tii starts fine when cold but doesn't when warmed up

[Guest Anonymous]

it starts on 1st try everytime when cold after warming up it

turns over, no problem but won't idle it just dies. Someone

mentioned a problem with the warm-up regulator but have no

idea. Thanks for the input.

[Guest Anonymous]

is a piston looking thing in the back of the pump.

As water gets hot it expands a plunger, moving it

up. The top of the plunger has a big washer, when

it is down (engine cold) it presses against a lever

which in effect enriches the mixture. As it moves

up it frees the lever to its normal setting. So when

the car is warm there should be a gap between the

lever and washer. You can actually see this thing

move up as the car warms up. Make sure that the

car is actually reaching operating temp, there is

movement on the plunger and you get a gap. This

is in a nut shell.

Good luck

Michael

72 tii (Bacchus)

[Guest Anonymous]

is working properly. More precisely, on starts when the

engine is warm, the motor will run for a few seconds with the

rpms going up to 1500-2k then immediately drops to 0 killing

the motor. Any ideas? thanks a lot.

[Guest Anonymous]

This one is located next to the tuna can on top of

the throtle body. Just pull the 2 wire harness. It's

used on all starts and it is only supposed to last 8

secs max when really cold and about 4 secs at 65

F. It is possible that is stuck.

Most people bypass the system and install a

manual switch.

See if that makes a difference

Michael

72 tii

[Guest Anonymous]

It is possible that it runs fine at first because the

mixture is enriched, but once it leans out it

becomes too lean due to a vaccum leak

somewhere. Carefully (with a fire extinguisher

handy) spray some starting fluid around intake and

see if it makes a difference.

[Guest Anonymous]

I disconnected the cold start valve after warming the engine

up. Starts perfectly everytime but the cold start valve is brand

spanking new it's for a 320i though. So is there another

culprit up the line or the cold start is defective? thanks alot for

your help. Cort.

[Guest Anonymous]

injector was disconnected? If that's the case either

the injector or the trigger circuit for the injector is

bad (Can't tell you which, but I would suspect the

control unit). The injector normal position is

closed unless is energized. There is an aluminum

box in the engine compartment, left side of the

firewall that is the control for the injector (probably

hidden by the airbox) Neither one of my tii's has

one, wonder why?, both have a manual trigger. If I

remember right, I cut the two wires, got juice on

one from the fuse box and ran the other one to

earth on the inside, I installed a push button in the

middle of the earth one to complete circuit and

trigger the cold start manually. You can actually

hear it (clicking sound) Beware that if you do this

your tii will not be "stock" "original" etc.

Michael

72 tii

[Guest Anonymous]

From what your saying I should get a new relay or a sensor

as the cold start injector appears to be function as designed?

Stick with me as we're closing in on the solution. thanks, cort.

[Guest Anonymous]

You can either get that aluminum control unit or

bypass it with the manual switch, it's like having a

manual vs automatic choke, your choice.

Electricals are weak on a 30 year car, so IMO the

simpler the better,

good luck

Michael

[Guest Anonymous]

for my push button. Push the button and turn the key- when it fires let off. Starts this way everytime. Just a little bump when warm- vrooooom

[Guest Anonymous]

The start valve is controlled by 1) the Time/Temp Switch in the coolant hose manifold near the front of the head and 2) the Time Switch on the firewall. It's pretty easy to test these using the procedure in the Repair Manual, and it's easy to replace either unit or to repair the wiring. The main hurdle is the cost of a new Time Switch, if that is needed. I sell rebuilt ones for much less than new.

The start valve should fire for one second on a warm start.