engine and drivetrain Ok... first question from a newbie owner - suspension

[Guest Anonymous]

Just got my car, a 1970 '02. I've been going over it for a bit, reviewing what needs to be addressed, and the front end stands out like a sore thumb. The shocks have too much bounce for my liking. The strut top bearings need replacing. The bushings, tie rod ends and ball joints could stand to be done as well. And finally, the rotors are scored, and the pads should probably also be replaced.

So, that, to my novice eye, looks like a full front end overhaul. The question is this:

To minimize off-the-road time, would I be better off getting a second front subframe assembly, with crossmember, steering, idler and control arms, refurbishing the main components and bench-building a second, new assembly with new urethane bushings, tie rod assemblies, track rod, ball joints, etc.?

I imagine that that way I can drive the car as is, squeeky & bouncy, while I work on getting the new assembly ready for a swap. How difficult is a subframe swap with engine etc. in place?

Or am I overly concerned; can I replace all the components in question while everything is in place on the car, over the course of a weekend (without air tools, that is)?

[Guest Anonymous]

This is pretty basic mechanic. Get all the parts, remove the struts, change the inserts, and edo the bushings and ball-joints. You may need certain tools to make your life easier. A fork or any ball joint splitter, a big plumber wrench for the strut collar, a spring compressor to reinstall the springs and a bit of patience...

[Guest Anonymous]

...without the aid of air tools or a second set of hands. IMHO, it's actually easier to just replace all of it at the same time because then you can just take it all out without worrying about damaging the old parts, and throw all the nice shiny clean new bits in.

Get ahold of a manual (Haynes or factory) and review what it says to get a good idea of the task at hand. I had the benefit of watching somebody who knew what they were doing take care of this on another 2002 before I tackled mine...but it ain't brain surgery if you're methodical and have the right tools:

Spring compressor (to get at strut bearings)

Correct selection of wrenches and sockets (verify BEFORE taking your transportation apart)

Pickle fork and a smallish sledgehammer for releasing tie rods

Dish soap for installing new front radius rod bushings

Wire/zipties for holding up calipers

Maybe some stuff I'm forgetting...

It's really fairly simple remove-replace stuff here. If you are at all handy it can be done in a weekend.

Tim

'76 2002

'03 Golf

[Guest Anonymous]

you would have to support the engine from above with a hoist. it would just be messy to get back in... a lot of wrestling.

Matt

[Guest Anonymous]

Another 2002 person, hopefully one who has done this a time or two. Not that you can't figure it out yourself but it may be easier with two of you working on it. What corner of the world do you live in?

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

I'm in Oakland, CA, so hopefully one of the friendly locals can be bribed with beer or bourbon.

[Guest Anonymous]

Alright, after looking at your responses it looks like the subframe is staying in place.

I've reviewed the Haynes several times, had a good look at the pictures of the front end on my2002tii.com, and know that I have the tools needed (other than a pickle fork and a propane torch to get out the old bushings).

I've done suspension work on Subarus in the past, which really was nothing complex, but hopefully one of the locals will be willing to lend a helping hand on my first run at the '02. Are there any nuts/bolts in this assembly that are notorious for getting stuck or seized?

[Guest Anonymous]

Couple of things you might look at or do while you are in there.

How are your flexible brake lines? If you are going to replace them and can afford it now, just pull the lines off the calipers and get them out of the way.

How about the upper strut bearings? Do yours still have a little concave lip around them? Those should be changed out now while you have the struts pulled.

Also, if the strut inserts are original, be ready for a good amount of oil to pour out when you are releasing the top nut. If you are replacing them with new gas shocks do not need the oil in there, so drain it and spray clean the inside.

My calender is really full this weekend(family, soccer, SF GP bike race), but I may be available at least for phone or moral support since I am local to you.

[Guest Anonymous]

...I've used a vise to hold it while using a pipe wrench and maybe some heat...can't remember on the heat.

Tim

[Guest Anonymous]

Support the engine close enough to thread the engine mount bolts in, then once they're started, lower the rest of the way, and tighten everything up.

[Guest Anonymous]

The three which hold the steering arm to the bottom of the strut, easier when the struts are off the car. PB Blaster time. After that, the one nut which holds the ball joint to this arm. More PB Blaster. Make sure you get all the little washers and such around the upper strut bearing back in the right order. Good luck.

[Guest Anonymous]

On my old '75 the nut that held the ball joint to the bottom of the steering arm had disintegrated into a round rusty thing...no discernable edges/facets to speak of. Had to get medieval on it with a Dremel...now that took a while.

[Guest Anonymous]

Steve,

Thanks for the advice... It definitely looks like the strut top bearings will need to go. I haven't checked the brake lines yet, but I recall the PO mentioning that he replaced them fairly recently.

I think I just have to bite the bullet and order all these goods. The car's interior will have to look like crap a little while longer, but at least it will be driving nicely! Might I hit you up for help once I delve into this (won't be for another week or two, I suspect)?

[Guest Anonymous]

the bushings already installed are about $75 each.

If you buy new arms and new balljoints (along with the rest of your front end stuff), you can assemble the balljoint to the arm off the car (make sure you get new balljoint mounting hardware), and eliminate the hassle & labor of removing the old bushings and pressing in new ones. That way you have a big part of the lower suspension all ready to bolt right in - probably save a couple of hours off the time the front end is apart and eliminate any possibilty of bent or damaged control arms in the bargain.