Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

M10 Bore And Hone


chance.hughes

Recommended Posts

I am getting my m10 block bored and honed fix an overheat. The Machine shop said in order to hone the cylinders they need the "main bolts" and "main mounts" or something. He tried to explain it as the bolts for the crank and the mounts for it but I'm still not sure. Does anyone know what he would be talking about so I don't show up with the wrong parts??

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"...and two hard boiled eggs."

-Otis B. Driftwood  (from A Night at the Opera)

-Bob
(current: 1972 Malaga 2002, VIN 2584644, build date July 26, 1972)

 

Previous: 1973 Sahara 2002 #2585896 (RIP), 1969 1600, 1971 2002, 1964 Triumph Herald convertible, 1965 Triumph Herald convertible, 1961 Triumph TR3A, 1967 Triumph TR4A-irs, 1959 Austin Healey 100/6, and about 10 other cars (most of which were quite boring)...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The motor was rebuilt about 5 years ago, so the mileage was probably pretty low from then.  But I had an overheat beyond normal; melted a hole in the number 1 piston.  Needless to say i'm using a different set of pistons and connecting rods.  I am getting the head service also, and it bored out to fix the pistons...but I did't bring in the connecting rods to get balanced or the timing cover...

 

Oh and they also have my crankshaft to polish. 

 

Can they balance the connecting rods after all else is complete?  Do they attach the pistons to do this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the more important thing is the front timing cover. It should be attached to the head if it is milled/shaved. If not, you will have big problems getting everything sealed on the front. The rods can be done after. I would take the valve cover to align the front cover, and the bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, they will need to attach the rods and pistons to get them as close to the same weight as possible. I would have the whole rotating assembly balanced, including flywheel and clutch. But that is a bit "belt and braces".

The big issue is the front timing cover. That needs to be machined with the head or you will have a leak.

-David

1972 2002 - 2577652 Follow the fun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone for the help and advice.  I was definitely about to get the work done and only have half of the stuff mentioned taken to the machine shop.  

 

I'm looking at other crankshafts and the specs listed in my Haynes manual.  It lists the standard regrind at +.25mm (in regards to the main bearings and big-end bearings).  I found someone that has a crank and he said it is plus 10.  I didn't know enough at the time to ask units or what it was in regards to so know I'm asking if that rings a bell with anyone?  Would someone have a +.10mm regrind? or could he be talking about something else all together?

 

Thanks. (sorry for being such a newbie)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, what Andrew said- .010"  under is the .25mm spec, usually.  But this is where a micrometer comes in real handy...

Also, look at what clearance the thrust bearing (center) is ground to.  It is usually .25mm wider, too, but having your

bearing shells in hand is the only way to be sure it'll all work together.

 

I have never nitrided a crank that's been ground.  I've never seen unusual wear after doing so,

and I've also taken apart a couple of parts engines with undersize cranks that were OK, too.

 

Not saying nitriding is bad, just that the 2002 crank at .25mm under seems to do OK without it.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...