other Input Requested On '72 Purchase

[Zed]

Hi all--

 

I'm a former 2002 owner who badly regrets selling my '75.  I'm checking out a local car that is listed as a 1972.  There are a couple things that mystify me about the photos, and I'm hoping to get some clarification from folks here.

 

First, what are those posts just above the rear bumper?  I've seen reflectors mounted there on some cars, but never anything like this.  Also, the car appears to have a '74-75 grill.  What's going on there?  Its my understanding that the two grills are not interchangeable so I'm worried this indicates an accident and new front clip.

 

Also, that third brake light obviously has to go.  Odds it can be pulled without major bodywork to the trunk lid?

 

Finally, any input on the going rate for a '72 in decent mechanical condition, with 5sp upgrade, but with unknown mileage and possibly some minor rust?

 

Thanks a bunch, folks.  Hopefully I'll get back in the community.

 

 

[Mike87]

No, that grill is just the original that has been painted. The plastic ones (74-76) do not have the body color parts on the nose.

[jrkoupe]

those rearward projections on rear panel:

 

a few cars had a " jet propulsion " option....kind of like a turbine,.....those pipes are just for gases to escape.

 

were seats upgraded as well???.....looks like it.

Edited January 15, 2014 by jrkoupe

[jgerock]

3rd brake light may be from E30.

 

Rear tubes possibly from bike rack?  Or maybe 007 oil squirters/machine guns?

 

Good grief.  WTH is going on.

Edited January 15, 2014 by jgerock

[13]

Wouldn't say the third tail light will be huge body work but it's drilled in Atleast one spot for the wires to attach to the light. It would be a simple removal, patch weld a piece of steel in, grind smooth, touch up with filler if needed, and reprint. Maybe $250-300 at a shop tops. Even less if you did the prep work yourself.

Not a clue as to what those things are above the rear bumper but they look crappy, maybe they are mounts for a different bumper.

Mike87 is correct, it is year correct just painted.

I would be poking around the rear strut mounts in the trunk and seeing what might be rusting out underneath. Also check the fluids and all that mechanical stuff just to get an idea if the dude does maintenance.

[mavhh]

Rear protrusions could be parking sensors? Like these:

http://mitsubishi-l200-longbed.sgpetch.co.uk/admin/system-content/accessory_images/Mitsubishi/L200%20Double%20Cab/Rear_Parking_Sensors_large.jpg

Edited January 15, 2014 by mavhh

[Mike Self]

Whatever those jet exhausts/machine guns/oil dispensers are on the rear body panel, they can be removed and neatly covered up by reinstalling the original rear reflectors.  

 

And even though the car has CA plates, it may have come from Somewhere Else where the tinworm lurks, so check the board's archives for where to look for rust, both cosmetic and structural.  

 

As for the third brake light, it does look to have come from an E30 convertible.  While not the most elegant solution to enhanced brake lights, roundie brake lights aren't the brightest things in the world, so you might want to leave it on, at least for now.  A good MIG welder can fill in a fairly good-sized (1/4 to 3/8") hole with just weld (back with a piece of copper), then grind down and paint.  Or you could always put a radio antenna in the hole ;-)...don't laugh, that was the recommendation in the early days ('68-69) if your '02 had a sunroof, due to the hazard of drilling into the sunroof drain hose when mounting a front pillar antenna.

 

cheers, and good luck.  Hope it checks out.

 

mike

[Mark92131]

Zed:

 

Looks like a pretty solid local San Diego car, (La Jolla Symbolic license plate frames are old school).  The pieces on the back panel look like an attempt to cover the holes left by the rear reflectors, (see picture).  

 

Good luck with your purchase.

 

Mark92131

[02fanatic]

3rd brake light may be from E30.

 

Rear tubes possibly from bike rack?  Or maybe 007 oil squirters/machine guns?

 

Good grief.  WTH is going on.

 

Ha!  My thought exactly!

[bmwfan]

I bought a 72 2002 last fall. Body has some, but minor rust issues in non critical areas. Interior 7/10 except for the dash cracks. Dash 2/10. Working sun roof, engine with dual Makuni 44 carbs, header, tii distributer, 3.63 LSD, unknown cam grind. 4 speed trans. Volvo front disc brakes and 320 I rear 250 drums, tii brake master cyl. Stage 2 springs, sway bars. But suspension needs new bushings, center link and tie rods.

Car sat in dry storage from 1998 till I bought it. Needed a lot of TLC with body, interior and tune up, carb cleaning and adjustments to get it running right. It does run very strong.

Paint is a cheap re spray but looks great at 5 feet. Chrome bottle caps rusty, needed new tires, rear wheel cyl leaking, rear wheel bearing seal leaking. Needed new electric fuel pump, then a fuel pressure regulator to keep the carbs from flooding.

There will always be something that needs attention or repaired/ replaced it seems. But this is just bonding with your car.

I paid $10.500.00 probably at the high end. But a decent 72-73 epically with a sunroof is hard to find, at least for me. I spent around 5 months looking. DO NOT BUY IF AT ALL POSSIBLE WITHOUT LOOKING AT THE CAR IN PERSON. Take a bright flash light and work clothes. Look everywhere under car, pull out back seat, pull up carpet ECT.... Check for oil coolent leaks, include trans and diff.

Edited January 16, 2014 by bmwfan

[jgerock]

Ha!  My thought exactly!

John - an explanation is required.  When I tried replying during lunch today, it took (3) times to post (ended up in the same message, so I deleted the 2nd two).  I'm going to blame the Windows update "push" since I had (5) updates today  .

[Zed]

Checked out the car this afternoon.  The winner is . . . parking sensors!  Run through the reflector holes so should not be a problem to take out.  Car is a pretty good driver and has been well cared for.  Other than a little bubbling in the lower door panels, this is the only rust.  Can anybody weigh in on what it will take to fix?  The paint's in pretty good shape still, so a bodyshop should be able to blend a spot fix.

 

trunk lid

 

 

front of hood

 

[John_in_VA]

Rust in the door, trunk & hood seams can be a bear to completely eliminate.  Factor in the price of replacements.

[LJtii]

If it were me, I would replace the deck lid rather than attempt to fix the rust in it. Check with Carl at La Jolla Independent as on the license plate frame.

[saaron]

My car developed similar rust in the hood and trunk lid, a few years after I bought it.  

 

When I went to repaint the car, the advice I received was "buy a new hood and trunk" prior to repainting.  The way the hood and trunk are made (from what I understand) makes it impossible to get rid of rust in that spot.  You essentially can cover it up, but the corrosion starts from the inside out.  It will come back, in other words.

 

The way it was explained to me is that the panel is made in such a way that layers of metal are wrapped around each other along the edges of the panel, moisture gets in there, rust begins, and then works its way out.  

 

I put new front fenders on it prior to painting, too.  It's been 22 years and those "new" panels have not rusted - they still look good.  You can still get the panels from BMW, so that's cool.

 

Rust under the car (in the rockers, front frame rails, near the pedal box, and rear wheel well shock mount area) is a much bigger deal.  I don't think you can get a new nose panel for that year, either.  Do what you can to make sure it is OK underneath, and a clean nose panel would be a plus.  

 

Scott