steering and suspension Concave Strut Washer...need Help

[Beach_Bum]

So I spent the last couple days refreshing my front suspension. I installed new strut bearings purchased from Pelican (forgot the brand, and threw the box away already), and also installed fixed camber plates from IE.  I got it all back together, only to find that the steering is binding after turning. I've taken one side back apart to check the concave washer and below is what I've found. Please help me clarify a few things before I put it all back together.

 

It looks like the strut bearing is rubbing heavily on the spring cap:

 

 

Which side should be facing up (towards the strut bearing), Picture A or Picture B? I originally had Picture A facing up.

 

Picture A:

 

Picture B:

 

This is the bottom of the strut bearing with side B facing up. Is this washer even big enough for the bearing, or do I need a new washer? This is not how I originally had it installed. I had the other side facing up.

 

Edited January 3, 2014 by Beach_Bum

[AceAndrew]

Hi Beach Bum,  you should find everything you need in a thread found a further down the page.

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/147334-strut-spring-cup-question/

 

Your image (A) is the correct orientation.  That little guy isn't as much as a washer as a cup to retain the bearing grease on the original open bearings.  Since you've replaced the strut mount with one that uses a sealed bearing that cup is technically not needed (see #4 below), the actual spacing is left up to the other washers (#2 & #3).

 

 

 

Also quoting myself from here ......  http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page-2

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We were reusing the upper spring perches (making sure they weren't mushroomed) so the upper assembly had to come apart. Most common reason people will get ticking in the corners or going over bumps with their newly refurbished suspension is because they do NOT leave enough space between the upper spring perch and the strut bearing, These need to be completely isolated from each other because as the strut bearing is bolted to the body shell and remains stationary, the upper spring perch twists as you twist the steering wheel. If you do not have enough spacing between two plates (washers) then they will bind with eachother resulting in the clunking/banging. This also holds true for adjustable camber plates.





The fixed camber plates go between the strut bearing and the body shell, it relocated the upper spring perch in-board. The plate and perch didn't want to cooperate very well and so a bench vice was needed to press them together.
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Edited January 3, 2014 by AceAndrew

[Beach_Bum]

Hi Beach Bum,  you should find everything you need in a thread found a further down the page.

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/147334-strut-spring-cup-question/

 

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Thanks Andrew! I'll give your way a try and report back.

Edited January 3, 2014 by Beach_Bum

[Buckeye]

The concave side of sealing ring must face towards the support bearing.

The clear ring on top of top spring perch is caused by not having proper clearance between bottom of support bearing and top of the perch

Your new support bearing is most likely made by INA and I assume it has seald bearing inside. The original support bearing at least on mine was not sealed. That cancave ring in your picture is just bearing dust cover.

Actual concave sealing ring almost looks like dust cover ring but is more sturdy and it's thickness should be of thickness of penny. Ask me how I know this. You should have clearance of 1-2mm between support bearing bottom and top perch When everything assembled properly and torqued

Attached front spring diagram (not my pic, credit to c.d.)

[AceAndrew]

Thanks Andrew! I'll give your way a try and report back.

 

No problem, good luck.  As mentioned in the first link, there's been a recent rash of improperly sized bearings.

[xferboy]

If it's not a bmw part, I had mine bind when put together with the correct parts in the correct order.  There is too much material on the rubber bottom side below the bearing surface.  Picture #4, take out the cup, measure from the top (the way it's sitting) to the bearing. 

 

Then the other one I got (same brand, boxed vs bagged) worked ok, but the fit and finish wasn't as good.  I bought 2 new BMW ones.  It was a cheap lesson.

 

Put a one or 2 more #2 washers in. or get BMW strut mounts.

 

Just my experience

[AceAndrew]

If it's not a bmw part, I had mine bind when put together with the correct parts in the correct order.  There is too much material on the rubber bottom side below the bearing surface.  Picture #4, take out the cup, measure from the top (the way it's sitting) to the bearing. 

 

Then the other one I got (same brand, boxed vs bagged) worked ok, but the fit and finish wasn't as good.  I bought 2 new BMW ones.  It was a cheap lesson.

 

Put a one or 2 more #2 washers in. or get BMW strut mounts.

 

Just my experience

 

Sorry, but the same problem can be had with OEM strut mounts, sounds like you were fortunate.  As I mentioned earlier the upper spring perch will also start to mushroom with age and abuse negating the washers.

[jgerock]

Test fit the cupped washer inside the bottom of the strut bearing before assembly.  You might have to grind the edges of the washer.

[Beach_Bum]

OK, took everything apart and reassembled the washers according to Andrew's picture. Took her out for a test drive and happy to report that everything is working well!

 

Thanks again for everyone's help.

[TodB]

Resurecting this thread as I have the same binding issue. Anyone have the part # for the concave washer? Mine's either missing or flattened out. 

[Stevenc22]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-tech-parts/dust-sealing-gasket-priced-each/31331110196~ham/

[halboyles]

Here you go.

[halboyles]

Please note that the workshop manual shows a different installation order than the parts manual for the "large diameter washer" and the concave washer, "sealing ring".

[TodB]

You guys rock!

[halboyles]

Aaaand, just to clear muddy the waters a little more here are the parts you get if you order those three numbers from BMW.  Note carefully the placement of the parts in the Parts Manual and the confusing placement of the two "large diameter washers" in the Workshop Manual.  The Parts Manual shows two different large washers, #7 and #11, while the Workshop Manual suggests they are the same.