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Photo Of Distributor In Place?


prezucha

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I just picked up a '67 1600-2 and am trying to set timing.  The mushroom vacuum cap is hitting the firewall when I turn the distributor to time it.  Is my distributor 180 degrees out of position?  I read somewhere that the mushroom cap should be located somewhat over the lower part of the back of the valve cover... Does someone have a photo of the correct position of the distributor?  When the engine is at TDC, the rotor number 1 wire points to the firewall area so this seems to be correct but the mushroom cap is very near the firewall... thanks!

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Thanks Chamoix!  My engine runs ok when I have the distributor turned clockwise from yours with the mushroom cap up against the firewall.  The timing mark is WAY advanced by 25-30 degrees if I am reading it right.  I do not have a bell housing opening unless it is VERY well hidden.  On the pulley there are the TDC marks indicated on both sides of the pulley.  There is a small mark a little left of these marks looking down at pulley from inside engine bay.  This is the 3 degree BTDC mark.  I am not telling you this as you all know all this but I am just clarifying what I am doing and my understanding.  The timing light shows the mark WAY right of the TDC mark.  If I adjust my timing light advance degrees, as I move the degrees up the mark moves closer to the TDC mark.  At the TDC mark, the timing light shows about 30 degrees!  I read this as I need to turn the distributor counter clockwise to advance the timing.  The car runs worse and worse as I do this.  If I shut the car off and turn it to a position like yours and try and start the car, it coughs and really seems like it wants to turn the wrong direction if this makes sense.  It seems like the spark is way before TDC and trying to push the pistons in the wrong way.  I believe I can hurt the engine if timing is too advanced, no?  Thanks for any input...

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Thanks for the input.  Scary to do this but I thought possibly the distributor was off a gear or more.  How do you know when it's right?  Or doesn't it really matter.  I loosened the distributor bolt earlier and tried pulling it up but it didn't budge.  I believe you have to pull up a bit, and then turn counter clockwise 1" or 1/4 turn or something to be able to pull it out.  I'm getting a Haynes manual in a few days and this should help a lot.  So, does turning it 90 degrees have any affect besides simply the physical position of the distributor?  Do I have to be careful how far I advance the timing?  Not to hurt the engine?  I am getting ALL new ignition parts Wed which I will install with proper gaps, etc.  Can a 6v car like mine use a 12v coil?  Never thought of that when I ordered it...  Thanks so much!  Paul

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Thanks HBChris!  I was thinking about this this morning and kind of thought that it wouldn't matter.  I will try and move it 90 degrees counterclockwise.  A few days ago I tried to pull out the distributor but it wouldn't budge at all.  I read that I need to pull it up so that the gears no longer are engaged and then turn left a bit to pull up.  How much does it have to move up to have gears disengage?  I hardly see any movement at all!  It turns freely so I imagine it's not rusted in somehow...  I don't want to force it!  My Haynes manual arrives today so that should have a clear description of what to do.  Does the car have to be TDC to do it?

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Mark where your dizzy points now and where the rotor is pointing, you need to maintain this same relationship. Both need to move 90 degrees counter clockwise. Pull up on rotor shaft while twisting it slightly, I think to the left and it will lift out. Insert it the same way, give it room to return to 90 degrees after inserting.

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Thanks HBChris.  I figured if I set engine number 1 cylinder to TDC then I know the rotor position for number 1 cylinder has to point the to scratch mark on the base of the distributor housing.  BUT, I cannot free the distributor!  The two 10mm nuts are very loose and dizzy turns freely.  It does not come up at all.  Is there another locking holding it down but allows it to rotate?  Thanks!  Oh, just found Double02, a huge parts supplier here in the Bay Area, used and new, and if they don't have it and it exists somewhere, they can get it.  Of course the kidney grill center I need is NLA...  

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Yes, weird!  Just the bolt that secures the clamp for distributor timing adjustment is needed to loosen, correct?  The dizzy turns freely.  I do not want to pry on it...  I may wait a few weeks until a local mechanic knowledgeable about these cars returns from vacation...  I'll try again tomorrow. Thanks HBChris!

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Likely the O-ring is stuck. I would pull on the body -  the shaft and gear will follow. You may need to pry it a bit with some wood. AS to the pulley marks, the 3 deg notch is for static timing; i.e., with the engine off. If you have a timing light, you'll need to add another mark around 33 deg., or get a newer timing light that allows electronic setting. There are numerous threads on how to do this.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally the distributor came out!  I did use a screwdriver to pry gently and wiggled and pried and wiggled and it finally came out!  When I removed the o-ring, which was dry and just fell apart, the distributor housing was cracked all the way around!  Probably the reason the PO couldn't get it to run right.  My distributor is number 0231115048.  I picked up another that may have come from a '68 but the last digit is a 5 which in my manual says it is from a 2002.  Will this work in my car?  I installed it and it runs but are there differences?  Thanks all who responded!  Is anyone knowledgeable about these cars in the Alameda, area willing to come take a look?  I can return the favor in the way of any handyman services :)  Paul

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