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Inside Front Fenderwells


RAS-2002

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When I took 'Schatzi' in to my friend for a valve job and to have the driver's floorpan replaced, he showed me some rusty areas in the lower front fenderwells. He said they weren't too bad, but he felt it best to remove the rusted, non-structural pieces. I agreed, and he removed most of it, and he then sprayed some protective undercoating there. I thought it came out pretty good.  I've attached some pics of what's left.  Can someone post a few comparable pics of what these areas are supposed to look like, in rust-free condition, just to give me an idea?

Much obliged, 

-Bob

post-42229-0-98802800-1415202203_thumb.j

post-42229-0-82692600-1415202233_thumb.j

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Here are some recent ones:

 

 

post-45192-0-23408300-1415214794_thumb.j

 

post-45192-0-19250800-1415214961_thumb.j

 

post-45192-0-01856500-1415215047_thumb.j

 

post-45192-0-45175400-1415215372_thumb.j

 

post-45192-0-36078100-1415215406_thumb.j

 

Having just completed this part of my project and taken a large number of photos., if you need more photos of a specific area of the inner fenders, let me know and I'll send them along.

 

Regards, Maurice.

 

 

 

 

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Platt:

 

I will be covering the process in detail in my restoration thread (http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/151951-restoration-well-under-way-one-panel-at-a-time/), with photos in the next couple of weeks, but here is a summary of the process I used in the meantime.

 

Remove front fender

Blow out area with compressed air

Clean/degrease entire inner fender

Grind and sand off all paint down to bare metal

Weld in or patch any rusted through areas

Clean and prep surface area with "Marine Clean"

Rinse thoroughly with water

Treat and etch the bare metal with "Prep & Ready"

Rinse thoroughly with water

Dry COMPLETELY with compressed air and wiping cloths

One coat of POR-15

Scuff

Second coat of POR-15

Two coats of tie-coat primer

Mask off all areas to be seam-sealed

Apply seam sealer

Remove masking tape and scuff

Three coats of 3M water based rubberized undercoating

Scuff

Blow out with compressed air

Wipe with tack cloth

Two coats of base coat

Three coats of clear.

 

The second photo in my post above shows the section of the inner wing which had to be removed, patched and is then tack-welded in that photo.

 

The third photo in the post shows the step when the masking tape had just been removed after seam sealing and before scuffing.

 

This process for both inner fenders took more than 90 hours.  It's labor intensive but it's about as rust-proof as I could make it, which was my main goal.

 

The inside of the fender receives the last few parts of the treatment, starting with the step after the "two coats of tie-coat primer".

 

Regards, Maurice.

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That original ledge is a real rust- trap- if you're not an originality freak, closing it upand seam- welding it is a big improvement over stock.t

What ledge are you talking about? I'm fixing some rust in my wheel well, and have the welder handy...
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