2002dean

What To Do About Stripped Engine Block?

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(edited)

Upon removing the air pump bracket I've found the lower bolt hole in the block where the lower timing cover is attached is stripped. The opposite side has no bolt and is filled with RTV which I suspect is stripped also. I should also note that the timing cover has had a JB weld material used to seal it and the oil pan has generous amounts of RTV used to stop oil leaks.

My original plan was to pull the engine and just reseal it. I now don't know what my options are with the latest discovery.

How should I go about fixing this?

 

Advice greatly appreciated.

Dean

Edited by 2002dean

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(edited)

For the bolt hole, you can use a heli-coil, or, my favorite solution, Time-serts.  The Timeserts are very thin walled, have a self-locking design and a flange on the outside surface that prevents them from going in too far.  They are made in all sorts of sizes so that the only thing you have to do is choose the correct one.  The repair will be permanent and you won't feel like it's a future problem just waiting to happen again.  Here is a link to their website for more info: http://www.timesert.com/index.html

 

IMO you can't go wrong with these.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by schoir

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(edited)

Thanks guys. I didn't know helicoil was for cast iron. I thought it was for aluminum thread repair. The timesert looks great. Any idea to the cost of a kit? I'm pretty sure it's a

8mm x 1.25 thread

 

I won't need to do this while the engine is in the car. I'm going to pull it, so I can do a thorough job resealing. I just need to sell a car in the garage so the 02 can take it over.

 

Dean

Edited by 2002dean

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The inserts themselves are only between $1 and $3 each, but if you don't have the installation tools, you have to get the whole kit and those run about $70 for a kit with all the tools and a few inserts.  You can get them from online auto parts stores or from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1812/dp/B001JK44LG

 

The counterboring tool makes for a very neat installation because the insert ends up with a flange that is flush with the surface.

 

Regards, Maurice.

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I too think the time-serts are the RIGHT way.

 

But a helicoil will work too...

 

t

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From the descriiption of what the overall sealing method is, better put the blinders on while resealing or you may be into quite a job growth situation.  That level of previous work may indicate more non-standard mechanical thrills once the pan is off.

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From the descriiption of what the overall sealing method is, better put the blinders on while resealing or you may be into quite a job growth situation.  That level of previous work may indicate more non-standard mechanical thrills once the pan is off.

 

The car seems to run well, strong and not blow oil. The plan is to reseal the engine along with a valve adjustment. I'll most likely have some oil control mods done to the oil pan, as I plan on tracking it. Otherwise I plan on no other engine work. I just want to make it reliable right now.

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My local machine shop rents out his timesert kit for about $10. If you take the block to a shop it should not be too expensive to get those stripped hoes repaired. --FB

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