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M10 Bore And Hone


chance.hughes

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I am getting my m10 block bored and honed fix an overheat. The Machine shop said in order to hone the cylinders they need the "main bolts" and "main mounts" or something. He tried to explain it as the bolts for the crank and the mounts for it but I'm still not sure. Does anyone know what he would be talking about so I don't show up with the wrong parts??

Thanks

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The motor was rebuilt about 5 years ago, so the mileage was probably pretty low from then.  But I had an overheat beyond normal; melted a hole in the number 1 piston.  Needless to say i'm using a different set of pistons and connecting rods.  I am getting the head service also, and it bored out to fix the pistons...but I did't bring in the connecting rods to get balanced or the timing cover...

 

Oh and they also have my crankshaft to polish. 

 

Can they balance the connecting rods after all else is complete?  Do they attach the pistons to do this?

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the more important thing is the front timing cover. It should be attached to the head if it is milled/shaved. If not, you will have big problems getting everything sealed on the front. The rods can be done after. I would take the valve cover to align the front cover, and the bolts.

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Yes, they will need to attach the rods and pistons to get them as close to the same weight as possible. I would have the whole rotating assembly balanced, including flywheel and clutch. But that is a bit "belt and braces".

The big issue is the front timing cover. That needs to be machined with the head or you will have a leak.

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Thanks to everyone for the help and advice.  I was definitely about to get the work done and only have half of the stuff mentioned taken to the machine shop.  

 

I'm looking at other crankshafts and the specs listed in my Haynes manual.  It lists the standard regrind at +.25mm (in regards to the main bearings and big-end bearings).  I found someone that has a crank and he said it is plus 10.  I didn't know enough at the time to ask units or what it was in regards to so know I'm asking if that rings a bell with anyone?  Would someone have a +.10mm regrind? or could he be talking about something else all together?

 

Thanks. (sorry for being such a newbie)

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Yep, what Andrew said- .010"  under is the .25mm spec, usually.  But this is where a micrometer comes in real handy...

Also, look at what clearance the thrust bearing (center) is ground to.  It is usually .25mm wider, too, but having your

bearing shells in hand is the only way to be sure it'll all work together.

 

I have never nitrided a crank that's been ground.  I've never seen unusual wear after doing so,

and I've also taken apart a couple of parts engines with undersize cranks that were OK, too.

 

Not saying nitriding is bad, just that the 2002 crank at .25mm under seems to do OK without it.

 

t

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