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Brake Bleeding Question - Starting With A Dry System


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I'm wrapping up installation of new brakes, lines, master cylinder and booster. I have the Motive systems pressure bleeder and I'm familiar with the sequence of furthest to closest (which I've done many times on other cars) and thanks to this forum, I have the sequence for bleeding the calipers.

I have a couple of questions though since I'm starting without any fluid in the system and a new master cylinder. Both are firsts for me. Any way, I saw mention of "bench bleeding" the m/c. Is this as messy as it sounds? Is it recommended? What is the benefit?

Related question is whether I should do something other than go from the furthest corner of the car to the nearest. For example, would it be worth my time to go near to far and just get some fluid flowing, then proceed with the standard practice?


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LOL - I have posted this once before.    When building my VW, I had a hell of a time bleeding the brakes.  After weeks of frustration, I pulled the reservoir and hoses (similar design to the BMW) and found tiny dust cups pressed inside the master cylinder plastic elbows.  After removing them, I finally got fluid to the master cylinder.

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Yes, bench bleeding the master is messy.


Fords seem to require it.  I now own a Ford for the first time in my life, so I'm adjusting...


I don't do it on 2002's, but once, I had to loosen the fittings at the master to get fluid flowing

through a new master.  Made no sense- I could bleed by gravity and by pressure, but there

was a big air pocket in one chamber of the master, and the only way to get it out was to unhook

a master line.


THAT made a big mess.


No, normally just fill the system, pump the pedal a few times with the bleeders CLOSED, then

start bleeding.  You'll have to do it a few times for the best pedal, as small bubbles stick to

the insides of the new parts, but it's not too bad.



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Thanks everyone for the tips. Test drive will have to wait but I now have a very firm pedal near the top of the pedal stroke.

Only hitch I ran into was one of the new rear flexible lines was leaking a bit. I loosened it up and re-tightened it and the leak seems to be gone. I'll keep an eye on it.

I ran a full bottle of fluid through the system to get everything bled and took my time at each bleed point. A couple of them ran clear for quite a while then spat out a bit more air so I'm hopeful that I got everything. I guess I'll find out soon enough. When I go drive it.

I apparently left the distributor loose when I checked timing and couple weeks ago and the distributor slipped a bit. It'll start but won't idle very long. I ran out of time to mess with it but should be easy enough to make right tonight or tomorrow.

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