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New Engine!... Smokes...


Parkertii

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I recently rebuilt the engine on my 1974 tii and am having some possible issues with smoking. 

The engine smoked quite a bit all the time for the first 50 miles or so that i drove it but seems to have gotten a little better.

i am now at around 100 miles since rebuilding and while the engine runs great when i first start it, and great when driving. However, once it warms up i am experiencing a embarrassing amount of smoke while idling. Once the car is to operating temp if i get stuck at a stop light for more than 15 seconds it starts to smoke  and gradually gets worse. If i idle for 30 seconds or more it escalates to a embarrassing amount. As soon as i start to accelerate again it lets out a one very large puff of smoke and then is fine again(smoke free) until i again stop for a short period of time. The smoke seems to be burning mostly oil as far as i can tell and only does so once hot. 

 

Here is a overview of most of the work that i can remember without looking at my records

completely rebuilt the bottom end,

new pistons,

New rings

balanced rods,

All New bearings

New crankshaft

New timing chain

 

had a machine shop rebuild the head

new valves

new valve guides and seals 

ect....

 

had the injection system built at the same time by fairchild ind.

I have also tuned the fuel mixture in the tuna can but i think it is still slightly off...

 

Since installing the motor i have also 

timed ignition,

New Spark Plugs,

New wires

New rotor

Crane fireball ignition

 

Would the smoke that i am seeing after around 100 miles of driving be related to the piston rings not yet seating? Or would this be a indicator of additional problems as it seems to only smoke after 15 seconds of idle, and only once warm. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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Hi,

  so what does the smoke smell like?

pancakes and syrup,

or acrid and foul bitter taste.

  the first would indicate coolant burning,

the second would indicate brake fluid,

both smoke white.

 the coolant many be from a bad head or 

a loose or untorqued head gasket.

 the brake fluid would be coming from the

booster through the vacuum line.

retorque the head to 62ft-lbs hot.

keep a watch on the brake fluid level.

check each spark plug for a washed 

appearance and if you find one clean

one that may be the cylinder burning

the fluid.

good luck,

keep us informed, i always check my posts.

stone 

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i think i have ruled out the possibility of coolant due to no loss of fluid, no "cottage cheese" looking buildup in the valve cover, the smoke doesnt smell sweet at all, and i have no loss of coolant. I have also not had any loss of brake fluid either. The smoke has a very slight blue hue to it and smells light burnt oil if anything.

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It sounds a bit excessive. Assuming your piston to bore clearances were good, what about valve seals? If memory serves, there are old and new style seals; old and new style guides. And the seals have to be banged on there. You may want to do a compression test to rule out rings.

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What is your break in procedure?  What did the machine shop do to the block?  Did they have the pistons in hand?

When driving i have made sure to vary the RPMs, but mainly staying below the 4000 mark. Ill take it to right around 4000 and then let it slow to around 2-3000 rpm after 10 or so seconds at 4000. Then repeat always making sure to vary the RPM. the machine shop had all of my parts, the pistons, bearings, rods everything. It has been several months since the machine shop had the block but i do know that the block was honed, pistons and rings were checked for the correct tolerances. Ill also attach a few pictures of the block that shows a bit of the work.

post-39609-0-25312300-1388202658_thumb.j

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It sounds a bit excessive. Assuming your piston to bore clearances were good, what about valve seals? If memory serves, there are old and new style seals; old and new style guides. And the seals have to be banged on there. You may want to do a compression test to rule out rings.

I assembled the bottom end while the machine shop completed the top end. I do know that the valves, guides, and seals were all replaced  though. here are a few photos of the head

post-39609-0-69923200-1388203056_thumb.j

post-39609-0-78287900-1388203091_thumb.j

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drive it hard and see what it does. Gentle breaking in leads to a...lesser engine.

I would suspect valve seals or a vacuum line hooked up incorrectly!

edit: not sure why brake fluid was mentioned as a possible cause... but if your smoke has a blue tint to it, it's oil.

Mike, i've read mixed reviews on breaking in a motor hard "drive it like you stole it" vs taking it somewhat easy for the first while. While you seem to suggest to break it in hard, is there anything that you would suggest avoiding... such as taking it close to readline? 

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Mike, i've read mixed reviews on breaking in a motor hard "drive it like you stole it" vs taking it somewhat easy for the first while. While you seem to suggest to break it in hard, is there anything that you would suggest avoiding... such as taking it close to readline?

Don't push it too hard. But don't baby it. Drive it like you will. It promotes better ring sealing.

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