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Clutch Pressure Plate Rebuilders?


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I had a component failure of the E30 M3 Sport (HD) clutch pressure plate (Sachs MF228, BMW 883082999618) and am looking for leads on reputable companies that can disassemble, inspect, and replace the damaged components.

Three flat spring-steel torque drive straps connect the pressure ring to the clutch cover. One strap is gone, one is bent, and one is intact. Photo below shows the type of strap I am talking about.



While I can replace it with new for about $400, or with an IE equivalent for $245, I'd like to see if I can get it repaired for less. It was otherwise working fine, and does not appear to have been damaged by the failure. It is used with an IE solid puck racing clutch disc, somewhere between 100 - 200 track days on the pressure plate. If your your experience says don't bother with rebuild, let me know...

BTW, has anyone here purchased parts from www.performance-kupplung.de? I can get a new MF228 pressure plate there for about $330 shipped.




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It did let go on track--symptom was would not go into gear. The pressure plate is contained within the clutch housing and there is no where for it to go unless the entire housing fails. There is very little room for the plate to move, it is just slightly off-center with broken straps. If a rebuilder can inspect it and determine the components are fine, all it needs is those drive straps replaced. Thx--Fred


UPDATE: I just spoke with Andrew at IE and he said they have been seeing more drive strap failures in recent years on high-powered 2002's using the E30 Sport pressure plates. Will likely source one through them, but still interested in rebuilding.

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Yeah, I actually agree with Marshall, for once ( ;) )

100 track days is pretty good for a pressure plate.  I had a real problem with the 215's

because they use a radial strap- they would last maybe half a season at best.

I found an aftermarket (I think it was actually Lucas inside the box!!!) that

had axial straps, and that lasted for years.

Then I went to a Quartermaster and now replace just parts...


When mine went, I first got some vibration, and then it wouldn't shift at speed.

At idle, it shifted fine, but if you put the clutch in and revved the engine, at

about 3000 rpm the car would drive off on its own- with the clutch depressed! 


And I never bothered with the M3 version- with a solid puck, I never had

any trouble with slippage.  Maybe I just never made enough torque...





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Thanks for all the responses and to Marshall for an off-line lead. I guess I am lucky the broken strap did not cut my trans apart. The strap did minor damage before it broke off completely, but not too bad. I have a Tilton 5.5" for my other track car but have not installed it yet. Now I know to check the straps for buckling--did not realize that was an issue. Thank again--Fred

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