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Handbrake Lever Push Button Exploded Diagram Puh-Leese?


thehackmechanic
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Okay. I screwed up. I pulled the fat pin out of the pivot point of the handbrake lever to gain clearance to grease the cables, experienced the "why doesn't push button go in and latch" thing, and see all the posts saying "don't do this it sucks to get it back together.

 

I see references to a diagram showing the inner workings of the handbrake lever, the push button, the spring, the hooked rod, the two small pieces of foam, and the piece that locks the toothed gear... but no diagram.

 

Uh, please? I'll buy you a beer at the next event. Maybe two.

 

--Rob

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I can't explain it, I can only do it .....

 

 the secret is to push in the thumb thingie against the spring, and you gotta be sure the "B" catch thingie is in the correct orientation to fit properly with the long rod in the handle ......  then insert the Locking Element cheese grater thingie, then gently release the thumb, and the cheese grater will stay in place, then oh so gently nestle the handle into it's mount location being sure the cheese grater notch goes under the body tab thingie, then align the holes for the pin ...... 

      All the while making sure the 2 cables go underneath the handle end because it is "impossible" to relocate them if they aren't where they belong ......

 

It's not so much difficult as frustrating because it takes very little to dislodge the cheese grater and you get to start over ...... not to mention getting it together only to discover the cables are not in their "wide slot" at the end of the handle.  Patience and beer make the job easy.

 

And if you can't get it, just take everything to BavAuto and someone there knows how to do it.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl.

Edited by OriginalOwner
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The VW version is very similar.  Just don't mess with the "button" like so many people do while you are sitting at a traffic light - it may unscrew and spring out of the handle.

 

Weird - I don't ever recall seeing a flimsy VW e-brake handle like the BMW ones. VW uses a similar design with clevis and pin at the pivot.

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Just had my share of fun installing the handle in the 69 (with pivot bearings from Grice).  Thanks for the tip on securing the button!

 

Clean and lube the pieces.

Spread some grease on the bottom rounded portion of the handle where the two cables rub against it.

Spread some grease on the inner ratchet piece (has the teeth).

 

FIRST -Insert the ratchet piece into the handle. The teeth face outward (front of car) and there is a notch that fits into the tunnel.

Find a hose clamp and large cotter pin.  Bend the pin so it fits around the push button and handle.

Fit the push button/rod/spring into the handle with the bottom hook facing down.

Align the pivoting pawl so the round portion fits into the hook (teeth face out)

Install cotter pin and hose clamp.

 

Fit bearings to handle and press down on the handle near the pivot point and toward the front so the ratchet piece catches the tunnel.

Use a screwdriver to push the ratchet piece forward so it clears the pivot bolt/pin.

Insert pivot bolt/pin.

Remove hose clamp.

Tighten bolt (or install circlip)

Route and secure e-brake cables to handle.

 

IMG_9687_zps42da332c.jpg

IMG_9688_zpsf22e6ace.jpg

IMG_9689_zpsf7685408.jpg

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  • 5 years later...

I just finished installing my handbrake, including the very worthwhile upgrade with thrust bearings one each side of the arm mentioned in other posts.  

 

Not a pleasant experience...  Here are a few pointers to add, some of which are repeats of details above.

 

1.  Begin on the workbench and get the ratchet part(A) in place

 

2.  Duct tape works to hold the button in, as well as the clamp and cotter pin.

 

3.  Put the ratchet part (B) in place first, then do the button press/tape operation.

 

4.  When you do get the ratchet part (A), button, and the lever(B) with teeth that joins the two in sync, temporarily install the pivot bolt or pin and add a bit of masking tape around the protruding part of the lever to keep the teeth against the ratchet.

 

5. If you're doing the thrust bearing upgrade, add the stack of washer/bearing/washer on each side of the arm and secure them with a bit of masking tape on the workbench, to avoid loosing them in the cavity above the drive shaft tunnel (don't ask how I know).

 

6.  Rip the seats from the car so you can see what the $%^&*@ you are doing (just kidding, but it's much easier with at least one seat out)

 

7.  Install handbrake in the car as above

 

8.  Remove the duct and masking tape bits and clean up any tape residue.  

 

By the way, part "A" in the diagram above comes in two flavors- the later part has a large unusual shaped cutout in the center.  The are dimensionally equivalent on the outside as far as I can tell.  A note in the big blue book seems to indicate that there is an earlier version yet with fewer, larger teeth.

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