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TurkisM2002

When To Rebuild Cv Joints

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Hi everyone I searched the forums but wanted to ask personally. When should you rebuild your CV joints? I'm restoring a 73 that I haven't even driven yet. Rebuilt just about the entire rear end except for the cv joints. Given these are rather pricey I don't want to do them unless necessary.

The boots are starting to dry out and crack but are not torn yet.

Thanks

Chris

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(edited)

Since your boots are dry and cracking replace them now. Rebuilding the CV's is cheap--the cost of grease and the boot kits. Some even come with the grease. If you wait until the boot tears then grit will get into the CV's and if it goes on too long you'll be looking to replace them. New CV's are hard to find and fairly expensive. Used CV's are available and you already have four! Do it now while everything is apart.

 

If you need tips on how to disassemble and reassemble the CV's just ask. The thread below has tips and links to good references--Fred

 

What Is A Dead CV Joint?
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/135048-what-is-a-dead-cv-joint/

Edited by FB73tii

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On a 2002

Only when the boots fail. 

Unlike Honduhhs, the CV's are very understressed, and last almost forever.

As long as they stay clean and greased.

 

When they fail, good used ones are usually all you ever need.

 

I raced the same set for 8 seasons- no issues whatsoever.  And they were from the pick-n-pull to start....

 

 

t

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So the rear end is back in the car. Can the boots be replaced in place? I unfortunately overlooked the boots when replacing all the bushings. Sigh.

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You can just drop the axle shafts, pull and repackage the cv's, install the new boots, replace the cv and bolt up.

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Removing the axles to replace CV joint boots is an easy job--you just need the proper sized Allen socket wrench (8mm IIRC) and a little horizontal time under the car.  But do those boots if they're cracked and/or leaking grease.  Dirt'll kill em faster than anything.  Just make sure to re-torque those allen bolts when reinstalling--and a little Loctite wouldn't hurt at all.  They have been known to work loose all by themselves.  Happened to be a couple of times.

 

My 02s still have their original axles at 244k and 224k miles...and I watch those boots like a hawk!

 

cheers

mike

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CV rebuilding is one of the dirtiest, most fun jobs to do.  Cleaning, painting, repacking and re-assembly of a set is a unique DIY experience.

 

my2002tii.com has a complete how-to.

 

Definitely use a NEW hex socket for the bolts.  They may be partially stripped.

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So I got a set of boots today. Started disassembly on one end. I do have a question. How does one solve the puzzle of getting the bearings and cage back into the outer ring? I've tried titling and prying and swearing, but nothing works. :)

post-45427-14064308482966_thumb.jpg

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(edited)

So I finally got one cv joint put back together. All greased up. When I reinstalled it on to the axle I noticed that it does not move nearly as freely as the other cv joints. I can move the joint around but sometimes it catches and gets stuck.

Is this normal after repacking the joint with grease? Does it take some time for the bearings to be fully coated ? Just doesn't seem right to me.

Thanks

Edited by chrisracer79

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Since your boots are dry and cracking replace them now. Rebuilding the CV's is cheap--the cost of grease and the boot kits. Some even come with the grease. If you wait until the boot tears then grit will get into the CV's and if it goes on too long you'll be looking to replace them. New CV's are hard to find and fairly expensive. Used CV's are available and you already have four! Do it now while everything is apart.

 

If you need tips on how to disassemble and reassemble the CV's just ask. The thread below has tips and links to good references--Fred

 

What Is A Dead CV Joint?

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/135048-what-is-a-dead-cv-joint/

 

 

Hi Fred, thanks for the link. I pulled one of the CV joints last night, cleaned everything, and repacked with new grease. When I put the CV joint back on the axle, the movement of the joint isn't as fluid as the other joints. Is this due to the fact that all the grease has yet to work its way around all the bearings?  Seems like if I grab the joint and try to move it, it will move, but there's some resistance and on occasion, will bind. 

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Thanks

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(edited)

Hi Fred, thanks for the link. I pulled one of the CV joints last night, cleaned everything, and repacked with new grease. When I put the CV joint back on the axle, the movement of the joint isn't as fluid as the other joints. Is this due to the fact that all the grease has yet to work its way around all the bearings?  Seems like if I grab the joint and try to move it, it will move, but there's some resistance and on occasion, will bind. 

 

There should be no binding in the normal range of motion, but bear in mind that when you are moving the joint around by hand this is likely different than what it experiences in place. If you extend or compress the joint by hand then it will bind up a bit when you move it, but that is the only time I noticed any issue.

 

Hopefully the cage was not damaged during disassembly. How did you remove the CV from the axle? I use a 6" section of pipe with a 1" slot cut in it so the axle can slip inside it. Then put the assembly in a big vice and the pipe supports the inner star gear. Finally, drive the axle out of the star gear using a strong punch and BFH. If the CV is instead removed by whacking on the outer portion it can damage the joint.

 

Are you sure that you aligned the inner gear and outer CV correctly? I don't even know if it will go together if the alignment is not correct, but that is something to check. The thin part of the star gear align with the thick part of the CV rims. Also, check that the gear was installed correctly on the axle per the images below, with the shoulder of the gear on the inside.

 

Otherwise, as long as you put it all together the way it came apart, including placement of the bellville washer if your axle had one (some do, some don't depending on style--2002 or E21) you should be fine. Rotate the axle when installed to ensure no binding.

 

Here are two important images from:

http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

 

post-36969-0-22514400-1406568239_thumb.j

 

post-36969-0-69261800-1406568258_thumb.j

 

--Fred

Edited by FB73tii

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(edited)

Hi Fred, thanks for the pictures. Believe it or not, I was able to remove the joint by hand. I put the axle in a big vice and was able to pull the joint off with little effort....The cage does not look damaged. I inspected the outer ring and bearings for any signs of wear and all looks well. 

 

To answer your questions, I put everything back together according to that pic. I used this as a reference. The only part of your questioning I'm unsure of is whether the shoulder on the star gear is facing inward. I'm sure it matches both pictures, but I'll confirm. And perhaps I am handling it more aggressively than what it would the joint would see on a normal day to day basis.

 

 

 

DSCF1906.jpg

Edited by chrisracer79

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Fred, one thing I noticed - there's a difference in the picture I attached versus the picture you attached. The chamfered edge of the spider gear faces outward, toward the hub/diff, whereas in your included picture in faces inward (toward the axle).

 

 

-Chris

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(edited)

Yeah, sometimes the CV slips off easily, but more often they are really on there. I'll have to look at some spider gears when I get home. As I recall the side that faces out (toward the hub or diff flange) may have a small raised portion like the one in your photo, so that looks normal to me. But on the the inside, facing the opposite CV, there can be a much deeper shoulder. Not really a "bevel", but an extension. I'll see if I can find a photo.

 

As long as it is put back together correctly you are fine. The angle of the axle with respect to the perpendicular to the hub or diff flange is small. When you wobble it by hand you are likely creating a much larger angle.

 

EDIT: Here an image showing the extension in the inside that some gears have. This is not a BMW CV, BTW. As i recall the gears between the 2002 and E21 are slightly different. I use a 320i axle with 320i inboard CV and 2002 outboard CV for my E21 LSD.

 

post-36969-0-93927000-1406578392_thumb.j

 

--Fred

Edited by FB73tii

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