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Heater Box To Cowl Seal Material?


gregmharrison

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DO NOT use household caulking--it'll either eventually harden and cause leaks, or it'll stick so tightly you'll never get the heater box out intact--and the subsequent owner will curse you forever.

 

Closed cell foam tape will work well if the sheet metal is in good shape (no rust or rust pits in the metal).  If the metal was rusty and left pits after you cleaned it up and painted, then I'd use strip caulk (AKA Dum-dum).  It'll fill in the pits better than the tape and will remain flexible (nearly) forever.

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I don't like using any type of foam for these applications (heater box, gas tank, etc.) due to the possibility of trapping moisture and creating more rust.  Strip calk application has no seams or voids yet remains flexible, as Mike mentioned. 

Edited by nbcbird
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I used Butyl Putty Tape and it worked very well.  Stays flexible and doesn't crack.  You can get it a Home Depot or an RV store.

 

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htm

--Scott

1985 318i (My First); 1996 535i (Loved it/sold it); 1999 323is (My kid likes'em too); 2003 325i (BMW Buy Back)

2005 530i (Best Ride Ever); 2007 x5 (Loved the look, but not the maintenance); 1976 2002 (Bitch'in ride)

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You need to get closed cell foam, which has no visible air holes. I would look for the square or rectangular shape myself. Once its snugged down, I don't see it letting much moisture through. I'd be concerned about getting strip caulk to squish down evenly around the heater flange, not to mention getting it off of moving it around. I've used it in other applications where I could press the parts together.

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