Ryan's 1974 M2

[ray_]

Needs 4.10!

 

;-)

 

Good luck with the install!

 

Cheers,

[danco_]

Ah, I just remembered that I have a set of half shafts sitting in a box somewhere that need to make it your way. I'll try to have those out by tomorrow. 

 

Progress looks great! That engine is a beauty and I'm an idiot for selling her.

[ray_]

Ah, I just remembered that I have a set of half shafts sitting in a box somewhere that need to make it your way. I'll try to have those out by tomorrow. 

 

Progress looks great! That engine is a beauty and I'm an idiot for selling her.

 

That's not true!!

 

You were an idiot before that!

 

/me runs!

[oh2ryan]

Did you grind off the nose of the water pump for rad clearance? Did you massage the rad support to push it fwd?

Also easier to figure out wiring paths and hole in firewall for engine harness before installing engine.

Good test fit! Now take it back out for more fitting fun! Keep at it!

 

The water pump's nose is ground down already. I guess I should have been more specific, its rubbing on the four 10mm bolts that secure the pulley on the pump. I will do what you suggested and massage the radiator support forward. I was apprehensive to do so before I test fitted the S14 since I didnt want to have an aesthetically displeasing end product if I used the wrong method to persuade the core a few mm's. 

 

Engine will be coming back out soon to do those mentioned items^ and a few other things. Actually, I might just lower the sub frame down and lift the body of the car a little to drill the hole in the firewall and figure out my wiring. It seems that there is plenty of room behind the S14 to access the bolts for the trans. Am I correct, is mating the trans possible with the engine in its installed position? Or should I bolt it up when I lower the engine down when I am home next? I guess Ill have to figure that out too.

 

Thanks for all your help, its invaluable to getting this 2002 on the road.

[oh2ryan]

Needs 4.10!

 

;-)

 

Good luck with the install!

 

Cheers,

 

Thanks! Gear ratio is still being discussed. I have an e21 3.91 so Ill run that first and see if I like the ratio. If I want shorter gears Ill have my custom LSD built to 4.10 instead.

 

Ah, I just remembered that I have a set of half shafts sitting in a box somewhere that need to make it your way. I'll try to have those out by tomorrow. 

 

Progress looks great! That engine is a beauty and I'm an idiot for selling her.

 

No worries, I havent even started the rear end rebuild just yet, nor do I have all the needed parts. I need some rear sub frame bushings still, I didnt realize the Condor kit I ordered didnt come with them. I also want to have camber and toe adjusters welded in while the frame is dropped. 

 

You can take it for a nice long drive when its done, maybe that will ease the pain a bit? Haha

[ray_]

I've had both ;-)

 

You want a 4.10, especially with a 2.3.

 

[oh2ryan]

I've had both ;-)

 

You want a 4.10, especially with a 2.3.

 

Ok... I should just listen to you and quit being so stubborn haha.

[ray_]

Naw. Ask Marshal his opinion.

 

 

Of course a 4.10 might cut 7mph off your top end from 150 to 143.

 

http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/tyres.html

[M3M3]

the s14 block is the same as the m10 block that came with the car.  mounting a tranny is no different between the two in process or space.  yes, install and removal of the tranny is very doable with engine in the car. that is the only way i have done it....a lot.

 

use stock rubber rear subframe mounts with IE stiffeners inserted in them.  i would also use stock rubber engine mounts(and a rubber tranny mount) unless you are a track junkie.  the S14 is VERY buzzy.  hard mounting everything transmits a TON of NVH to the chassis.  on the street, even for a fun car, that is only neat for a weekend, then you will wish you had rubber mounts.  BTDT.  i have had many setups on mine.

 

if you are going to weld in rear trailing arm adjustments, you MUST use stock rubber trailing arm bushings.  the adjusters force the trailing arm mounting bolts off axis.  if you have poly or condor mounts they do not let the bolts twist and they bind up.

 

a 3.91 is actually a good diff for the street.  4.10 is ok if you don't do a lot of highway driving.  i use a 4.44....

Edited July 1, 2014 by mlytle

[ray_]

Pffft!

 

 

Go buy a Honda!

[M3M3]

I am actually going to build a 3.64 for the street!  

[ray_]

I am actually going to build a 3.64 for the street!  

 

Let me know when I should get off your lawn!

 

 

Edit: 3.64 is good. That will give you a top speed of 161 at 7200. I'd like photographic evidence when you reach your goal!

Edited July 1, 2014 by ray_koke

[danco_]

I've had both ;-)

 

You want a 4.10, especially with a 2.3.

 

I have to agree with Ray on this. If you are sticking with 13" wheels, stay 3.91. But because you are going with 15"+ wheels, you should go with the 4.10. BMW as engineers are much smarter than me.

 

I actually asked Jeff Tighe (of TP Motorsports) in Costa Mesa about this exact question and the above answer is what he gave me. 

[M3M3]

wheel size is not relevant to a diff decision, other than the weight.....

what matters is TIRE size. most folk try to stick near the stock OD tire size, no matter what diameter wheels are used.

having run a 3.91, a 4.10 and 4.44 in my M2, i still think the 3.91 is the right street choice for near stock dia tires. 4.10 is ok, but lots of revs at highway speeds. that said, they all work well, ya just have to know what you want to use it for.

yes, a 4.10 was stock in the e30 M3, but the tire outside diameter on an M3 is bigger than those used on 2002's. a 3.91 puts the final gearing right about where the "bmw engineers" designed the E30 with an s14..and a much heavier car.

Edited July 1, 2014 by mlytle

[oh2ryan]

I have to agree with Ray on this. If you are sticking with 13" wheels, stay 3.91. But because you are going with 15"+ wheels, you should go with the 4.10. BMW as engineers are much smarter than me.

 

I actually asked Jeff Tighe (of TP Motorsports) in Costa Mesa about this exact question and the above answer is what he gave me. 

 

Yes, I am planning on running the 16x7/8 Alpinas. I have not installed them yet to see what tires I will run. Once I have suspension on I will pull the trigger on tires. I do want to stay around 2002 factory OD on the tires.

 

wheel size is not relevant to a diff decision.....

 

what matters is TIRE size.   most folk try to stick near the stock OD tire size, no matter what diameter wheels are used.

 

having run a 3.91, a 4.10 and 4.44 in my M2, i still think the 3.91 is the right street choice for near stock dia tires.  4.10 is ok, but lots of revs at highway speeds. that said, they all work well, ya just have to know what you want to use it for.

 

yes, a 4.10 was stock in the e30 M3, but the tire outside diameter on an M3 is bigger than those used on 2002's.   a 3.91 puts the final gearing right about where the "bmw engineers" designed the E30 with an s14..and a much heavier car.

 

Hmmmm, ok so Ill just stick with the 3.91 e21 LSD for now. Its been freshened up recently also. 

 

Thanks for the tip on the solid bushings in the TAs and using the adjusters. TBH, I had weld in kits on my E30 and they NEVER held between normal alignment intervals.Through rubber/ urethane/ and solid bushings. Maybe Ill just run the solid bushings and not do the weld in kit for now to avoid the headache. 

 

Ive seen IEs inserts for the rubber sub frame bushings. Therye pretty effective? Do you run them on your M2 on the track also? I jus do not want to have an unmatched set, solid up front/ rubber in the back and have it make the car even just slightly unbalanced. But I have zero previous 2002 experience so what do I know?