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Lynx/dcoe 45 Throttle Cable Options


danco_

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Hi guys,

 

Has anyone have good photos of a Top End Performance throttle cable, installed and running on a car with the Lynx manifold/single DCOE 45 carb?

 

This is the throttle cable in question: 

xvqTy7O.jpg?1

 

a1vRM8p.jpg?1

 

 

 

This is what I'm looking at from underneath the car.

WZNaTQA.jpg?1

 

6Ajv5Nj.jpg?1

 

Notice the black bracket just hanging there. Where is this supposed to attach to? I've seen info that this attached to part of the tranny, and other posts that say it attaches to the brake booster housing. Who has done this and how did they mount it?

 

Here is a direct "drawing" from TEP's website. Not much to go off of, considering it looks like it was drawn by a 6 year old, with a crayon.

 

s6Iuucl.png

 

I already don't like this throttle cable, but would like to give it an honest effort before I ditch it for something better. 

 

If someone has gone through this install and has photos, I'd love to see them. If someone has advice, I'd love to hear it. 

 

 

Thank you,

Ryan

Edited by Danc02

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Ryan, this is a similar application to a bicycle brake cable. The bracket is just a terminus for the sheath. Mount the bracket in a place to allow the most direct pull of the inner cable with the least deflection. You may need to adjust the throttle arm on the outside of the pedal box to do this.

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Ryan,

The black bracket with the hook-like end is secured to the inner side of the pedal/brake housing. There is a bolt with a 17mm head just above the brake lines (1976) on the housing that secures this bracket. Do not over tighten the bolt otherwise after installation has it can bind the brake mechanism.

I had this set-up and did not care for it - it was not as smooth as a direct linkage used on the down drafts. So, I designed my own throttle linkage assembly for the Lynx set-up:

d0ad1a64a4a7c066a7886f274bcbb90f_zps58c6

a28b625d6105eca024a159b8af5a8354_zpsbd2e

Parts are readily available. If interested, email me and I will put together a summary.

Tom

Keep your revs up,

Tom

____________________________

1976 BMW 2002

1971 BMW 2800

1969 BMW 1600 (the one that got this madness started for me ...)

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http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/113133-m20-guys-cvcc-throttle-cable-help/

This thread has a good photo (from mlytle) of what you should end up with.  It's important to prevent any relative movement between adjacent ends of the cable and sheath other than pedal input and spring return.  Also make sure you have no binding issues.  If you live in an area with cold weather (and you plan on driving in it) maintain the cable with cable lube to prevent water ingress and freezing.  Don't ask me how I know-  : )

Edited by jasonix
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Several members have sent emails requesting a write-up of the way I replicated the factory throttle linkage used with down-draft carburetors on the Lynx/DCOE 45 arrangement.  Below is my attempt at that write-up – for those of you interested in this arrangement, I hope you find it helpful.

 

 

 

TOM’S BMW 2002 Lynx Manifold Throttle set-up:

 

The intention of this setup is to replicate the look and smooth operation of the factory throttle rod linkage used on the stock down-draft carburetors but in this case on the Lynx single DCOE 45 setup.    Here is a general description of the parts you will need and how to modify them to make this set-up work.

 

 

Parts

 

 

  1. New Right Hand Throttle Stop (~$22):


 

You can buy this part at Pierce Manifolds, they call if a “RH DCOE throttle stop” – p/n 45048.000 it is about $21.  

 

Or, you can use the throttle stop that came with throttle cable kit  that has all the cable related stuff attached to it.   I think Pierce Manifolds uses this same cable kit throttle stop but just grinds off the “legs” that hold the cable stop in order to make what you see in the picture below:

RHThrottleStopforDCOECarbs_zpsaad9827a.j

 

 

  1. New Throttle Bearing Fire-Wall Adaptor Plate (~$3):


 

As you will see in the picture below that I made an adaptor plate from 1/8 inch aluminum.  If you need a template to make this, I will trace the outline and hole positions from the one I made and have on my car send it to you.  

 

ThrottleShaftBearingHoldingPlate_zps1cf6

 

The idea behind the adaptor plate is simple – it repositions the new throttle rod bearing to the place where a perfect line extending from the centerline of throttle plate shaft of the DCOE 45 would intersect the firewall.    This way there are no bending stresses at all on the throttle plate shaft of the DCOE 45 caused by the throttle rod, and all that the new flexible coupling has to do is make up for engine moving/rocking on the engine mounts and for vibrations.   

 

 

  1. Existing Down-Draft Throttle Shaft:


 

The original throttle shaft (see part 17 in diagram below) can be used and it will need to be cut in order to shortened it to a proper  length so that it will fit between the flex coupling and firewall.    After you have the flexible coupler attached to the DCOE 45 and the adapter plated with bearing mounted to the firewall, measure the rod length you will need and cut the surplus length from the end that goes toward the carburetor.    Clean burrs, and clean up shaft with some emery paper and it should slide into the 10 mm ID hole of the flexible coupling shown below

 

BMW356ThrottleShaftAssyDiagram_zps1db116

 

 

  1. New Throttle Rod Bearing that attaches Throttle Rod to Firewall (~$8-12):


 

See second picture.   The bearing I purchased on Amazon.com or Sear.com (or other providers) – search on description below:

 

Spyraflo NHF 1-250-AF Washdown Aluminum Housing-Flange With a 1/4 inch Inner-Diameter, Self-Aligning, Delrin-AF Bearing

 

SpyrafloBearing_zpsef4a5f80.jpg

 

You can also use the existing bearing (item no. 19 in the diagram above) by removing it from its current location and bolting it to the new location created from making the adaptor plate discussed above.

 

 

  1. New Flex Coupling that attaches Throttle Rod to Carburetor (~$20):


 

See third and fourth picture.   The flexible coupling I also purchased on Amazon.com – search on description below:

 

CNC 8x10mm Motor Shaft Coupler 8mm to 10mm Flexible Couplings OD 44x48mm

 

CNCFlexibleCoupling8mmto10mm_zpsa064422d

 

I pressed in a bronze bushing that I located at ACE Hardware – I believe it was an 5/16 OD with ¼ ID (~$2).   You can these at any hardware store.    The idea here is to have a softer material between the compression fit and the DCOE 45 throttle plate shaft.    Slide the bushing into the 8 mm hole so it is flush and then snug the compression fit screw just slightly  enough to hold the bushing tight without collapsing it.     Then thread the ID of the bronze bushing with a tap that matches the thread size on DCOE 45 throttle plate shaft thread (I can’t recall the size, I think it is 7 mm, but anyway you can use the nut that was on DCOE 45 throttle plate shaft to match up the right tap size).  

 

As additional assurance that the flexible couple will not loosen on the DCOE 45 throttle plate shaft, I drilled and tapped a set screw on the side of the coupling as close as possible to the end of it.    So after screwing on the coupling just enough to come into contact with the throttle stop, you tighten the set  screw snug (hopefully the screw tightens against the flat side of the throttle plate shaft) than snug down the hex-head compression screw on the coupling.    Therefore, the compression fitting and the set screw create a very positive grip on the carburetor’s throttle plate shaft..  

 

See picture below – you’ll notice that the bronze bushing and the set screw that I added to the flexible coupling.

 

FlexibleCouplingwithBronzeBushingInstall

 

Linkage Assembly

 

Study picture below of the assembly as installed as a reference:

 

NewLynxThrottleShaftAssemblyInstalled_zp

 

Follow these steps:

 

  • Install new Spyraflo bearing to adapter plate.    I used some 4 mm stainless screws and locknuts to secure it to the plate.

  • Attach the adaptor plate to the fire wall by reusing the factory hardware (two sheet metal bolts) that held the old bearing to the firewall.

  • Thread the flexible coupling on to the DCOE 45 – do not tighten the set screw or compression screw at this point

  • Slide the throttle shaft into the new bearing on the adaptor plate.   Position the throttle shaft so that the spring retainer/pedal rod “leg” will clear the heat hose with room to spare.   

  • Measure the how much of the throttle shaft will need to be cut – it should be of sufficient length to pass into the 10 mm ID of the flexible couple with perhaps an additional ½ or more of extra length.    There is an open area inside the flexible coupling that the shaft could protrude into.

  • Cut the shaft and reburr – clean up with emery cloth

  • Remove the flexible coupling from the DCOE 45 and slide it onto the throttle shaft – do not tighten any of the compressing screws just yet.

  • Thread the flexible coupling back onto the DCOE 45, lightly snug it up to throttle stop plate (it must not be tight against the stop plate)

  • Tighten down the set screw that was added to the flexible coupling

  • Tighten down the DCOE 45 side compression screw on the flexible coupling


 

Now, the following steps are critical to ensuring that you will have full 90 degrees of throttle plate opening  

 

  • Position the throttle shaft such that the “leg” that the throttle spring and pedal rod attach to is pointing in the 2 o’clock orientation.

  • Tighten the compression screw on the throttle shaft side of the flexible coupling.


 

After installing the adapter plate, the flexible couple and positioning the throttle shaft, then you will have to shorten the throttle-to-pedal rod before its installation.  See directions that follow.

 

 

  1. Modification to Throttle-to-Pedal Rod


 

 

The throttle to pedal rod (item 9 in the diagram below) needs to be shortened about 1 to 1 ½ inches.    You will need to make a measurement.

 

BMW355AcceleratorPedalDiagram_zps66dc77c

 

 

Final Installation

 

 

Holding the pedal rod up against the throttle shaft “leg”, determine how much you will need to shorten at the point where it will fasten to the “leg”.    The holes in the “leg” on my throttle shaft were stamped with a “R” and “L” – which I suspect is to indicate positions for right hand and left hand drive.    I fastened the pedal rod to the hole marked with a “L” of course.    I cut the rod, and made new threads down the rod a bit as well.  I used the appropriate sized metric die to do that.

 

After final assembly of everything, you can make adjustments to the pedal rod by following the same procedures as for the factory down-draft linkage set-up.   You have to make sure you get full 90 deg opening of the throttle plates.  You have to make sure that the throttle shaft closes against the throttle stop and is not being held open by the pedal rod due not having enough slack on the pedal rod.   Once you have everything situated, then attach the throttle spring.  Make sure the spring does not touch the nearby heater hose.   In my case, it was another trip to Ace Hardware to find a spring that was about 1 to 1 ½ inch longer than the stock spring.  The stock throttle spring may be used as well, but it will be stretched.    ACE Hardware had a nice selection of springs to choose from.

 

[url=http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/tombonetoo/media/d0ad1a64a4a7c066a7886f274bcbb90f_zps58c6a6f5.jpg.html]d0ad1a64a4a7c066a7886f274bcbb90f_zps58c6

 

 

So, I have been using this set-up for year now.  It works  extremelywell – very smooth and responsive operation like the factory stock set-up for down-drafts.   

 

Let me know if you have questions!   

 

Tom Carbone

tombonetoo at gmail dot com

 

  • Like 1

Keep your revs up,

Tom

____________________________

1976 BMW 2002

1971 BMW 2800

1969 BMW 1600 (the one that got this madness started for me ...)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just went over this set up one more time in greater detail. VERY nice! 

 

Some of us don't have the necessary tools to perform some of the custom modifications, such as the addition of the set screw in the flexible coupling that attaches to the carb. 

 

You know, if you'd be willing to put together a kit, I'd happily purchase it from you. I know it's the easy way out, but I'm very anxious to drive this car with a superior throttle linkage set-up that isn't cable driven. 

some cars

some motorcycles

some airplanes

some surfboards

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  • 4 years later...
On 5/20/2014 at 7:23 PM, Tombonetoo said:

Ryan,

The black bracket with the hook-like end is secured to the inner side of the pedal/brake housing. There is a bolt with a 17mm head just above the brake lines (1976) on the housing that secures this bracket. Do not over tighten the bolt otherwise after installation has it can bind the brake mechanism.

I had this set-up and did not care for it - it was not as smooth as a direct linkage used on the down drafts. So, I designed my own throttle linkage assembly for the Lynx set-up:

d0ad1a64a4a7c066a7886f274bcbb90f_zps58c6

a28b625d6105eca024a159b8af5a8354_zpsbd2e

Parts are readily available. If interested, email me and I will put together a summary.

Tom

 

Hey Tom, I’m checking out the pictures you posted and am just curious, are you running a vacuum advance?

 

Regards, Diego

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