engine and drivetrain New Engine!... Smokes...

[Parkertii]

How old is the gas in the tank?

i doubt it is the gas, a few days old at most.

[mikebontoft]

Whatever is past the usable powerband in my opinion.

While I suspect you do have an issue, you'll be surprised at how long residual oil will burn for. Go for a spirited drive this weekend and see how she does.

[M3M3]

edit: not sure why brake fluid was mentioned as a possible cause... 

because brake fluid burns white, which was original color claimed for the smoke.  and when the brake MC goes and dumps fluid in the booster, the engine vacuum sucks it up into the intake on decel...burning white.

[AceAndrew]

OP your best bet is to follow break-in instructions given to you by the piston supplier.

Edited December 28, 2013 by AceAndrew

[mikebontoft]

because brake fluid burns white, which was original color claimed for the smoke. and when the brake MC goes and dumps fluid in the booster, the engine vacuum sucks it up into the intake on decel...burning white.

Alright that's fair. Is that somehow common on these? I just thought it interesting to mention as a possible cause right after an engine rebuild.

[Parkertii]

because brake fluid burns white, which was original color claimed for the smoke.  and when the brake MC goes and dumps fluid in the booster, the engine vacuum sucks it up into the intake on decel...burning white.

i dont recall posting that the smoke was white. but in his defense i didn't mention a color of smoke in the original post. so he was just stating possible scenarios that would cause it to smoke

 Thanks for all the help guys. ill take it for a "spirited" a drive tomorrow and see if i can come up with any new results. 

[LimeySteve]

On my 1st attempt with my new engine I had excessive smoking , it turned out the oil control rings had too large gap & were no good, 2nd engine different rings not a whisper of smoke , I believe they were Hastings rings with too larger gap on oil rings, no one usually checks oil rings !My car was akin to James Bond smoke screen on decelleration on the Freeway , burned an excessive amount of oil in the 1st 500 miles. MkII rebuild & runs sweet. 

[jgerock]

Can you look at the valve seals to see what color they are? I believe the original style is black and the newer style is green. The valve guides require machining to use the newer seals. In either case, the seals may get damaged when pushing them over the end of the valve tip.

I also wonder about the rings. How familiar was the machine shop with rebuilding M10 engines?

Sorry you are having issues.

[M3M3]

 

Alright that's fair. Is that somehow common on these? I just thought it interesting to mention as a possible cause right after an engine rebuild.

 

 

with no history provided on the car or list of other things done or not done when the engine was out....anything is possible on a 40yo car.  

 

gotta toss out many options with internet diagnosis since you never have the whole picture.

Edited December 28, 2013 by mlytle

[kbmb02]

Plenty of things to check per various posts.

 

I assembled the bottom end while the machine shop completed the top end.

 

Was it obvious / did you confirm the second ring was installed with the correct side up? -KB

[Hans]

Was the shop who did the head assembly familiar with BMW? Perhaps another guru can explain the difference/interchangeability between old/new style guides and seals. But I wonder if that's your problem. I think you can view the seals thru the springs to see if they are all fully seated. BMW engines run at very tight and precise clearances. Machine shops used to rebuilding US taxi motors may not be a good choice. I'd still do the compression test to see what the rings are doing. You might as well drive it a bit, monitor oil consumption and hope its rings bedding in. As to break-in, I'd keep it below 4000rpm for the first 500 - 1000miles.

[Parkertii]

Plenty of things to check per various posts.

 

 

Was it obvious / did you confirm the second ring was installed with the correct side up? -KB

 

Dammit, i think that we have a winner. This is the first time i have rebuild a engine and from the looks of it i have the second ring installed incorrectly. take a look for yourself and let me know what you think.....

At least i made certain to take a incredible amount of photos while i worked to insure that when i made a mistake i would be able to find it more easily. Let me know what you think about this ring....

If i need to tear into the motor to flip the ring, is it likely that i will need to take the block back to the machine shop to have it re honed? 

Edited December 29, 2013 by Parkertii

[jgerock]

Did you keep the instructions for the rings (if they were purchased separately)?

 

I'd have to consult with my cat Lotus before answering any more questions about rings.

[pilotnbr1]

Alright that's fair. Is that somehow common on these? I just thought it interesting to mention as a possible cause right after an engine rebuild.

Always prudent to suggest/consider all the possibilities- especially when diagnosing over the internet. 

 

MC seals could have dried out or during the rebuild something got tweaked... 

 

As for the OP I think a look at your plugs would be a worthwhile way to spend a few minutes. IF you have more time and the equipment a compression test would answer even more...

 

How about calling the machine shop with a few questions?

Edited December 29, 2013 by pilotnbr1

[Hans]

I'd be tempted to just to pull the pistons out with the block in the car. I doubt you've driven far enough to make a difference. If that's your problem.