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Brake update...

Guest Anonymous

By Guest Anonymous,
in BMW 2002 and other '02

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Guest Anonymous

Guest Anonymous

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I had posted last week with some concerns about the age of many components of my brake system in anticipation of the drive to Texas next month. This weekend, I had a chance to pull the rear drums, and what I saw convinced me that the shoes, at least, have been replaced at some point in spite of my records that indicate they're original. The linings were at about 5mm (minimum is 3mm), and the shoes' metal portions looked far too clean to be original. The rubber on the wheel cylinders was supple with no cracks or indications of leaks. I'm confident running them 1500 miles or so.

My only remaining concern with the system is the master cylinder. While it's not original (it was replaced about 20k miles and 10-15 years ago), it's very rusty and the rubber seals on the top are cracked.

Whaddya think? Should I replace the m/c just to be safe, or am I likely OK?

Thanks,

-Dave

Colorado '71

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Guest Anonymous

Guest Anonymous

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Master cylinder is probably rusty because the rubber seals at the top and/or the plastic elbows are leaking or weeping fluid...they might bear replacing. Those elbows crack over time.

M/C's rarely fail totally and unexpectedly, especially on a street car. It's usually a gradual thing. I've had 'em last 100k, and had one go flabby at 30k. But if you're gonna replace, here are a couple of tricks...

1. When removing, make sure you don't wring off the threaded fitting--buy a flare nut wrench (10mm I think, but don't quote me) and loosen very gently, watching for the tubing starting to twist with the flare nut. If it does, soak with penetrating oil and let it sit for awhile.

2. When installing, place the M/C in position but don't tighten it up to the brake booster until you have all the rigid brake lines threaded part-way into their ports. Much easier and will avoid cross threading.

3. Before starting to bleed system, fill the M/C with fluid, put bunches of rags under the M/C and with the pipe fittings loose, pump the brake pedal several times 'till fluid dribbles around the threads. That way you won't force nearly as much air in your brake lines as if you started with a dry M/C--makes the bleeding much easier.

Cheers

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

Guest Anonymous

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I think I'm comfortable running the car down to Texas as it is -- there's no fluid loss (the fluid's only three-month-old ATE blue) and the fittings by the m/c are dry. I may, however, just order a new m/c and fittings to throw in the trunk to be on the safe side.

Thanks for all the help and tips!

-Dave

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