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What Replacement Panels Will I Need?


bwingate

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I have been in the slow process of fixing a couple of rust holes in the passenger floorboards.  One was right at the outboard sidewall and I knew that I needed to get the fender off to get better access to this hole to patch it.

 

What I found was this:

 

Right Fender Rust Closer   Marked Up

 

Assuming, correctly, that I know very little about body work, the exact panels that make up the body and that I'm going slow because I am afraid of totally screwing up the car.  This is probably the worse area of rust on the car.  There is similar but lesser damage on driver's side, but the rest of the car is relatively sound.

 

My first question is, based on the picture, it looks like I need 3 replacement panels:  the right supporting strut (in red), the right covering plate column (in blue) and the a pillar (in orange)  I also will need a right fender support, not shown.

 

So now my this questions:

1)  Are those actually the panels that I need?

2)  It seems that I'll have to remove the supporting strut, covering plate and then the a-pillar and then put them back in the reverse order, do I have that right?

3)  When I remove the a-pillar, should I brace the passenger doorway when I am doing this?

 

Thanks everyone - I'm off to do some more research on a-pillar replacement.

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A few years ago, I'd have said go find a better shell, but that's getting harder and harder to do.

 

If you REALLY want to teach yourself how to do metalwork, this is a project for you.  If the idea of potentially spending

the rest of the winter on this makes your teeth hurt, don't even start.

 

The rust you show is pretty bad- those panels define the loading path of the front inner fenders

and distribute the load into the rest of the shell.  So you'll need to measure and secure the nose

to the floor, the rockers to the floor, and brace the door.  Then start cutting carefully.  There are several

more panels you'll find inside, and I have no idea what availability's like these days.  Look at Walloth and Nesch,,

for a good place to start.  You want to make SURE that the heavy gauge panel inside's very sound-it's

your main load bearing member....

 

Also, if you can find someone locally to mentor you with this, it would be a big help.

when I learned, we were in a big rental place with a lot of other people who had

better metalworking skills than business sense, and I learned SO MUCH from them

pointing, laughing- and then hunkering down and offering real advice...

 

good luck,

t

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A few years ago, I'd have said go find a better shell, but that's getting harder and harder to do.

If you REALLY want to teach yourself how to do metalwork, this is a project for you. If the idea of potentially spending

the rest of the winter on this makes your teeth hurt, don't even start.

The rust you show is pretty bad- those panels define the loading path of the front inner fenders

and distribute the load into the rest of the shell. So you'll need to measure and secure the nose

to the floor, the rockers to the floor, and brace the door. Then start cutting carefully. There are several

more panels you'll find inside, and I have no idea what availability's like these days. Look at Walloth and Nesch,,

for a good place to start. You want to make SURE that the heavy gauge panel inside's very sound-it's

your main load bearing member....

Also, if you can find someone locally to mentor you with this, it would be a big help.

when I learned, we were in a big rental place with a lot of other people who had

better metalworking skills than business sense, and I learned SO MUCH from them

pointing, laughing- and then hunkering down and offering real advice...

good luck,

t

The main inner panel looks sound. This is a bigger project than I expected, but I think I can handle it.

Just a couple more questions. What do you mean to secure the rockers to the floor? Roughly between what points? Same thing for connecting the nose to the floor. Is this something that can be done with the engine and front suspension in place?

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I'm kind of new getting back to this forum and back to 2002's in general but the website mentioned

http://wallothnesch.com/

I tried to go on the other day to maybe order a part but I could not navigate it at all because it was all in German, and I speak a little German (very little).

However I did end up finding an OEM whole front nose panel from BMW of Bridgewater New Jersey for what I thought was incredible price of 800 bucks delivered I can't wait to get itI just hope I'll be able to install it.

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I'm kind of new getting back to this forum and back to 2002's in general but the website mentioned

http://wallothnesch.com/

I tried to go on the other day to maybe order a part but I could not navigate it at all because it was all in German, and I speak a little German (very little).

If you use the Google Chrome browser, it will recognize the website is in German and auto translate to English. Or click on the British flag in the upper right and you'll get the English version.

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I'm kind of new getting back to this forum and back to 2002's in general but the website mentioned

http://wallothnesch.com/

I tried to go on the other day to maybe order a part but I could not navigate it at all because it was all in German, and I speak a little German (very little)

 

If you sign up for their email, you  will get their specials in English. I just placed my first order with them yesterday. Right now the euro to dollar is at a 4 1/2 year low so you will get a good exchange rate.

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If you sign up for their email, you  will get their specials in English. I just placed my first order with them yesterday. Right now the euro to dollar is at a 4 1/2 year low so you will get a good exchange rate.

I used W&N when I got my floor pans.  Even though they are in Germany, the floors were cheaper with shipping than US companies without shipping.  They have weekly sales that might be useful, but I haven't needed anything from the sales yet.

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Take off the strut before you remove the strut support, so that the strut doesnt bend the inner fender up.

Thanks, this is super-helpful, because I originally was going to just remove that panel.  I spent an hour or so scratching my head looking at the panels this afternoon, and I don't think that I have to replace that whole panel - just a (large) portion of the left side. 

 

I am on the fence about replacing the whole a-pillar or replacing everything except basically the part with the hinges.  Only replacing part of it would save me a lot of measuring and potential problems. And honestly that part seems pretty solid.

 

I am trying to resist massive scope-creep that will turn this from "get it solid and running" to a full restoration on a rotisserie, but if I have to remove the engine or front suspension to get this repair done, then I am going to have to think long and hard about whether or not to add a year to the project and do a more thorough and complete restoration.

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I found part of the answer to my own question (while searching for something else - that wasn't quite related): 

 

http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/projects/front_column_100903.htm

 

Martin, a fellow FAQ'er, did a great write up on fixing this exact part.  Only thing not coverer is bracing the car, because his was on a rotisserie and already braced.

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I was going to say that I would support the car under the frame rails and under the front sub frame before cutting the metal out. This will keep car from sagging

I'm just starting to work out my plan, but I think I am going finish up patching up the floors then brace the interior. The open question is whether to remove the engine and sub frame or just the suspension. I'll have to figure that out when it gets closer and after I check the drivers side

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