum. great working engine..Im sure theres plenty of other parts that are desirable like interior pieces and glass.

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Leave the lights on the bumper and move the whole thing over. I have read that it is pretty much a plug and play swap putting the e21 bumper on and the couture lines match better than the 02 bumper. 

 

I have an e21 motor in my car sans the fuel injection.

I've seen a couple of pictures of this and yea I think this might be the way to go. I'm sure the rear doesn't matter though...

 

So did you switch over to the 1.8 for any particular reason? Or was it the straight 6? I'm not having too much trouble with the original motor on the 02 other than some seals leaking probably from just time and also PO using wrong oil...high mileage probably. The e21 motor in the car is strong though, should take some videos of it running and stuff before pulling the trans incase anyone wants it.

 

I've seen that e21 on craigslist. east bay right? I was going to pick it up, but I dont have space to keep it. Good luck!

Yessireebob, drove it from Richmond all the way down to Milpitas in traffic. The guy had gotten the car for free and just had too many cars to start out with. Thank you, I plan to freshen up the trans and use the basketweaves and front bumper but other than that..I dont need anything else.

 

And while on the subject of the e21, can I use the driveshaft from it on the 02 without needing to shorten it? I've heard mixed answers about this question, I was told by someone who's been an 02 mechanic for longer than I've been alive that I can use it with no problem, just needs to be the one with the right splines...

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So did you switch over to the 1.8 for any particular reason? Or was it the straight 6? I'm not having too much trouble with the original motor on the 02 other than some seals leaking probably from just time and also PO using wrong oil...high mileage probably. The e21 motor in the car is strong though, should take some videos of it running and stuff before pulling the trans incase anyone wants it.

 

 

My motor came from a 320 which has the same 2 liter block as the 02 with the e21 head which I think was also on the 76 models. It was done by the PO for reasons not known to me. It has the 02 exhaust and intake manifold with the 32/36. 

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Don't know why I thought all the blocks on the e21 4cyl were 1.8's. If I had room I would pull and save the 320 engine, it runs just fine. I would keep it in the shop but the engine dolly is already occupied and not trying to maneuver another motor around in the alignment bay..

 

I'm on the lookout for some used headers and a non-smog intake. 

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Maybe put an add in the FS section. It could be a cheaper alternative to a rebuild for someone. Shame to see it go to waist. Let them pull it.

Oh yea, it will be up for sale but only local pull yourself. But probably will sell with the whole rolling car minus the trans and it will have the 02 steelies. 

 

Keep your driveshaft - at least the front section that attaches to the transmission. You'll need to have the 2002 shaft shortened using a portion of the front 320i shaft on the front end of the 02 shaft.

Thanks Tom, I'll probably keep the driveshaft when I pull the trans until I do the whole swap so I'll keep in mind to save that section for the job.

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