engine and drivetrain why on earth is this happening...

[Guest Anonymous]

oil keeps coming out of my oil cap on the valve cover. i have replaced the cap several times, but it still leaks, is this a problem with the the engine? i am also getting a lot of blow by coming from the breather hose out of the valve cover, it smokes while driving and leaks oil. anyone have any ideas for me? thanks in advance.

alex

[Guest Anonymous]

your engine is old... if it hasn't been opened yet and rebuilt it's probably due.. most seals don't last for 30 years.. sorry to break it to you... as for the oil leaking out of the valve cover... make sure your breather hole is clear and unobstructed.. let it vent to the atmosphere unless you like tress and want to save the planet.. that rubber gasket isn't smooshing down onto the valve cover.. carefully lift the gasket up and put a large goo bead of black RTV under it.. set ruber gasket down on top and wait for RTV to dry.. should provide a positive seal pressure for your oil cap... party on

[Guest Anonymous]

i figured this much, its just i had been told that the compression on this engine was still reasonably good. but i feel as though it is time for a rebuild or something of the sort. how much do people usually spend on swapping in an m20? thats probably out of the question but anyways, thanks for the info!

ps what is RTV?

[Guest Anonymous]

compression numbers can = good performance but they arn't always a tell tale sign of how good an engine is.. do a compression check on it with a compression tester.. the tool is $25 and it's available at most autopart stores.. it's also rentable at autozone I think... get those numbers.. it's just thing that plugs into the spark plug socket instead of the plug.. un hook the coil so the engine won't start and proceded to spin the engine over... While you're in there look for some black RTV RTV is a silicone sealant.. gasket maker.. if you put that behind the rubber seal that's supposed to seal the oil cap to the head.. it'll seal it.. just make sure you haven't done anything stupid like plug the vent... or you'll build pressure till you blow a timming cover or valve cover gasket.. bad news either way... as for m20 swap.. talk to my budy curtis... he just finished his...

[Guest Anonymous]

When your geting lots of blow by out the breather basicly your rings are bad. this pressurises the oil system. this forces the oil and air out anyway it can. With the oil caps were they new??? I have about 40 old oil caps most of witch are only good for siting on the shelf. I have also seen the valve cover seats deform thus making it imposible for a seal to form. RTV wont do shit for you. Fix it right by rebuilding the engine and you will be a lot happier.

Sam

[Guest Anonymous]

maybe someone put too much oil in your engine. i would drain oil and replace with correct amount just to be sure, new filter too: correct filter too, if that is not already done OC25. maybe your dip stick has moved and is giving false low readings and there is too much oil in the engine. Could that cause overpressure?.... maybe- i dont know for sure, but it seems logical. I know that too much oil is not good for an engine, and your symptoms dont sound normal. Oh ya: where does your blow by hose go to? Does it route to the carb in the normal fashion.Is that hose clear of debris? try a new piece of hose. If you are leading it to a catch tank, as many people do, and if that input fitting is too small you create back pressure which is bad, and the tank has to be one that "breathes" with a little K and N type top fitting. Anyway, those are my 2 thoughts about your situation. Good luck- keep us advised on solution.

[Guest Anonymous]

i have been told that excessive carbon build up , on old engines, can result in higher than real compression readings. I empathize with your desire to avoid a rebuild at this point. Maybe a differnet VC and a new VC gasket with a new blol by line will help. Lot cheaper than a rebuild. you can then check out fresher engines for sale and get your ducks in a row for the transplant.

[Guest Anonymous]

Compression from combustion chamber escapes thru rngs into the block and back to the head thru the oil return passages, pushing oil vapors with it.

Old motor with dead rings...

[Guest Anonymous]

Well, as for the cost of an M20, an m10 is cheaper, musch cheaper! I spent like 4-5k this summer doin the M20 but Kris and I rebuilt the motor first and its has like every possible part new. I also had a transmissions hipped from Australia and an 8lb flywheel in it too while it was apart. It does haul ass like no M10 and the torque is amazing but it wasn't cheap. I looked about the tie rods and the center link for you and they are $90 for each tie rod with ends and the center link is $90 too. Let me know if you have any questions.

Curtis

[Guest Anonymous]

thanks for all the help guys, i think it is just time for a rebuild, while i am in there, what kind of performance stuff can i add? i was thinking a cam, and higher compression pistons, what is the good compression piston to be running on pump gas? thanks!

[Guest Anonymous]

And alwyas run on 91/92 octane. No more regular gas.

[Guest Anonymous]

sounds good to me! thanks for all your help guys! this forum rocks!

[Guest Anonymous]

what do ou gusy think about top end performances long block rebuild kit? is the price too high? any other places where i can get these parts cheaper?

4 cylinder M10 LONG BLOCK Performance Engine Rebuild kit: (2002,320i, 318i)

Performance Re-Ground camshaft (288, 294, or 302) exchange.

Performance Dual Valve Spring set

New Rocker arms and Rocker Shafts

New Intake and exhaust manifold Studs and Nuts

New Heavy Duty Cylinder Head bolts

JE Forged pistons (Any bore size or compression ratio)with Total-Seals

German Rod and Main bearings (std, 10, 20)

Full engine gasket set

Timing chain, tensioner and guide rails

Oil pump with chain, gear, nut, and washer

$1295.00

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

... and specs are good. Don't know about quality.