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is the 1975 engine really a weenie roaster?


vairter

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I'm considering buying a 1975 base model (not tii) with manual transmission.  I've read in a few places that meeting the emissions requirements in this year really castrated the engine.   Is this true even if the emissions equipment has been removed? Or was the engine doomed no matter what because of the low compression? 

 

Is there a comprehensive listing somewhere of horsepower for the different years?

 

 

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All US spec carbureted 2002s have the same compression ratio from the factory (8:1) except the 68s and 69s, which were 8.3:1.  So the lowered performance on the 74s and 75s were due to the emissions stuff which included retarded ignition settings, vacuum retard distributors etc.  

 

Removing all that stuff (so long as you don't have a visual emission equipment inspection in your state for your year car), finding a non vacuum retard distributor or having yours recurved and perhaps adding a Weber 32/36 carb should make your engine perform as well as earlier ones with fewer emission hang-ons.  Oh, and try an lose that thermal reactor exhaust manifold.  It doesn't particularly hurt performance, but it's heavy, causes the cylinder head to run hot and will eventually break the exhaust manifold studs due to its weight.  As CD would say, take it off and throw it in the neighbor's pool.

 

cheers and happy retuning.

mike

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If you bring your car into California from another state, the only thing they look for at the DMV is that the VIN on the car matches the title. If your title says its a 75 model, you will not be required to get a smog test before you can register the car. The DMV rep will ask you to open the hood to see the VIN stamped on the body but the rep is not concerned with looking at your emissions equipment (or lack of). 76 and newer models are required to have a smog test before you can register the car.

 

G-Man

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  • 2 weeks later...

You will be very happy with your desmogged '75 and Weber 32/36 carb. My '76 seemed to have gained two extra cylinders worth of performance. Another thing: save all the smog parts and sell 'em on eBay - got about $400 for mine several years back. There are probably some "how to" posts here in the forum. Just do it! Other popular mods for your "Squarie" include shortening the bumper mounts and relocating battery to trunk. These mods will retain the original look.

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As Conkitchen says, it's that thermal reactor that makes such a good outdoor food preparation device.

 

Pull that off, and you're 80% of the way to doffing your chef's hat.

 

The rest of it's the usual desmog rigamarole that we all do- the guts of the engine are the same from

1972- 1976.

 

t

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I have a '70 and swapped in a '75 motor with dual 40's. My older motor with a 32/36 had waaaaay more torque and HP than the newer motor with dual carbs, Tii distributor, and Tii exhaust. Just my two cents...

that is not a 70 vs. 75 engine problem.  that is an internal state of the engines and how well the carbs were tuned problem.  

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As Conkitchen says, it's that thermal reactor that makes such a good outdoor food preparation device.

 

Pull that off, and you're 80% of the way to doffing your chef's hat.

 

The rest of it's the usual desmog rigamarole that we all do- the guts of the engine are the same from

1972- 1976.

 

t

+1

Amen. My thoughts exactly, but well said!

Steve

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Move to  Colorado, get vintage plates, and gut the smog crap out

Aren't they called "Collector Plates" and it's not a slam dunk if it is 1976 or newer.  1976 if it already had collector plates before Sept 1.2009. See 

http://www.colorado.gov/cs/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheader=application%2Fpdf&blobkey=id&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1251924173618&ssbinary=true

If anyone wants all the details.

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