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M42 swap - DONE!!


tashakes
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Today I finished adjusting the radiator height and throttle adjustment and ran the car a few miles. Man. What a smooth ride. I love the swap and if anyone is considering it, DO it! It is relatively easy and well documented (thanks to JakeB for the guide and mounts), anyone with basic mechanic skills and some good friends and beer to fuel them can do it.

I still have to figure out the tach, I already fried one adapter and am working another one. Also have to install the check engine light and the electronic speedo. But those are small weekend projects.

I also got the COP kit but the boots don't seem to fit, gotta figure that out.

I plan to have the A/C worked on, I kept the M42 compressor for that and most of the Clardy system was already in the car.

The exhaust is way too raspy, I only have a magnaflow muffler and will probably add a resonator to get it a little quieter.

Next are euro or roundie bumpers and back to a better paint job than the crap I got last year.

Anyway, here are some pics of the final results.

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post-39605-0-64184000-1416712457_thumb.j

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The biggest hurdles were:

-getting the shift platform and link cut to the right size.

-when installing the m42 clutch slave, the hose goes on the top and is hard to get to, once in, the top nut is almost impossible to reach. The hose has to be installed first because it is the only way to purge, lots of hours and raw knuckles.

-radiator needed bottom tabs cut off. Remove & replace. Twice.

-throttle cable tricky, once installed works fine.

Other than that, fairly simple job

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Hey,

Congrats on the success! The M42 is an awesome little monster.

 

For the tach adapter you'll need is 8920 and then hook up as follow:

- black to ground

- red to power source (hot in run usually)

- white from the c101 connector of the ECU (or to the wire that was originally on the cluster)

- and the purple to the tach spade connector

 

For the CEL, just hook up the C101 wire for CEL to the power source that supplies the power to the brake fluid level sensor and the ECU will do all the grounding from there on.

 

Sorry if you already knew this, just though I'd throw it out there.

 

Sheldon

Edited by speedyshel
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I finished mine recently (well mostly) and am not happy with the way the throttle worked out.  Did you do the throttle like in JakeB's article?  Mine has to be pushed too hard before it moves.  Then it jumps - you cannot feather it.  I will research other setups this winter.  Maybe I will start thinking about ITBs, it is going to be a long winter!

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Sheldon, thanks for the info, I will try again, as I am banging my head trying to use the Autosportslab adapter.

 

@dudeok, I tried connecting the Lokar cable directly to the transmission mounting hole instead of a plate, but it was too crooked, so the pedal would not flow freely.  I ended up making a plate just like JakeB's article and aligning it as close to completely straight as possible and that did the trick.  Another issue I was having is that the lever on the outside of the box was not tightening enough to the rod, so I placed a thin metal plate (VERY thin) and that stopped it from slipping.  Once that was done, the pedal would flow freely and would go from perfect idle to WOT at the end of its run.  I learned the hard way not to shortcut several of the suggestions on Jake's article, I tried to do it "my way" only to end up doing it his.  Hope this helps.

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I finished mine recently (well mostly) and am not happy with the way the throttle worked out.  Did you do the throttle like in JakeB's article?  Mine has to be pushed too hard before it moves.  Then it jumps - you cannot feather it.  I will research other setups this winter.  Maybe I will start thinking about ITBs, it is going to be a long winter!

 

 

Sheldon, thanks for the info, I will try again, as I am banging my head trying to use the Autosportslab adapter.

 

@dudeok, I tried connecting the Lokar cable directly to the transmission mounting hole instead of a plate, but it was too crooked, so the pedal would not flow freely.  I ended up making a plate just like JakeB's article and aligning it as close to completely straight as possible and that did the trick.  Another issue I was having is that the lever on the outside of the box was not tightening enough to the rod, so I placed a thin metal plate (VERY thin) and that stopped it from slipping.  Once that was done, the pedal would flow freely and would go from perfect idle to WOT at the end of its run.  I learned the hard way not to shortcut several of the suggestions on Jake's article, I tried to do it "my way" only to end up doing it his.  Hope this helps.

 

 

not sure exactly how you are describing throttle cable install, but do not attach the gas pedal end to the tranny.  it must be attached to the car body.  if attached to the tranny, the movement of the engine/tranny on the mounts will cause the throttle position to change.  do something like this.  cable attached to body at the pedal box bolts.

 

DSCN5644.jpg

 

2012-03-10_13-04-57_230.jpg

Edited by mlytle
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I finished my swap a couple of months ago, been waiting to drain coolant again so I can remove the radiator and install the parallel flow condenser for a better A/C cooling. Aside from that, it's done. I hid the wires as best I can and tucked the tach adapter in the fuse box compartment because it does generate a ticking sound as it pulses. Turns out that didn't quieten it down much since the compartment is right by the cluster anyway haha.

I haven't converted the speedo to electric yet as I'd like to convert to either GPS or have a company I've spoken to convert my inner working to electric while keeping it stock looking.

I converted to COP and the boots were not a problem fitting them, so if you had issues fitting them, let me know and I can try help you figure out what's up with that.

 

Always interested in what others did so thanks for sharing! Keep it up :)

 

Edit: Pictures aren't sideways when I upload them, so I apologize for their size and orientation. Save them to view them if you prefer.

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Edited by speedyshel
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Nice looking bay Sheldon. I see you have the M42 relays by the original ones from the 02. Where are those now? Did you lengthen the wiring to fit them there?

I also want to get the AC finished so let me know anything you learn on that end. I had most of the Clardy stuff in the car already so I want to try to use the M42 compressor with the rest of the stuff. Pretty much just missing the hoses and dryer, the condenser, fan and all the interior stuff is already there.

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Ended up like this pic from JakeB. I get the idea that the tranny shifts under load, but is it enough to make a difference in the throttle position. Definitely makes sense. May look into changing the setup as a weekend project. Thanks for the heads up.

yes, it makes a difference.  the chassis does not move, the engine and trans do move.  quite a  bit actually on stock rubber mounts.  every wiggle it makes moves the throttle plate.  even at idle the vibration may be enough to cause the throttle plate to come on and off the idle stop, driving the ecu nuts.  shifting and cornering which cause the engine to shift can make the throttle position unpredictable.  the cable cover mount and the cable itself need to be attached to the car chassis.

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This was my attempt at the throttle so I could get it up and running.  I had the same problem with the lever slipping on the rod end and also that it was not aligned with the cable at idle.  I am going to rethink this whole thing.  Thanks for all the info.  As for the COPs that I have, they do not snap on the plugs like the normal wire ends do.  There is a spring that pushes against the top of the plug.  It seemed weird to me at first also but they work fine (running wasted spark but will be going to sequential).  I was able to bench test a tach with the adapter and it worked as it should, it was easy to set this up because I am using Megasquirt.  I just got the car running before it was time to put it away for the long sleep.

 

file_zps6f9c384e.jpg

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As a follow up, I got the autosportlabs tach adapter working. I had already bought it and gave it another try. Pretty easy setup, tach side of the board goes to the tach wire on the 02 that used to go to the coil, and coil 1 on the board goes to the c101 wire from the M42 ECU. For $15 shipped and after frying the MSD $70 adapter, i could not resist. http://www.autosportlabs.com/product/tach-adapter/

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