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'64 1800Ti Barn Find - Update!


Mike_B

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I finally get to post an update for the 1800Ti.  It's been literally a couple years since I last posted a significant update on the car.  In that time its going from being back on it's wheels for our move to a new house back up on to a cart and stripped down to a shell for final rust repair and prep for paint.  A family of mice had taken up residence in the headliner and it was a hazmat job pulling that thing down!  I ended up with an asthma attack that put me down for a couple days!  I was surprised to see a 3/4" thick jute pad above the headliner.  Mice loved it!  

 

Anyway got the car stripped down.  Took a ton of photos and put all the parts in labeled bags (Jim Gerock would be proud!) and welded up a cart to roll the shell around the garage.  It sure is easier moving it around un-loaded.  Anyway on to the photos...

 

Right after the move to the new house

 

033.JPG

 

In its current state 

 

stripped+shell+1.JPG

 

There a BUNCH of spot welds to drill out to remove the nose, but it had to be done to preserve the metal underneath so the new nose could be attached.

 

stripped+nose+2.JPG

 

A bit of surface rust from a leaky brake fluid reservoir (keep that stuff off paint!).  It also shows the brackets for the Ti intake plenum/filter assembly.

 

driver+shock+tower+rust.JPG

 

Tiny little battery tray for the original 6v battery, but I found a nice Odyssey PC925 that fits nicely in the spot so I think it will stay.  I debated moving things to the trunk but I don't think it's necessary and it will help keep things stockish in the engine bay.

 

battery+tray.JPG

 

PC925LMJ.jpg

 

 

Passenger side is much cleaner.

 

passenger+strut+tower.JPG

 

The rockers are incredibly clean.  I was dreading the removal of the stainless covers to see what was beneath, but it looked great.  I was surprised to see it was painted black as opposed to the original silver paint.  Some rust on the pinch weld at the front passenger door.  It should clean up with a flap wheel.

 

rust+pinch+weld+right+front+door.JPG

 

A bit of rust hidden by the front fender (passenger side).  I think I may have to make up a small patch for this piece.

 

rust+shell+rocker.JPG

 

Dash will be covered with 3M Di-Noc Teak.  Its a really good match for the stock faux-wood.

 

stripped+dash.JPG

 

Replacement nose needed a bit of hammer / dolly work around the kidney.  It will need some work to remove the surface rust from years of storage.  Fitted with one of my horded 10-slat grills.

 

new+nose+with+kidney.JPG

 

new+nose.JPG

 

Other than slowing cleaning up the body, I've been in accumulation mode.  I have pretty much everything to make this complete.  It's a strange feeling to be search Ebay, German Ebay and the forums and really not finding anything that I need.  Now, where can I buy a month of un-interrupted time?

 

The engine is currently being put together and it should be a runner.  The head was sent to CP so they could come up with custom pistons for the M10 head and 95mm S14 Evo block.

 

I got a garage heater for Christmas so hopefully I'll be able to spend a bit more time in the shop to keep this rolling!

 

 

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Mike - tricky photo placement of that engine stand.  At first, I thought you had used it support the entire front of the car but now see the casters and frame.

 

Are you using a standard, off-the-shelf spot weld cutter?

Jim

Jim Gerock

Ruby Red 73tii built 5/30/73 "Celeste"

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Ha! Just trying to find a spot for the engine stand to get it out of the way.

I used a spot weld cutter from TP Tools - http://www.tptools.com/3and8-Spot-Weld-Cutter-High-Speed-Steel,3402.html?b=s*Spot+weld+cutter. It has spring loaded pilot to keep it centered, but it still walks if don't make a good spot with a center punch. It was also a bit difficult to use where the spot weld was not in a completely flat location. High pressure and low speed seemed to work the best.

I also had to hack most of the nose away so I could get the drill/cutter access to the welds. It was interesting to see how much debris was trapped in the nose. I got about three good sized dust pans of damp debris when it was all said and done. No wonder the noses rot out on these things!

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Ryan - 

 

They are Ti/SA wheels (14 x 6) with 195-60 rubber.  I was very lucky that they came with the car as they are pretty hard to come by.  

 

Occasionally a set pop up on German Ebay from time to time.  A rough set went for a bit over $1k back in December.

 

Before refinishing... 

 

BMW1800WideWheels.JPG

 

 

After...

 

IMG_6052.JPG

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I attempted some rust removal from the nose piece to address the flash/surface rust, but I have a feeling it's just going to have to be media blasted. I just can't reach all the parts with my sander/grinder that I need to make the piece clean.

I was able to fit the nose. It's quite an improvement over the bent up rusty piece that was removed. I have some tweeking to do to make it fit properly, but it was pretty close right off the bat.

P1070218.jpg

P1070219.jpg

Edited by Mike_B
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Looks great Mike    Before you weld you might take a few moments just to stick the fenders on it and make sure everything lines up ok.   Moving right along now!    Hurry and you can come to Mid America with Martin and I.    Us NK guys are gonna crash the party this year  :)

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Thanks for the tip about the fenders!  I would have welded the darn thing up and been pulling my hair out if there were any issues.

 

Right now I'm struggling with the top part fitting tight and having a 1/2" gap at the flanges along the lower parts of the panel.  I'll have to take a closer look and see what's going on...

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