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Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal


thinksound_mike

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my pedal box and replacing my clutch slave and master cylinders. Are there any tricks to getting the slave out? A gentle coercing with a hammer? It looks somewhat rusted in place. I sprayed it with WD40 and hoping that it will penetrate the area a little to get it moving. While under the car I didn't see much in the way of bolts holding it in. I just don't want to break the bracket on the transmission if I can avoid it. That would not be fun. The car is a 74 for reference. Thanks!

 

 

mike tunney

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DO NOT beat on it with a hammer!  You're taking a chance on breaking the aluminum casting that it passes through,and that's part of the transmission housing.  Couple of tricks...

 

1.  remove the circlips from both sides of the slave cyl so the penetrating oil will get into the space between cylinder and housing and so you can try coaxing it out from either direction.

2.  soak with a peneterating oil (WD 40 is NOT a penetrating oil,  use Kroil, Nut Buster etc) and let it sit. 

3.  Presuming you're not gonna reuse the cylinder, grab it with a big pair of arc joint pliers or a small pipe wrench and try twising it to break the corrosion between alluminum and iron.  and if that doesn't work...

4.  Use a propane torch or heat gun.  BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS!!!!  Watch where you point the torch/heat gun and where you set it down, have a friend with a fire extinguisher standing by, and have a large dripping wet towel/rag to put out any small fires.  Play the torch on the aluminum housing to expand it, then grab the cylinder with the pliers/pipe wrench and twist. 

 

Patience is the byword here.  Too much grunting and you're gonna be replacing the tranny, not just the slave cylinder.

 

And before installing the new one, clean out the bore where it goes, and smear the new slave cylinder with anti-seize compound where it fits into the tranny housing.  Then it'll come out easily next time.

 

cheers, and BE CAREFUL

mike

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I beat on it somewhat with a hammer. But heat is your friend. Spray with your choice of penetrating oil the night before a couple times, then get out your torch and heat up the area around the slave nice and good. Then try twisting or tapping it out. But FWIW, aluminum parts do break, so dont hit too hard. I got a little happy with the hammer on my lower timing cover...

 

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-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
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'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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thanks for tips guys. i'll let you know how it goes. work has been sporadic since i've been working outside in ny and the winter has been brutal this year. not many days that are above freezing and without snow to crawl under the car at this point. hoping the weather breaks soon so i can get back on the road. it's been too long!


I beat on it somewhat with a hammer. But heat is your friend. Spray with your choice of penetrating oil the night before a couple times, then get out your torch and heat up the area around the slave nice and good. Then try twisting or tapping it out. But FWIW, aluminum parts do break, so dont hit too hard. I got a little happy with the hammer on my lower timing cover...

 

IMG_1972.JPG

ouch! that's exactly what i don't want to happen. 

mike tunney

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  • 3 years later...

Look at Mike's instructions above.  This approach always works and you don't end up having to remove your tranny to have a chunk of it welded back on.  

On 2/24/2014 at 5:30 PM, mike said:

DO NOT beat on it with a hammer! 

 

BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

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23 minutes ago, RumRunner said:

his is a 2014 article but in Apr 2017 I am encountering the same issue.  I never saw an outcome on this if the individual was successful.  I am trying to get the slave cylinder out. It is a pain.

I got it out. I ended up soaking it for 2-3 days in PB Blaster (WD-40 did nothing). Once it was good and soaked, I removed the circlips and used a pipe wrench to spin the slave cylinder free. Once it could turn, a light tap with a hammer it popped right out. I didn't have to use a torch, although it might would have helped. If you don't have good circlip pliers, spend the $30 and get some. I spent way too much time messing around with a cheap pair from HF that wouldn't handle the clips. That was way more frustrating. Good luck!

mike tunney

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+1 on proper snap ring pliers... cheap ones will only frustrate you further.  

 

soak it.. get the cylinder to spin a bit, then a little more, then you can start coaxing it out.  This is not a job for the BFH. 

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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I'm not sure we'll find those on a SnapOn truck, Tom ?

 

But it they sure look like they'll get the job done!

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Some heat, too.  Propane torch is plenty- just get the aluminum transmission to expand, contract, expand, contract....

 

And soak it when you're not heating it.

 

Tapping (GENTLY) in all directions, too.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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